CarolsHusband
SMF Supporter
Thanks Steve, definitely enjoying it.
Dan
Your biting the bullet in resurrecting the build has inspired me to drag my Bergpanthers out from retirement - once I get two sets of metal tracks and a surfeit of mojo I'll crack on with them. The end results are good for both Meng and Takom tracks but why do they have to be so brain-numbingly complex! Going well so far.
Steve
Praise indeed, thank you Mike.Dan,
That weathering is spot on, and looks so realistic. Once you get a matt varnish over all it will looke even better if that is possible. Well done.
Mike.
I've not used filler.yet but would it hold up on an edge like that without breaking off? Filing that edge of the wheel flat and gluing plastic on and shaping that up first might be stronger, just an idea.Diddy update, I really haven't had a decent run of time to get on with this. Gales and heavy rain forecast for tomorrow though...
Had a bash at the sides of the hull tonight, not overly happy with the results but we'll see what it looks like when the kit is all stowed on the racks.
View attachment 423902
View attachment 423903
Apart from the broken rear idlers I also have a bit of an issue with a couple of the wheels. There was something else in the box with the kit for those decades, I'm guessing something solvent-ish, though it could be of rodent origin.... I'll settle for solvent.
The wheels have melted, next mission is to get busy with the filler.
View attachment 423904
I s'pose a sensible person would swap them to a less visible position. Oh well, filler it is then.
Cheers, Dan.
That's a much better idea thanks Mark.I've not used filler.yet but would it hold up on an edge like that without breaking off? Filing that edge of the wheel flat and gluing plastic on and shaping that up first might be stronger, just an idea.
Rest is coming on well.
Agree with Mark, filler could well be too brittle (at least, the Revell Plasto is!)
Good old Davids P-41! Years ago, I had a car (Morris Marina) that had the front of the wings re-built using that! Great sculpting material- will form in a mold for 'custom' effects as well.S'funny that, been using filler to hold my cars together for years !
Actually not true
You can put the one on the right in your photo in a position so the bad part is hidden behind an outer wheel. If you put the melted side to the lower right or left, it’ll be pretty much invisible, I think.I s'pose a sensible person would swap them to a less visible position. Oh well, filler it is then.
Thanks Jakko, that is another good idea. Would it still be driveable with a roadwheels missing or would that mean it was broken ? To be fair, it looks pretty broken !You can put the one on the right in your photo in a position so the bad part is hidden behind an outer wheel. If you put the melted side to the lower right or left, it’ll be pretty much invisible, I think.
The other one is more problematic, but Gerry’s tip sounds like it’s worth a shot. Alternatively, you could leave off that wheel entirely (the outer one, that is — not the inner one on the same axle) and modify the end so it looks like the bolts were undone and the wheel removed. Probably the easiest way would be to cut off the wheel to leave only the axle including its front face and drill holes where the eight bolts around the hub are.
I'm all for the easy life, so Dan, perhaps just build as is and then place the model on a simple and straight forward base, sitting in some soft ground, mud or grass. Wonky wheels gone. Job done!
Worth a thought at least.
Ron
Keep us posted on the repair, always interestedI think I'm going to go for repairing them, it's all good practice and I like a challenge.
Also it's pouring with rain and blowing a gale so I'm best off inside....
Thanks chaps
Definitely. These tanks had double wheels on eight axles — losing one of the outboard ones wouldn’t really matter.Would it still be driveable with a roadwheels missing
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