B
Boldman
Guest
As promised in a previous thread, here is my build of the Accurate Armour 1:48 Scale Standard Tilly. So this is a resin kit with some PE, acetate sheet for windows, wire and decals. This will be my first resin kit so it should be a challenge!
First off, lets look at the contents of the box that you get:
View attachment 27264View attachment 27265
There are three large parts which constitute the main body/chassis, front body and the canopy. There is quite a lot of flash which is an occupational hazard with resin mouldings. There are a number of smaller pieces of which the gear stick is the tiniest and most delicate, but there are several other parts that need careful handling.
Generally the mouldings are quite sharp, only the exhaust pipe seemed to have any moulding problems and those will be hidden. The front tyre treads are a bit distorted where they attach to the sprues.
The PE fret contains some VERY small pieces, intended to represent the hooks on the body that the canopy was tied down to. There is a very fine silver wire used for this.
The instructions are a bit basic:
View attachment 27262View attachment 27261View attachment 27260View attachment 27263
So construction begins with the main body/chassis. I paint as I go and I forgot to photo the early stages, but here is the underside of the chassis once the front and back axles and back springs have been added, along with the wheels. I've added mud in the wheel wells.
View attachment 27266
The front body goes on quite easily after trimming the mould point down to create a nice flat joint.
View attachment 27267
I've painted the cargo floor even though this won't be seen with the tilt on, but its got to be done since I will know its there
The front bumper goes on easily but is very delicate so care needs to be taken. The holes for the front headlamps were not large enough so needed drilling out to fit, and they go on at a funny angle, but checking with photos on the tilly register (http://standard.tillyregister.co.uk/) indicates that this is about right. Note that the modern restorations have wing mirrors, but the photos of the wartime ones don't show wing mirrors!
The doors are two part, the metal lower door and upper canvas window frame. You can see them here before painting next to the tailgate. you can also see the steering wheel, steerign column and gear lever on the right here:
View attachment 27268View attachment 27269
Note about the metal door parts - the left and right ones are different, with a handle-protrusion which should be at the top. I go them backwards at first and had to take them off after they'd originally been glued in place... not an ideal thing to do!
The tilt is all one piece and is cast in quite thick resin. It paints up okay, but doesn't fit on the body very well
View attachment 27270View attachment 27271
For windows, you are given a piece of clear acetate and you have to cut your own windows out for the front windscreen, rear window and side windows for the doors. I didn't put acetate in the two side windows in the canopy as the photos were not celar whether there was perspex or just a canvas flap.
Here you can see the seats and steering wheel installed, along with one door and the acetate windows. The first PE is also in evidence, namely the "Standard" grille badge and the circular tag on the pumper. There is some other PE on the back bit its not visible here. You can see the other door on the right, which is getting weathered in perperation to be attached. Since there is no driver figure, I'm posing it with the driver door open
View attachment 27275
So here is the build complete with the canopy in place, more PE added, including windscreen wipers, a rear view mirror on the driver's side plus some PE double hooks, intended to take the ends of the "rope" that holds the canopy on. The model has also got its first coat of Klear in preparation for the decals.
View attachment 27273View attachment 27272View attachment 27274
I decided not to risk the extra PE hooks and canopy rope as I really had enough problems manipulating the double hooks and wipers and these extra hooks were even smaller.On the rear view you can also see some PE straps that represent the ties on the rear flap of the canopy. There should be two more but the carpet monster claimed them!
All in all this is an interesting build, VERY different from the 1:35 Tilly from earlier. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone whose eyesight is worse than mine as the PE parts are microscopic - and a very steady had is essential.
Its not finished yet, still need to do some weathering of the canopy. I was going to do the "Micky mouse" camo scheme, but found I didn't have anythign suitable to provide small enough round masks. I bought some small round stickers from WH SMith but they were still too big, so I left it as it is rather than risk messing it up.
I'll post the completed pics later once the decals are on and the flat varnish and weathering are complete.
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First off, lets look at the contents of the box that you get:
View attachment 27264View attachment 27265
There are three large parts which constitute the main body/chassis, front body and the canopy. There is quite a lot of flash which is an occupational hazard with resin mouldings. There are a number of smaller pieces of which the gear stick is the tiniest and most delicate, but there are several other parts that need careful handling.
Generally the mouldings are quite sharp, only the exhaust pipe seemed to have any moulding problems and those will be hidden. The front tyre treads are a bit distorted where they attach to the sprues.
The PE fret contains some VERY small pieces, intended to represent the hooks on the body that the canopy was tied down to. There is a very fine silver wire used for this.
The instructions are a bit basic:
View attachment 27262View attachment 27261View attachment 27260View attachment 27263
So construction begins with the main body/chassis. I paint as I go and I forgot to photo the early stages, but here is the underside of the chassis once the front and back axles and back springs have been added, along with the wheels. I've added mud in the wheel wells.
View attachment 27266
The front body goes on quite easily after trimming the mould point down to create a nice flat joint.
View attachment 27267
I've painted the cargo floor even though this won't be seen with the tilt on, but its got to be done since I will know its there
The front bumper goes on easily but is very delicate so care needs to be taken. The holes for the front headlamps were not large enough so needed drilling out to fit, and they go on at a funny angle, but checking with photos on the tilly register (http://standard.tillyregister.co.uk/) indicates that this is about right. Note that the modern restorations have wing mirrors, but the photos of the wartime ones don't show wing mirrors!
The doors are two part, the metal lower door and upper canvas window frame. You can see them here before painting next to the tailgate. you can also see the steering wheel, steerign column and gear lever on the right here:
View attachment 27268View attachment 27269
Note about the metal door parts - the left and right ones are different, with a handle-protrusion which should be at the top. I go them backwards at first and had to take them off after they'd originally been glued in place... not an ideal thing to do!
The tilt is all one piece and is cast in quite thick resin. It paints up okay, but doesn't fit on the body very well
View attachment 27270View attachment 27271
For windows, you are given a piece of clear acetate and you have to cut your own windows out for the front windscreen, rear window and side windows for the doors. I didn't put acetate in the two side windows in the canopy as the photos were not celar whether there was perspex or just a canvas flap.
Here you can see the seats and steering wheel installed, along with one door and the acetate windows. The first PE is also in evidence, namely the "Standard" grille badge and the circular tag on the pumper. There is some other PE on the back bit its not visible here. You can see the other door on the right, which is getting weathered in perperation to be attached. Since there is no driver figure, I'm posing it with the driver door open
View attachment 27275
So here is the build complete with the canopy in place, more PE added, including windscreen wipers, a rear view mirror on the driver's side plus some PE double hooks, intended to take the ends of the "rope" that holds the canopy on. The model has also got its first coat of Klear in preparation for the decals.
View attachment 27273View attachment 27272View attachment 27274
I decided not to risk the extra PE hooks and canopy rope as I really had enough problems manipulating the double hooks and wipers and these extra hooks were even smaller.On the rear view you can also see some PE straps that represent the ties on the rear flap of the canopy. There should be two more but the carpet monster claimed them!
All in all this is an interesting build, VERY different from the 1:35 Tilly from earlier. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone whose eyesight is worse than mine as the PE parts are microscopic - and a very steady had is essential.
Its not finished yet, still need to do some weathering of the canopy. I was going to do the "Micky mouse" camo scheme, but found I didn't have anythign suitable to provide small enough round masks. I bought some small round stickers from WH SMith but they were still too big, so I left it as it is rather than risk messing it up.
I'll post the completed pics later once the decals are on and the flat varnish and weathering are complete.
View attachment 33110
View attachment 33111
View attachment 33112
View attachment 33113
View attachment 33114
View attachment 33115
View attachment 33116
View attachment 33117
View attachment 33118
View attachment 33119
View attachment 33120
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View attachment 33122
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