Airbrush Poll

What Airbrushes do you use?

  • Aztec A470

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Iwata High Performance Plus

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Neo For Iwata Airbrushes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Iwata Hi Line HP CH

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Iwata Revolution CR

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Iwata Eclipse HP CS

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Harder and Steenbeck Infinity

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Badger 150

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • OTHER BADGER

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • OTHER AIRBRUSHES

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • CHEAPO (CHINESE MADE AIRBRUSHES)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Harder and Steenbeck Ultra

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Harder and Steenbeck Evolution

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
Interested to see which ones of us uses what airbrush.


I have done this about a year and a half ago, but not in detail.


I will go first-I use the Iwata HI Line HP CH airbrush and an Iwata Eclipse HP CS
 
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A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
Please note down any airbrushes which I have forgot, and I will add them
 

monica

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cheapo,s as I,m to cheap to spend money on a good one,why that I cannot tell you, O.o :S


because i real should, 9_9
 
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A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
cheapo,s as I,m to cheap to spend money on a good one,why that I cannot tell you, O.o :S


because i real should, 9_9

try a branded Iwata from the High Performance plus range onwards to the HI Line, and you will never look back :smiling3:
 

monica

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i real should,as I,m finding with some thing like very fine lins are very hard to get because of the nozzles,are


not designated for that type of work,and any way with a bent needle very hard to get a whole lot done, >:sad: :S
 
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A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
i real should,as I,m finding with some thing like very fine lins are very hard to get because of the nozzles,are


not designated for that type of work,and any way with a bent needle very hard to get a whole lot done, >:sad: :S

unfortunately, I find that unsurprising-This model expo, keep your eyes out for some branded iwatas. A few years ago, they had an airbrush dealer for branded Iwatas at some bargain prices
 
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monica

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yes thats why i have not been spending over the last few weeks,saving what I can,


went to little wars last sunday,run by Nic,and only got a base that Jack gave me lol, 9_9


for my 54mm figure ,so your called Peter, :D


I will have a good look about,as there is a lot more swap meets about,I never know off,so no real need to go over board with kits,,


looking for a T34/85 and isu-152,and a very early Tiger,one of the first,and more along the lines of figure kits,as they don,t show up a lot a swap meets,so that's my plan,


and have a good look at the benders,down stairs,


as you say so are good,and have sales,others still ask more than the going cost lol, :S so got to watch them, :ph34r: 9_9
 
D

Deleted member 4539

Guest
I use 2 airbrushes.


Premiair g35,which I have been using for about 10 years


Badger 150,which I have been using for about 7 years.


Both of these are. double action.
 
A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
I use 2 airbrushes.


Premiair g35,which I have been using for about 10 years


Badger 150,which I have been using for about 7 years.


Both of these are. double action.

will put those up for you mate
 
C

CharleyGnarlyP290

Guest
I notice you don't have any Paasche airbrushes listed. I am using an Iwata Eclipse right now and it is by far the best I have, but I have single action and a double action by Paasche. I haen't used the DA in a couple of years, but don't remember any real issues with it (other than being siphon feed) and I still use the SA for bigger primer and basecoat jobs on occasion.
 
D

dubster72

Guest
i real should,as I,m finding with some thing like very fine lins are very hard to get because of the nozzles,are


not designated for that type of work,and any way with a bent needle very hard to get a whole lot done, >:sad: :S

A bent needle will ruin the performance of an expensive airbrush, just as it will on a cheap one.


And there's absolutely no reason why a cheap airbrush can't do thin lines. I've seen plenty of reviews on YouTube showing it done.


The problem is much more likely to be with the paint (mixing, thinning ratios etc) than the airbrush.


Checking that the nozzle is centred in the cap is very easy. If it looks slightly offset, a small adjustment of the cap will centre it. Usually just a quarter or half turn is sufficient.
 

monica

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very good point,your said there Patrick,and I do see your point, 9_9


what I,m not real understanding is ,with the cap adjustment,as I always turn it down so it locks,with the nozzle


,needle part,or the 2rd one down that screws onto the body,so that cap is real meant to be screw in or out to give the angle of


air/paint that comes out ? over only a few mm but  make a difference to the angle ?
 
D

dubster72

Guest
very good point,your said there Patrick,and I do see your point, 9_9


what I,m not real understanding is ,with the cap adjustment,as I always turn it down so it locks,with the nozzle


,needle part,or the 2rd one down that screws onto the body,so that cap is real meant to be screw in or out to give the angle of


air/paint that comes out ? over only a few mm but  make a difference to the angle ?

The main difference between a high-end airbrush & a cheap one is the quality of the machining of its components Monica.


Although generally ok, some Chinese clones suffer with their nozzle cap being very slightly out of true. So instead of the nozzle tip & cap being perfect concentric circles, they're like this





If there's an o-ring at the junction of the nozzle cap & airbrush body, that can affect it too. As the cap tightens & the o-ring compresses, it can alter the position of the air hole in relation to the nozzle tip.


I chuck away supplied o-rings & wrap PTFE tape around the threads to ensure an airtight seal.


The part I'm referring to is the one marked 'air cap' in the picture below (I always call it the nozzle cap)


04.jpg


The really important thing is not to adjust the cap too much. If its unscrewed too far, the nozzle tip will end up too far back & the paint won't flow properly. The tip of the nozzle should always be slightly proud of the cap like this





Of course, everyone's airbrush is a wee bit different because of use & cleaning regimes etc. So my advice is to break down your one & reassemble it without the needle. Then have a good look at the business end using a magnifying glass.


See if there's any misalignment & adjust the air cap a little until it looks ok. Mark the position of the air cap & put the needle in.


Then try it out to see if it works better. I did that with my one & it made a big difference. Not only was the spray pattern straight (it was slightly off before), but there was no spitting or splattering.
 
G

GazB

Guest
I own an Iwata Revolution and a cheapo "gold" Plated Chinese no brand. - I have had both for about Three Years and the honest truth is I have never found The Iwata to be any better than the £10 cheapo.
 

monica

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oh I see ,that shows it much better than i look at it,see what you mean as well,and I think the o-ring is gone as


well socking it in clearer ,and as you say ,if the needle dose not sit center that's were the splattering happen,all make very good sense ,


great advice,thank you so much will be having a look when have time, :D


PTFE tape,is that white tape that plummer and others use on nuts and so on,think i have some about after fixing the shower taps 9_9
 

PaulTRose

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my two pennuth.......


i use an Aztek, not sure which model but its the best AB ive ever had


ive had a badger that never worked that well..........ive had a Iwata Neo that was garbage............had several cheapo chinese ABs that worked well for a while before dying.....had this Aztek for 2 years and its great, if it ever needs replacing it will be with another Aztek
 
A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
The main difference between a high-end airbrush & a cheap one is the quality of the machining of its components Monica.


Although generally ok, some Chinese clones suffer with their nozzle cap being very slightly out of true. So instead of the nozzle tip & cap being perfect concentric circles, they're like this





If there's an o-ring at the junction of the nozzle cap & airbrush body, that can affect it too. As the cap tightens & the o-ring compresses, it can alter the position of the air hole in relation to the nozzle tip.


I chuck away supplied o-rings & wrap PTFE tape around the threads to ensure an airtight seal.


The part I'm referring to is the one marked 'air cap' in the picture below (I always call it the nozzle cap)


View attachment 256016


The really important thing is not to adjust the cap too much. If its unscrewed too far, the nozzle tip will end up too far back & the paint won't flow properly. The tip of the nozzle should always be slightly proud of the cap like this





Of course, everyone's airbrush is a wee bit different because of use & cleaning regimes etc. So my advice is to break down your one & reassemble it without the needle. Then have a good look at the business end using a magnifying glass.


See if there's any misalignment & adjust the air cap a little until it looks ok. Mark the position of the air cap & put the needle in.


Then try it out to see if it works better. I did that with my one & it made a big difference. Not only was the spray pattern straight (it was slightly off before), but there was no spitting or splattering.

Completely agreed. Just to complement what you said mate,


The chinese airbrushes, as you probably know, directly copy the iwata designs. I used them once at a model show, as a mate of mine had a chineses copy, and it could not do fine lines. The nozzle was off centre...... AS a matter of fact, that looks to be a direct copy of the Iwata custom micron


I have the mentality that paying for something in a high price pays for performance
 
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A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
Just interested, how does the aztec work?


There are mixed stuff about them
 
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A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
my two pennuth.......


i use an Aztek, not sure which model but its the best AB ive ever had


ive had a badger that never worked that well..........ive had a Iwata Neo that was garbage............had several cheapo chinese ABs that worked well for a while before dying.....had this Aztek for 2 years and its great, if it ever needs replacing it will be with another Aztek

Good too see the aztec works for you mate, the iwata neo is a piece of garbage, after all, it is not even a real iwata. If you had a real Iwata, you would not had had that problem.
 
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A

Airfix Modeller Freak

Guest
I own an Iwata Revolution and a cheapo "gold" Plated Chinese no brand. - I have had both for about Three Years and the honest truth is I have never found The Iwata to be any better than the £10 cheapo.

Try owning a HI Line Iwata...


I recently bought one, and it is a top of the line tool. I know it looks like the other cheapo ones, but the performance is vastly superior to any other airbrush, apart from the Iwata Custom Micron. I used to have an Infinity by H and S, but this just offers a lot more control.


IMG_1529.jpg


IMG_1530.jpg
 
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