Filler?

[David Lovell]

Who uses what I once had a tube of squadron white stuff but used about 6pence worth before the tube went solid ,I had some of that Vallejo stuff in a little tube but it seemed not to like to adhere to the plastic came off in lumps when sanded ,millieput ok on white metal figures (do they still make them Hinchcliffe pheonx Ray Lamb etc etc) I've got a tube of humbrol filler ok does its job but need to squish tube else it comes out in separate component's, only want something to fill a few gaps and knock out pin marks easy to sand not to much to ask for ?

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

two things i have used

super glue plus plastic dust ( or talcum powder )
sprue disolved in tamiya extra thin

 

[Jim R]

Hi David
I don't know if it's applicable for white metal but I like THIS for plastic.
Jim

 

[KarlW]

Super glue and talc, just be aware when sanding it's harder than plastic.
Or sprue goo, bits of sprue dissolved in liquid glue, when you look at the old school modelling shows they refer to it as liquid plastic.
Kneadatite putty, aka green stuff, takes a bit of getting used to though and is useful for sculpting as well.
Squadron is good but hard to use a tube before it turns to a brick, though it takes a few years.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Tamiya filler putty is great, but hard to find. Jim’s PPP is also good for seams, and easy to clean up with a damp cotton bud, but on things like knockout marks I find it doesn't stick well enough to sand down. There are some useful things in the “Mr” range (Mr dissolved putty comes to mind) as well.

 

[Si Benson]

I like the squadron green/white but as you say it seems to set in the tube way before it should...And you end up chucking it out!!

To combat this I squeezed what was left in the tube into an old Tamiya paint pot and topped off with Tamiya lacquer thinner.

Every time I use it I add a few more drops.
You can thin it right down this way and drizzle it into gaps off a cocktail stick

 

[David Lovell]

Interesting how every body has their own solution, no doubt brought about by their own trial and error ,will have to pop to local model railway shop he keeps a good stock of products id rather look there first than turn to the Internet.

 

[Tim Marlow]

John at Scale Model Shop (our genial host) has most of these products David.

 

[Mini Me]

Been using the same tube of putty for almost 10 years now......Paid $4.95 US at the local NAPA auto parts store. It is made for body work as a fine filler of small imperfections. We call it "Glazing or Spot Putty" Does not dry up in the tube (obviously) and is thin enough for the finest work......and fast drying (about 20-30 min.) depending on temp. Hope this helps. Rick H.

 

[Jakko]

I used to use Revell Plasto, but first squeezed most of the glue-like goo from the tube so I was left with a much drier filler. However, after the last model shop within easy reach of me packed in, I couldn’t easily get hold of it anymore. As a result, I switched to car body filler, of the Dutch brand Alabastine that I can get in hardware stores. No real need for that, though, as the tube I have is 125 ml (when new ) and is still mostly full after several years using it. Added bonus is that it can be thinned with the glue thinner I use as plastic cement.

 

[Archetype]

I’m still in the market for an all purpose filler so this thread is useful.

My main problem is application. I use a combination of glue spreader / old blades / shaped cocktail sticks / finger to apply and haven’t mastered any of them.

I’ve used the following, in chronological order:
Revell Plasto - hardens too quickly to work with. Need to get to work straight away.
Mr White Putty - similar to contacta, just finer and a little more fluid.
Mr Dissolved Putty - apply like paint. dries quickly.

 

[Dave Ward]

I use either Revell Plasto, or Perfect Plastic Putty, the Plasto for larger holes/gaps, the PPP for everything else
Dave

 

[Jakko]

My main problem is application. I use a combination of glue spreader / old blades / shaped cocktail sticks / finger to apply and haven’t mastered any of them.

Dentist/sculpture tools like these work best, is my experience:



I’ve got ones resembling some of these, and a few others, and find they work very well to get the filler where I need it.

 

[BarryW]

Who uses what I once had a tube of squadron white stuff but used about 6pence worth before the tube went solid ,I had some of that Vallejo stuff in a little tube but it seemed not to like to adhere to the plastic came off in lumps when sanded ,millieput ok on white metal figures (do they still make them Hinchcliffe pheonx Ray Lamb etc etc) I've got a tube of humbrol filler ok does its job but need to squish tube else it comes out in separate component's, only want something to fill a few gaps and knock out pin marks easy to sand not to much to ask for ?

The problem with water based prodicts like VPP is humidity. If it has not fully cured then what you describe is exactly what happens. When using Vallejo products and similar try placing the model in an airing cupboard 24 hours before sanding, it works for me.

Vallejo Plastic Putty is one of the three filler products I use simply because it dries hard and can be built up in layers to be sanded into shape. The other two are Mr Surfacer 500 which is lacquer based and in a jar. The other is Mr Dissolved Putty, also lacquer based, for its self-levelling qualities. Each of the three has its own uses and they compliment each other. Sometimes I find thick c.a. gel useful as well.

 

[Archetype]

Dentist/sculpture tools...work best...:

Good thinking! Walk past these frequently in my local hobby tool shop...never occurred to me!

Hope David is finding this helpful /sorry for slight hijack/

 

[Jakko]

The ones I find most useful have either wide, sharp, blade-like tips along the lines of the third from left in the photo, and with flat, angled tips like the sixth. I have others, which also have their uses, but I think I reach for these most often to apply filler putty.

 

[David Lovell]

I'm glad so many have joined this discussion it seems to be helping all ,please keep adding to this we've all got our own little quirks i quit often read things on here and think why didn't I think of that .Dave.

 

[Dave Ward]

For larger filler application I use wooden stirrer sticks
stirrers
I cut the ends to suit whatever I'm filling - and I also make bespoke sanding sticks with them, just CA some emery paper to them, after trimming to shape/size. I use them when airbrushing a load of small parts - double sided tape, with one end bare for a handhold. There are lots of other uses, I'm finding new one all the time! handy to have around
Dave

 

[Deleted member 5496]

After trying just about every filler under the sun & on earth I now have a combination which I have found works for me.

For larger gaps Mr Hobby's Mr White Putty It's consistency makes it easy to pack in. It cures quickly. It does not shrink. Plus it sticks to a feather edge with out breaking away.

For smaller gaps Mr Hobby's Mr White Putty R similar to the above but has a much more runny consistency. All the same tendencies as the above

Finishing. Mr Hobby Surfacer 500. Superb for fuselage joints. Also on top of the above fillers to finish the surface. Build up with 1 2 or even 3 coats. Cures quickly second coat within the hour.

Beauty I have found with all the above they are very much the hardness of plastic. Rub them down near to flush & then use wet & dry paper or a sandstick which can take water.
None of the fillers fall away or flake there is superb adhesion. With care all provide a surface which is indistinguishable once primed.

I do believe that you can use Mr Hobby Color Thiiner to smooth all of the above. Not tried it as I prefer the wet sanding method.

For very small joints, for instance engine nacelle to wing Vallejo Plastic Putty. However, I only use that were I can wet a finger & make a smooth transition. I find sanding will rough up the surface & is difficult to recover where as a wet finger gives a very smooth top.

Laurie

 

[boatman]

WELL i use plastic wood filler on my tiger build
an it works great goes off in a bout 30mins an it can be bought in a tube like tooth paste an it never goes hard an long as the top is screwed back on
chris