Filling gaps on 3D printed models

Gern

'Stashitis' victim
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
9,703
Points
113
Location
Stourbridge
First Name
Dave
I forgot to ask earlier (b****y typical!).

I have Vallejo Plastic Putty, Tamiya White and Grey putties, Squadron Green and Milliput. Which one of these would be easiest to use to fill tiny gaps on a 3D printed kit?
 

Dave Ward

Still Trying New Things
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
8,651
Points
113
Location
South Gloucestershire
First Name
David
I forgot to ask earlier (b****y typical!).

I have Vallejo Plastic Putty, Tamiya White and Grey putties, Squadron Green and Milliput. Which one of these would be easiest to use to fill tiny gaps on a 3D printed kit?
I'd say, depends on how big a gap is tiny! I like Squadron Green - never used any Tamiya putty, can't get on with Vallejo, and Milliput is good for larger gaps, but wasteful. ( I always mix too much! ). I use Perfect Plastic Putty, being water soluble, it's easy to clean up with a damp cotton bud before it sets hard, reducing clean up time. I'd go with Green - but I'd experiment on how well it stick to the resin first. Most of my recent use is with FDM printing & no idea if the resin can be treated the same way!
Dave
 

Neil Merryweather

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
4,425
Points
113
Location
London
First Name
Neil
Hi Dave,it's an acrylic resin so I imagine an acrylic filler would work. At work in the film industry I always used car body filler - that works for sure.
 

Tim Marlow

Little blokes aficionado
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
16,781
Points
113
Location
Somerset
First Name
Tim
Cellulose Car body filler and Tamiya filler are quite similar in my experience. It is very good for shallow holes and depressions because it sticks very well and can be sanded to a fine edge when dry. Filler from the “Mr” range (probably called Mr filling putty, but I can’t remember ) is also good at this. PPP Acrylic filler doesn’t stick that well in my experience so is best kept for cracks and seams, where it excels due to easy clean up. Large mechanical strength filling is where I’d use milliput, again cleaned up with water. I think if these fillers stick to smooth plastic and cast resin (which they do) then they should stick to printed resin.
Failing that, assume CA can be used for assembly, old school superglue and talc mix will probably work, but the clean up will be a little more difficult.
 

Gern

'Stashitis' victim
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
9,703
Points
113
Location
Stourbridge
First Name
Dave
Thanks for all the replies folks.

The only gap I have is where the two halves of the tractor body join and it's very small. I'll be joining them with CA, and I've just bought some with a brush applicator. I'll be using plenty so there's a chance that will fill the gap anyway. If not, it seems I should be able to use any of the putties I have as the thing is made from some sort of acrylic. I'll try the Vallejo first as that cleans up with water and a cotton bud so no sanding. Yippee!
 

langy71

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
1,559
Points
113
Location
Nottingham
First Name
Chris
The last resin figure I did I used Vallejo plastic putty ...(the white stuff) to close up a few very small join lines, works brilliantly on small gaps, for bigger stuff I'm used some 'revell' plasto stuff, (it's not bad, dries quickly and can be thinned with revell contacta glue..
 
Top