Nice dusty set of used wheels anyone?View attachment 99995
AKI True Metal aluminium for the hubs with a AKI Landing Gear wash. The tyres were painted AKI Rubber Tyre grey over the black primer the I dry brushed them with two AKI pigments, European Earth and Dark Earth. I find this to be very effective for an operation aircraft depicted in summer as the Tiffy is. Forgot to mention the White tyre slip markings done with Vallejo Model Colour White and a fine brush and a little masking tape.
What about a nice used prop?
View attachment 99996
I just used the Black Vallejo primer masked the tips and sprayed them Vallejo Model Air Ochre. The wear was depicted with a silver artist pencil. I will not be varnishing the prop, it will be fitted as it is.
Currently I am working on the rockets. They are painted OD but I need to paint the tips white and weather them. Pics tomorrow or later tonight if I get a chance.
AKI True Metal aluminium for the hubs with a AKI Landing Gear wash. The tyres were painted AKI Rubber Tyre grey over the black primer the I dry brushed them with two AKI pigments, European Earth and Dark Earth. I find this to be very effective for an operation aircraft depicted in summer as the Tiffy is. Forgot to mention the White tyre slip markings done with Vallejo Model Colour White and a fine brush and a little masking tape.
What about a nice used prop?
View attachment 99996
I just used the Black Vallejo primer masked the tips and sprayed them Vallejo Model Air Ochre. The wear was depicted with a silver artist pencil. I will not be varnishing the prop, it will be fitted as it is.
Currently I am working on the rockets. They are painted OD but I need to paint the tips white and weather them. Pics tomorrow or later tonight if I get a chance.
Just finished the rockets. A bit more time consuming than I thought but i am happy with the result. Decided not to get the metal ones and used the kit supplied rockets.
I airbrushed them in Olive Drab and when dried dipped the noses vertically in a shallow pool of Vallejo white primer.
Then I painted the brackets with a mix of Olive Drab and a dark green. Bruce colour is not a lot different to the rockets but adds some definition.
I used the silver pencil to bring out highlights and to show some paint scratches and wear. Finally I dry brushed on some dark earth pigment in a few random areas to make the rockets look a little dirty and dusty.
The effect is quite good
The tails are 0.5 mil lead wire. I drilled holes in the rockets to fix this to them and I plan to have them plugged in just to be different.
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Monday I will mask the wheel wells and spray some AKI True Metal aluminium.
I airbrushed them in Olive Drab and when dried dipped the noses vertically in a shallow pool of Vallejo white primer.
Then I painted the brackets with a mix of Olive Drab and a dark green. Bruce colour is not a lot different to the rockets but adds some definition.
I used the silver pencil to bring out highlights and to show some paint scratches and wear. Finally I dry brushed on some dark earth pigment in a few random areas to make the rockets look a little dirty and dusty.
The effect is quite good
The tails are 0.5 mil lead wire. I drilled holes in the rockets to fix this to them and I plan to have them plugged in just to be different.
View attachment 100080
Monday I will mask the wheel wells and spray some AKI True Metal aluminium.
T
treyzx10r
Guest
Using Montex for the first time on my JU-88 builds and I'm not impressed ,the eduard set that I used on my last 88 fit much better. The tires look very authentic Barry, captured the real look of rubber quite well!\ said:
rickoshea52
SMF Supporter
Those creep marks on the tyres are a very subtle touch of detail. I contemplated putting white crayon marks on the tyres of my Nimrod but thought better of it. The cross sectional width of the tyres are measured and written on the sidewalls as there are limits as to which axle they can be fitted too.
Last night I sprayed AKI True Metal Aluminium in the wheel bay and onto some subassemblies.
I found that True Metal sprayed very well indeed but some tips:
1/ squeeze a little into a mixing pot then add a little odourless thinner, just a little and mix it really well getting rid of any lumps. Add a little more thinner and mix again. Keep going that way mixing thoroughly as you go until you get the right consistency for spraying. This product has a tendency to clump if you don't mix it thoroughly.
2/ make sure it dries fully before buffing. Remember it takes longer to dry than acrylic paint. The optimum time to buff is 2-3 hours after spraying as long as it is dry. If you leave it too long it is a lot more difficult to buff which is not necessarily a bad thing at all. It 'gives' a lot less than Gunze.
3/ use a good black primer underneath the TM.
I sprayed at 25-30 psi a bit higher than usual using a .4 needle. It laid down very well indeed and produced an excellent result better than when brushed.
Tonight I have some details in the wheel wells to paint before weathering it.
View attachment 100431
I found that True Metal sprayed very well indeed but some tips:
1/ squeeze a little into a mixing pot then add a little odourless thinner, just a little and mix it really well getting rid of any lumps. Add a little more thinner and mix again. Keep going that way mixing thoroughly as you go until you get the right consistency for spraying. This product has a tendency to clump if you don't mix it thoroughly.
2/ make sure it dries fully before buffing. Remember it takes longer to dry than acrylic paint. The optimum time to buff is 2-3 hours after spraying as long as it is dry. If you leave it too long it is a lot more difficult to buff which is not necessarily a bad thing at all. It 'gives' a lot less than Gunze.
3/ use a good black primer underneath the TM.
I sprayed at 25-30 psi a bit higher than usual using a .4 needle. It laid down very well indeed and produced an excellent result better than when brushed.
Tonight I have some details in the wheel wells to paint before weathering it.
View attachment 100431
T
tommy1drop
Guest
Cracking work Barry
A quick pic of a wheel well with freshly painted details. Weathering it over the next couple of evenings.
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Update from last night. Wheel wells all weathered with a dusty look to go with the dusty wheels. AKI landing gear wash used and AKI European Earth and Dark Earth pigment. I am really liking these AKI pigments as they are much finer than the Vallejo ones.
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Z
Ziper_it
Guest
Hi Barry, you did a great job with those bays.
Weathering is spot on.
Francesco
Weathering is spot on.
Francesco
I am not sure if I will be able to do anything at all over the weekend. But the model is now fully masked ready to pre-shade with Vallejo Grey Primer and the rockets are finished and on their rails. I have plugged in the tails. This would have been done at the last minute with the pilot sat in his seat ready for take off but in this case imagine the WingCo as having had an urgent message and has jumped out of the plane before the armourers have had a chance to disarm them.
The 0.5 mil lead wire is perfect for the tails and I like the rather neater appearance of them this way. Because it's lead wire each is a bit individual as well.
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The 0.5 mil lead wire is perfect for the tails and I like the rather neater appearance of them this way. Because it's lead wire each is a bit individual as well.
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Looking a great as ever. I wonder if I'm still in the dark ages using 'Promodeler washes' How easy are the AKI pigments to use Barry ?
What I like Colin is the combination of the three AK products as they work well together.
The Air Series acrylic paint dries with a sheen to enable you to apply the enamel wash without having to varnish. This was very convenient for the rocket rails. The pigments are very fine and far easier than Vallejo pigment to use they can be brushed straight onto the paint for a more subtle look or you can apply it thicker and use a fixer to hold it in place for a heavier dirtier look.
When I paint the main aircraft I will be using some matt Vallejo colour as well as AK so I will have to gloss varnish before using the panel line pin washes. Besides for decalling I think a gloss coat will still be necessary despite using masks For some markings I will still need to use some decals.
The Air Series acrylic paint dries with a sheen to enable you to apply the enamel wash without having to varnish. This was very convenient for the rocket rails. The pigments are very fine and far easier than Vallejo pigment to use they can be brushed straight onto the paint for a more subtle look or you can apply it thicker and use a fixer to hold it in place for a heavier dirtier look.
When I paint the main aircraft I will be using some matt Vallejo colour as well as AK so I will have to gloss varnish before using the panel line pin washes. Besides for decalling I think a gloss coat will still be necessary despite using masks For some markings I will still need to use some decals.
Well I pre-shaded using Vallejo Grey Primer
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I ended up leaving the wings tops where the stripes will go having preshaded elsewhere where they will go! Not as consistent as I am normally!!!
I the sprayed the underside. As usual I layered on thin coats stopping while plenty of preshading showing through. Then I sprayed the centre panels with the base coat plus about 20% white, thinned down making sure it was not too even and making sure some randomness was included. Then I sprayed the base coat again thinned 50% in a mist coat to blend it all together and adjust the contrast down to where I want it. The result is a colour modulated underside as the first stage towards weathering. I am wondering if there is enough randomness though. If not I will spray some more thinned base coats targets in certain areas to vary it a bit.
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You can see that for this I left out where the invasion stripes will be. Primarily because I am concerned about running out of the colour as these AKI paints are not yet sold as individual bottles.
I did one other thing - drop some clear red and blue into the hollow of the wing lights.
View attachment 101360
Now it is just going through my masking and painting sequence which alone at a colour per session is 10 sessions until it is painted including a touching up and detail painting session. It will then be down to decalling then weathering.....
I recon maybe 22/23 sessions over the next 4 to 6 weeks barring hold ups
View attachment 101356
View attachment 101357
I ended up leaving the wings tops where the stripes will go having preshaded elsewhere where they will go! Not as consistent as I am normally!!!
I the sprayed the underside. As usual I layered on thin coats stopping while plenty of preshading showing through. Then I sprayed the centre panels with the base coat plus about 20% white, thinned down making sure it was not too even and making sure some randomness was included. Then I sprayed the base coat again thinned 50% in a mist coat to blend it all together and adjust the contrast down to where I want it. The result is a colour modulated underside as the first stage towards weathering. I am wondering if there is enough randomness though. If not I will spray some more thinned base coats targets in certain areas to vary it a bit.
View attachment 101358
View attachment 101359
You can see that for this I left out where the invasion stripes will be. Primarily because I am concerned about running out of the colour as these AKI paints are not yet sold as individual bottles.
I did one other thing - drop some clear red and blue into the hollow of the wing lights.
View attachment 101360
Now it is just going through my masking and painting sequence which alone at a colour per session is 10 sessions until it is painted including a touching up and detail painting session. It will then be down to decalling then weathering.....
I recon maybe 22/23 sessions over the next 4 to 6 weeks barring hold ups
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