Aqueous paint for airbrush practice
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Mark1
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I prefer mr hobby .
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Both of those are alcohol-based paints, though. You can thin them with water, both for washing out your brushes and spraying them, but using alcohol will work better.
As for which of the two is better, I agree with Pete (stillp): Mr. Hobby Aqueous is slightly better, but the difference is very small. If one of the two works for you, then so will the other, and you can even mix them if you want.
The main disadvantage with both of these is that you can’t buy them ready-mixed for airbrushing
Peter Gillson
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Hi
I think the answer I have for you is.; it depends! It depends on what you want to learn.
if you are completely new, and never used an airbrush before the first skills will be to be able to aim the airbrush and get the paint to hit the surface where you want it to be - this becomes very important when you start cammo or weathering work. For this any appropriately thinned paint will be ok - even ordinary ink will be ok.
The variables when airbrushing are:
Changing each of these will impact on the result and since all paints are slightly different I think it is best to practice with the make of paints you will use on your modells.
I do not do as much airbrushing as I used to (in the 80's I used to produce paintings, (inspired by Philip Castle) but now my airbrushing is less frequent so I developed a series of exercises which I use before I do any detailed airbrushing, here is a link to the blog I posted them on:
www.scale-models.co.uk
probably the 2 most important things to remember are: practice, practice. Practice and clean, clean clean!
peter
I think the answer I have for you is.; it depends! It depends on what you want to learn.
if you are completely new, and never used an airbrush before the first skills will be to be able to aim the airbrush and get the paint to hit the surface where you want it to be - this becomes very important when you start cammo or weathering work. For this any appropriately thinned paint will be ok - even ordinary ink will be ok.
The variables when airbrushing are:
- paint viscosity
- air pressure
- amount of paint in the paint cup
- amount the needle is pulled back
- distance from the surface
- speed you move the airbrush over the surface
Changing each of these will impact on the result and since all paints are slightly different I think it is best to practice with the make of paints you will use on your modells.
I do not do as much airbrushing as I used to (in the 80's I used to produce paintings, (inspired by Philip Castle) but now my airbrushing is less frequent so I developed a series of exercises which I use before I do any detailed airbrushing, here is a link to the blog I posted them on:
AIRBRUSH PRACTICE
in 2017 an article I wrote which detailed a number of practice routes was published in Military Modelling. Here are re-written versions in pdf format. Regards Peter
www.scale-models.co.uk
probably the 2 most important things to remember are: practice, practice. Practice and clean, clean clean!
peter
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- Bob
Love Mr Color, either type very easy to thin, spray and use.
BUT face mask and good filtering and ventilation are 100% required
BUT face mask and good filtering and ventilation are 100% required
It don't matter which paint you use, you need to learn how to thin paint, which air pressure to use for the chosen viscosity of paint.
Agree with Ian. If you do go with Tamiya and Mr Color (which I use) I would also go with Mr Color levelling thinner rather than water. They will then spray really well and the thinner can be used to clean the brush properly afterwards. Don’t overthink it though. Dilute the paint about fifty fifty and use about 15 psi and just try it. As you develop your personal preference, only alter one thing at a time (dilution, air pressure etc) so you can see what it does. It may take a little while but you’ll get there. It’s a pretty robust process and we all do it slightly differently.
Tim made the best comment ever about trying Airbrushing out. Change one thing at a time and only one thing. You will soon see the relationships between the air pressure, the thickness of the paint, even different types of paint and size of nozzle. Occasionally even the same brand of paint can throw a curve ball and you will be better prepared as to how to get it right again.
Hi and thank you for everyone,
First, to answer to Peter, I actually am completely new and I have never used an airbrush before. Thank for the Airbrush Practice pdf format which seems very helpful.
In response to your advices, I will try to clarify my needs.
After my apprenticeship, I should wish to paint this white metal scale model car (Ferrari 512 BB Le Mans 1981, 1/43) which will require solvent based primers and certainly (I am not sure) lacquer paints.
So, I suppose that my airbrushing needs will be essentially oriented to layers of primers and colours paints on the bodywork, the chassis and other many smaller elements and fortunately no artists drawings.
If I have choosen aquaeous paint for my learning phase it's mainly for safety reasons. On this subject, I tell you that I own a respirator mask with cartridges, but living in a flat (with balcony) I have no specific ventilation. What to do in this case ?
Taking into account your recommendations, I am going to order a Mr Color Aquaeous bottle and Leveling Thinner. I think I understood that this last product could be both thinner for the paint and cleaner for the airbrush. Isn't it ?
I also remembered that the right ratio Aquaeous paint/Leveling thinner must be one to one with my 0,4mm airbrush nozzle and about 15-20 psi pressure.
Is a quick release air coupling connector really usefull ?
Thank in advance
Michel
First, to answer to Peter, I actually am completely new and I have never used an airbrush before. Thank for the Airbrush Practice pdf format which seems very helpful.
In response to your advices, I will try to clarify my needs.
After my apprenticeship, I should wish to paint this white metal scale model car (Ferrari 512 BB Le Mans 1981, 1/43) which will require solvent based primers and certainly (I am not sure) lacquer paints.
So, I suppose that my airbrushing needs will be essentially oriented to layers of primers and colours paints on the bodywork, the chassis and other many smaller elements and fortunately no artists drawings.
If I have choosen aquaeous paint for my learning phase it's mainly for safety reasons. On this subject, I tell you that I own a respirator mask with cartridges, but living in a flat (with balcony) I have no specific ventilation. What to do in this case ?
Taking into account your recommendations, I am going to order a Mr Color Aquaeous bottle and Leveling Thinner. I think I understood that this last product could be both thinner for the paint and cleaner for the airbrush. Isn't it ?
I also remembered that the right ratio Aquaeous paint/Leveling thinner must be one to one with my 0,4mm airbrush nozzle and about 15-20 psi pressure.
Is a quick release air coupling connector really usefull ?
Thank in advance
Michel
Yes, levelling thinner can be used as a cleaner. I do 
1:1 is a good starting point with the paint dilution, but it may need adjustment. Only practice will tell. Personally I thin Mr Color a little more than Tamiya.
15-20psi is again a good starting point.
Ive never used a quick release air coupling on an airbrush. It may be useful if you swap brushes often, but otherwise it seems unnecessary to me.
1:1 is a good starting point with the paint dilution, but it may need adjustment. Only practice will tell. Personally I thin Mr Color a little more than Tamiya.
15-20psi is again a good starting point.
Ive never used a quick release air coupling on an airbrush. It may be useful if you swap brushes often, but otherwise it seems unnecessary to me.
Andy T
SMF Supporter
If you are concerned about the odour as it seems, then I'd definitely choose a different combination. Whilst those two are capable of giving fantastic results, the lacquer thinner and alcohol based paint will soon stink out the room with no ventilation / extraction.
A true water based paint may be better in your circumstances, although I don't find the results as good myself.
Peter Gillson
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Hi Michael
you are rightthat painting a car is all about laying down layers of paint. The key points of advice I have are:
1 - good techneque moving the airbrush across the car. Start with the airbrush about 30cm to one side of the car, start the air flowing, start moving your arm, start the paint flowing before you get to the car, when past the other end of the car stop the paint, stop your arm then stop the air.
2 - move your whole arm so the airbrush remains the same distance from the car throughout; rather than pivoting on your elbow which moves the airbrush in an arc
3 - lots of thin layers. Don't worryif the difference is not great between layers -the colour will build up
4 - wash the airbrush!!!
Peter
you are rightthat painting a car is all about laying down layers of paint. The key points of advice I have are:
1 - good techneque moving the airbrush across the car. Start with the airbrush about 30cm to one side of the car, start the air flowing, start moving your arm, start the paint flowing before you get to the car, when past the other end of the car stop the paint, stop your arm then stop the air.
2 - move your whole arm so the airbrush remains the same distance from the car throughout; rather than pivoting on your elbow which moves the airbrush in an arc
3 - lots of thin layers. Don't worryif the difference is not great between layers -the colour will build up
4 - wash the airbrush!!!
Peter
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Hi guys,
After reflexion, to avoid harmful molecules presence during an airbrush learning phase there is of course the choice (water+food coloring) and rather than (Mr Hobby Aquaeous paint+Leveling thinner) which is a solvent based mixing, Mr Hobby Acrysion paint should be perhaps a better choice.
The selection of the thinner for this paint Acrysion is far from being trivial : in fact Mr Hobby indicates that water (I suppose demineralized) can be chosen but recommend instead Acrysion Solvent for Airbrush.
If it is certain that water is not harmful, what about that Acrysion Solvent for Airbrush ? The presence of the word "solvent" is not reassuring.
Does any of the forum Scale-Models members have informations on this product ?
The goal is that the final mixing (paint + thinner) chosen for airbrush learning is not harmful.
Thanks for your help
Michel
After reflexion, to avoid harmful molecules presence during an airbrush learning phase there is of course the choice (water+food coloring) and rather than (Mr Hobby Aquaeous paint+Leveling thinner) which is a solvent based mixing, Mr Hobby Acrysion paint should be perhaps a better choice.
The selection of the thinner for this paint Acrysion is far from being trivial : in fact Mr Hobby indicates that water (I suppose demineralized) can be chosen but recommend instead Acrysion Solvent for Airbrush.
If it is certain that water is not harmful, what about that Acrysion Solvent for Airbrush ? The presence of the word "solvent" is not reassuring.
Does any of the forum Scale-Models members have informations on this product ?
The goal is that the final mixing (paint + thinner) chosen for airbrush learning is not harmful.
Thanks for your help
Michel
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Heh, I was just reading about the Acrysion paint earlier today. It seems to me like it’s a paint that tries to combine the best features of solvent-based and alcohol-based ones, but to be honest, what I read did not want to make me run out and buy it.
If you want to use Mr. Hobby paints, then I would advise Mr. Hobby Aqueous plus isopropanol (AKA isopropyl alcohol, 2-propanol, IPA, etc., or in French, alcool isopropylique). This works very well to thin both Mr. Aqueous and Tamiya paints for airbrushing, and though it’s technically a solvent, it’s an alcohol very much like the ones that are in these paints already anyway. A litre costs around ten euros and lasts forever (well, almost) if you only use it for airbrushing.
If you really want to avoid all solvents, though, you should probably go for Vallejo, Ammo, Hataka, Italeri, Revell, or similar paints that are water-based rather than alcohol-based.
If you want to use Mr. Hobby paints, then I would advise Mr. Hobby Aqueous plus isopropanol (AKA isopropyl alcohol, 2-propanol, IPA, etc., or in French, alcool isopropylique). This works very well to thin both Mr. Aqueous and Tamiya paints for airbrushing, and though it’s technically a solvent, it’s an alcohol very much like the ones that are in these paints already anyway. A litre costs around ten euros and lasts forever (well, almost) if you only use it for airbrushing.
If you really want to avoid all solvents, though, you should probably go for Vallejo, Ammo, Hataka, Italeri, Revell, or similar paints that are water-based rather than alcohol-based.
Jakko mate, the only way you could avoid all solvents would be by working with coloured chalks 
Water is probably the least obnoxious of solvents, but it depends what is actually dissolved in it. If this is a concern then a decent quality face mask along with a well ventilated room is very useful.
Water is probably the least obnoxious of solvents, but it depends what is actually dissolved in it. If this is a concern then a decent quality face mask along with a well ventilated room is very useful.
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A chemistry background (even one as limited as mine) can be handy in a discussion like this, yes — but you know what I meantJakko mate, the only way you could avoid all solvents would be by working with coloured chalks
It sprays very well, in my experience, and is a lot cheaper than buying a manufacturer’s solvent which is mostly isopropanol anyway.
I don’t find it harder than other paints
And because alcohol-based acrylic paints also dissolve in water, you can also spray through or wash out the airbrush with that.Probably more like 2:1 paint:alcohol, I think. But I don’t measure it out — I just put paint into the airbrush, mix in some alcohol (or water, for water-based paints) and stir. If I think it looks too thick I’ll try spraying a bit, and if it does feel thick, I add some more alcohol (or water). But of course, I have been doing this with Tamiya paint for about 35 years, so I have the experience to look at the paint as I stir it and make a good guess at if it’s thin enough yet, or not.
In your case, I think I would start about 2:1 like I said above. Try spraying a bit, on some scrap material (a piece of paper, cardboard, etc.) to see if it seems to go well or not, and if the paint looks like it doesn’t spray well enough, add a bit more alcohol. A syringe works very well for this, because you can add the alcohol in small doses and in a controlled manner.