Etched brass and c/a

[Scratchbuilder]

I said I would put up my method for cementing etch brass with c/a.
So starting with the tools I use and preperation.

OK, the brass parts have been cut from the fret and cleaned up with some 400 wet n dry paper to get rid of the burrs. The frame part has been bent to shape using a pair of smooth face pliers. And is now sitting in the corner of a 90 degree set, and at this point no c/a has been used.
You can see the slats and rods (only two used), a top that has been warmed over a candle in the centre and a round object used to make a depression for the c/a to sit in.
Also are the only tools I use for asembling the slat armour - a pair of pointed tweezers and half a wooden peg with a pin c/a'd into the end....


So the first job is to place the first slat into the slot on either side and using the pin applicator add a small dab of c/a at each end to secure the slat. I then clean of the pin on a bit of tissue and go back to the ends and clean off the excess c/a and again wipe off the pin. By now the c/a is starting to set, and here you use the tweezers to straighten up the slat so that it is verticle to the eye and not leaning...

You can use some weights to hold the part square while the first slat hardens, and once this had happened (30 seconds) then you can progress to adding the other slats in the same way....

And here we have all the slats in position and all glued.
During this process there will be minute drops of c/a that will 'leak' onto the tile - this is not a problem as this will in fact hold the whole frame in position. Also at this point the top of the frame has been c/a'd into place and here you will get an attachment to the tile - no panic.

Now the rods have been gently pushed into place, but the thickness of the ruler is stopping them from going all the way through - no problem...

You can now gently slide a single side razor blade/ cutting blade under one corner which will be the main contact point between the frame and the tile... A gentle levering action will get the c/a to release the whole frame....

... And a gentle lift with a finger will fold the frame away....

To secure the rods into the frame I use an old No 10A blade, I dip this into the c/a and then touch it to the joint between each rod and the frame ending up with this...

If you look at the top rod you can see the c/a wrapped arounf the rod - to remove the excess I use the pin to 'stroke around the rod and this allows the pin to remove the excess c/a...

... As you can see above where both rods are now fixed in place and ready for final clean up. The amount of c/a used for 4 frames is this...

And that is it. Take your time from the begining, study the item, look at the pics that come with the etch set and this will give you an idea of what the final shape should be, then sit back and try to work out how the bends will come in sequence, and if unsure then cut a piece of paper with a rough drawing of the piece and fold that into shape, far better than ruining the part, and I talk from experience.....
Any questions, please ask/PM and I will try to set you on the right road...
Cheers
Mike.

 

[Jim R]

Very useful and very well explained. I assume the CA used is the thin, rapid variety.

If you look at the top rod you can see the c/a wrapped arounf the rod - to remove the excess I use the pin to 'stroke around the rod and this allows the pin to remove the excess c/a...

I suppose you have to work pretty quickly so that the CA doesn't harden before you get to it.
I like the idea of using an old blade as a CA applicator.

 

[Andy T]

Thanks Mike, very useful.

My problem seems to be with applicators. I've tried everything from wire to toothpicks, sharp & blunt pins, airbrush needles, and they all seem to do the same thing for me - the CA wicks it's way up the applicator rather than staying on the end (if that makes any sense!)

Will try an old blade, I certainly have enough of them

 

[scottie3158]

Thanks Mike, very useful.

My problem seems to be with applicators. I've tried everything from wire to toothpicks, sharp & blunt pins, airbrush needles, and they all seem to do the same thing for me - the CA wicks it's way up the applicator rather than staying on the end (if that makes any sense!)

Will try an old blade, I certainly have enough of them

Andy,
I use an old needle held in an old exacto handle with eye nipped through to form a fork. It holds a small pool of CA and when it gets choked up just burn it off with a flame but avoid breathing the fumes.

 

[Andy T]

Cheers Paul. I have something similar pushed into an old paintbrush handle in the back of a drawer somewhere. I can't remember why I didn't get on with it but I'll dig it out and try again.

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Very useful and very well explained. I assume the CA used is the thin, rapid variety.

I suppose you have to work pretty quickly so that the CA doesn't harden before you get to it.
I like the idea of using an old blade as a CA applicator.

Sorry Jim, I should have said that I use my own mix of fast and medium setting c/a, but a 10 - 20 second setting should be ok. And you do not have to work quickly, I built up that frame in about 10 minutes, but I also took photos in between. It depends on how fast you want to work, I have been halfway through, gone and had my lunch, watched the midday news and then come back to the bench two hours later, it is up to you how fast or slow you want to be.
Mike

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Thanks Mike, very useful.

My problem seems to be with applicators. I've tried everything from wire to toothpicks, sharp & blunt pins, airbrush needles, and they all seem to do the same thing for me - the CA wicks it's way up the applicator rather than staying on the end (if that makes any sense!)

Will try an old blade, I certainly have enough of them

Yes the c/a tends to build up at the tip of the pin, and when this happens I clean it off with a bit of rough wet n dry, if you look at my pin in the pics you can see it is well worn down.

 

[JR]

Thanks Mike, very useful.

My problem seems to be with applicators. I've tried everything from wire to toothpicks, sharp & blunt pins, airbrush needles, and they all seem to do the same thing for me - the CA wicks it's way up the applicator rather than staying on the end (if that makes any sense!)

Will try an old blade, I certainly have enough of them

Andy I was in the same boat as you, even tried Paul's method with the needle with the eye removed. That's was great, then think it was Bob who mentioned the ca wick blade. A curved blade with a center grove, two types , one for thick and one for thin. I ordered the thin glue version, the glue wicks up the grove leaving just the right amount on the tip. To clean I burn off the ca.Will have a look tomorrow and let you know the name and where I got it from .

 

[JR]

Superb explanation Wibble , frightens me each time I have to attempt PE.

 

[stillp]

To clean I burn off the ca.

Why am I not surprised?
Pete

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Why am I not surprised?
Pete

Well he got caught growing grass, thought he was onto a good thing untill it was explained to him exactly what grass was.... see how c/a fumes can addle your brain....

 

[Andy the Sheep]

A significant contribution in making me hate less PE and CA ; thank you indeed!

 

[Scratchbuilder]

A significant contribution in making me hate less PE and CA ; thank you indeed!

Soon have you on the dark side..... now concentrate and look at this orange Smartie.....

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Superb explanation Wibble , frightens me each time I have to attempt PE.

Bit like you trying to get me to make a building, how many times is it you have dragged me from under the sofa....

 

[JR]

Bit like you trying to get me to make a building, how many times is it you have dragged me from under the sofa....

I'd rather scribe a 8x4 sheet of foam than attempt that bar armour !

 

[David Lovell]

I meant to add my thoughts(or as usual poke my five eggs in) some time ago so just as you all thought it was safe......a good few years back now I bought some glue loopers at Telford apart from the smallest size thought they had made me part with my money for nothing ,then at one of the Poole Vikings model shows got my hands on a needle put in a piece of dowel with the eye cut in half couldn't get on much sense ,so have mostly just used blunt pointy scaple blades I suppose just developing my own technique.
Some where on here a while age was a discussion about canopy glue ,can't remember who but something like canopy zap? was recommended ,also noted that it was good for small photo etch parts so a quick surf on flea Bay produced it at various prices found one with these I think there called glue droppers/spotters price was more with free postage than the cheaper one but that had postage making it the same price

This is the best since soft toilet roll ,carefully dip/touch the small ball end in the ca then touch where the etch goes and it deposits a tiny drop of CA just place etch on top dead easy. To clean the tip you can pick it off or show it a fag lighter/Gas cooker. Piece to small for tweezers then I use one of thoes pencils with the white waxy ends ,also a cocktail stick with a bit of saliva works. The canopy glue has yet to be used says on the bottle it takes three hours to fully set cant hang about waiting for that but if a wingy thing does fall from the stash I'm in. Dave

 

[Andy T]

Wow Dave, I have a set of those that were sold as sculpting ball tools but have hardly been used as such. I've just started a kit that has some etch parts so will try giving them a new lease of life as glue applicators!

 

[David Lovell]

Wow Dave, I have a set of those that were sold as sculpting ball tools but have hardly been used as such. I've just started a kit that has some etch parts so will try giving them a new lease of life as glue applicators!

Andy practice on a bit of scrap plastic as I said gently touch /dip in the ca then touch where etch goes and a nice little drop of ca will be left there once you've got your eye in you can get it down to pin head size. Hope it works for you it dont half make life easier. I use rocket ca the one with the blue lable gives you 10-20 seconds ages to push and pull the etch about. Dave

 

[stillp]

They look like those nail art 'dotting tools' that Tony uses.
Pete

 

[Miko]

Useful, my sword Lighting has etch, it seems tiny amounts of CA is the key.

. . . and remarkable eyesight!

Miko (learning stuff today)