Agreed, great finish on the rust. Shows proper observation and reproduction of the real object!
D
Deleted member 7181
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Thanks all.
Like I said I'm really happy myself, but it's always good to hear from more experienced modellers. I guess all those years of grinding and chopping out the real thing are proving useful after all
Like I said I'm really happy myself, but it's always good to hear from more experienced modellers. I guess all those years of grinding and chopping out the real thing are proving useful after all
D
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Thanks Andy.
Steve Jones
Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
Ooooh! That's nice. Wonderful work all round. I look forward to seeing more of your stunning work.
D
Deleted member 7181
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Thanks Steve, that's very kind of you.
Being back at work has blown me out though so probably won't be much progress this week!
Being back at work has blown me out though so probably won't be much progress this week!
D
Deleted member 7181
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Squeezed a bit of bench time in between power naps today and everything is now fitted to the chassis. Most of it is just in black primer, and for the most part will stay that way, but some detail painting and weathering will follow.
With so many parts to the rear suspension I can't guarantee all wheels will touch the ground. However the rear axles aren't actually glued to the springs yet, just held in place by several link rods, so there's a tiny bit of wriggle room if it's cocking one leg in the air.
Or I'll sink it into some mud
With that part done I moved onto the cargo area. Unsurprisingly for this kit the deck and frame are made up of several parts, and I managed to twist the flimsy deck whilst cleaning up the sprue scars. So it got taped down to a tile to get the twist out, then some weight was added after fitting all the ribs and chassis rails, to make sure it dries flat.
Having set that aside to dry I decided to jump a few steps and wrestle the canvas tilt. Having 5 pieces with no alignment pins or slots, just mitred mating surfaces, I found it a bit of a struggle. I did the best I could, and once it's hardened up a bit I'll go around seam by seam, adding extra glue to soften the joints so I can squeeze them up a bit tighter. No doubt it'll still need a bit of filler after that but I'll have to be careful not to lose the nicely moulded creases and folds.
Glad I started it early!
With so many parts to the rear suspension I can't guarantee all wheels will touch the ground. However the rear axles aren't actually glued to the springs yet, just held in place by several link rods, so there's a tiny bit of wriggle room if it's cocking one leg in the air.
Or I'll sink it into some mud
With that part done I moved onto the cargo area. Unsurprisingly for this kit the deck and frame are made up of several parts, and I managed to twist the flimsy deck whilst cleaning up the sprue scars. So it got taped down to a tile to get the twist out, then some weight was added after fitting all the ribs and chassis rails, to make sure it dries flat.
Having set that aside to dry I decided to jump a few steps and wrestle the canvas tilt. Having 5 pieces with no alignment pins or slots, just mitred mating surfaces, I found it a bit of a struggle. I did the best I could, and once it's hardened up a bit I'll go around seam by seam, adding extra glue to soften the joints so I can squeeze them up a bit tighter. No doubt it'll still need a bit of filler after that but I'll have to be careful not to lose the nicely moulded creases and folds.
Glad I started it early!
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Andy,
All looking very nice.
All looking very nice.
Andy,
The tilts are always a bit of a lottery - I find assembling with the use of Blutack internally to hold them together & running TET along the external seams, then allowing to dry overnight gets the basics. Then with all the Bluetack removed, either more TET, or if it is particularly fragile, CA internally. Are you going to open the back of the tilt?
Dave
The tilts are always a bit of a lottery - I find assembling with the use of Blutack internally to hold them together & running TET along the external seams, then allowing to dry overnight gets the basics. Then with all the Bluetack removed, either more TET, or if it is particularly fragile, CA internally. Are you going to open the back of the tilt?
Dave
D
Deleted member 7181
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Thanks Paul.
Blutack - I didn't think of that Dave! I tried tape on the outside but that didn't work, will remember that trick for next time. I think I'll be adding some CA to the insides, but hadn't thought about opening the tilt. I am planning to keep it removable if at all possible so I can see what's inside, but an open back might give a nice touch too.
Same here Andy, or I'll set them up on a ceramic tile that I know is flat. Unfortunately, since there isn't a common reference point on the axles it wasn't possible in this case. I've eyeballed the centre line of each and they look straight, but I'll know for sure once the wheels are built (a good few hours work by themselves!)
Blutack - I didn't think of that Dave! I tried tape on the outside but that didn't work, will remember that trick for next time. I think I'll be adding some CA to the insides, but hadn't thought about opening the tilt. I am planning to keep it removable if at all possible so I can see what's inside, but an open back might give a nice touch too.
Same here Andy, or I'll set them up on a ceramic tile that I know is flat. Unfortunately, since there isn't a common reference point on the axles it wasn't possible in this case. I've eyeballed the centre line of each and they look straight, but I'll know for sure once the wheels are built (a good few hours work by themselves!)
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You could also glue some plastic card along the insides of the joins to strengthen them, or even make internal walls from it to give the whole thing some rigidity. That’s probably going to be quite fiddly, though. Braces from lengths of sprue cut are probably easier and just as strong, come to think of it.
D
Deleted member 7181
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Thanks, some bracing is a good idea, although I've come to it this morning and it's remarkably sturdy now the joints have dried.
I'll see how it goes, as a bit of flex might come in handy if I've gotten something a little out of square!
I'll see how it goes, as a bit of flex might come in handy if I've gotten something a little out of square!
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi Andy
Missed the start of this but caught up now. By 'eck that's some kit. Certainly not skimped on the parts count. Superb start. The chassis/engine looks great.
Jim
Missed the start of this but caught up now. By 'eck that's some kit. Certainly not skimped on the parts count. Superb start. The chassis/engine looks great.
Jim
D
Deleted member 7181
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Cheers Jim. Yes, there's plenty to go at!
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Hi Andy.
A Thing you can try if wheels are not perfectly flat but it's only good for small differences. is to pin a sheet of smooth emery to a flat board and gently move the truck with the wheels on, backwards and forwards this will remove any high points. The other advantage is it gives the tyre a nice flat at the bottom to indicate a bit of weight in the truck. I have done it a few times but you have to take care as to not damage it.
A Thing you can try if wheels are not perfectly flat but it's only good for small differences. is to pin a sheet of smooth emery to a flat board and gently move the truck with the wheels on, backwards and forwards this will remove any high points. The other advantage is it gives the tyre a nice flat at the bottom to indicate a bit of weight in the truck. I have done it a few times but you have to take care as to not damage it.
D
Deleted member 7181
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Thanks Paul. I've used that trick in the past but never on soft rubber tyres. I still have my fingers crossed, hoping for the best.
With the load bed drying nice and flat I started assembling the seat and sides. I painted most of this in sections so I could reach underneath the seats. No one will ever see it I suppose, but at least I know it's been done. The bed got a coat on the outside too. It's all only a base to get me started but again it was easier to get around all the edges before assembly.
I've also positioned one of the benches folded down so I can add a bit of cargo if I feel like it. It's itching for a dozen or so figures but that's unlikely to happen in this lifetime
And the tilt fits well!
I've also started painting all of the tools, wheel chocks, towing bars etc that fit underneath the bed.
With the load bed drying nice and flat I started assembling the seat and sides. I painted most of this in sections so I could reach underneath the seats. No one will ever see it I suppose, but at least I know it's been done. The bed got a coat on the outside too. It's all only a base to get me started but again it was easier to get around all the edges before assembly.
I've also positioned one of the benches folded down so I can add a bit of cargo if I feel like it. It's itching for a dozen or so figures but that's unlikely to happen in this lifetime
And the tilt fits well!
I've also started painting all of the tools, wheel chocks, towing bars etc that fit underneath the bed.
Steve Brodie
SMF Supporter
Very nice build, love the exhaust and those engines are really well kitted out aren't they.
D
Deleted member 7181
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Thanks Steve.
Yes, they've done a great job with the engine I think, shame to hide it all away really. This version has the option to display the cab tilted forward, to put the engine on show, but I'm not sure I'd want it that way permanently. Once I've got it built up I'll see if there's a way have the cab in both positions.
So far I can only see the gear lever being an issue. It should sit on top of the engine in "open" mode, or inside the cab when "closed". I'm sure that's an easy fix.
Yes, they've done a great job with the engine I think, shame to hide it all away really. This version has the option to display the cab tilted forward, to put the engine on show, but I'm not sure I'd want it that way permanently. Once I've got it built up I'll see if there's a way have the cab in both positions.
So far I can only see the gear lever being an issue. It should sit on top of the engine in "open" mode, or inside the cab when "closed". I'm sure that's an easy fix.
Steve Brodie
SMF Supporter
The engine on the Pantsir, is a full build as well, but no way of showing it off, mind as i am going to display it in launch mode, i dont think they would be doing much maintenance work at the same time 