Holding while airbrushing

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Stevekir

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Using White Tack "worms" to produce a feathered edge between two camo colours requires the AB to be at right angles to the surface (otherwise the paint finds its way too deeply under the worms). That is no problem with a flat surface, but my Lanc's long thin fuselage (top and two sides) obviously requires the fuselage to be rotated while spraying, at the same time holding it by touching only a small part, and securely. Here is what I came up with in only a few minutes:

View attachment 69937


But a puzzle. How did I get both hands in the picture in focus while looking at the camera's screen to get the left hand in position, and pressing the shutter button? I took the pic without the left hand, then covered the scene with a white cloth and re-shot with my left hand in position after moving the camera's area of focus to the left and up (over the hand) so that the camera focused on it, then cut out the hand and AB in Photoshop and superimposed it (and Photoshop Elements can do that). Clever, huh?

I like the way this hobby gives an opportunity to come up with ways to do things. I recently bought a bottom of the market single lens reflex camera (a Nikon D3100) and it has lots of bells and whistles to do fancy stuff. (It's also stuffed with about a hundred electronic settings!)

Worms.jpg
 
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Paul P

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clever stuff Steve, theres nothing like a good old fashioned bit of ingenuity ;)

Paul
 

Ian M

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I bet that Nikon has a timer release on it as well.... I like your solution better though. It is often a wish of mine to have an extra hand or two when building. One to hold the kit, one for the part, one for the glue!

Ian M
 

Gern

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\ said:
Using White Tack "worms" to produce a feathered edge between two camo colours requires the AB to be at right angles to the surface (otherwise the paint finds its way too deeply under the worms). That is no problem with a flat surface, but my Lanc's long thin fuselage (top and two sides) obviously requires the fuselage to be rotated while spraying, at the same time holding it by touching only a small part, and securely. Here is what I came up with in only a few minutes:View attachment 69045

But a puzzle. How did I get both hands in the picture in focus while looking at the camera's screen to get the left hand in position, and pressing the shutter button? I took the pic without the left hand, then covered the scene with a white cloth and re-shot with my left hand in position after moving the camera's area of focus to the left and up (over the hand) so that the camera focused on it, then cut out the hand and AB in Photoshop and superimposed it (and Photoshop Elements can do that). Clever, huh?

I like the way this hobby gives an opportunity to come up with ways to do things. I recently bought a bottom of the market single lens reflex camera (a Nikon D3100) and it has lots of bells and whistles to do fancy stuff. (It's also stuffed with about a hundred electronic settings!)
Very clever. Just like Ernie's wig - you can't see the join!

Gern
 

eddiesolo

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Good idea Steve. Many years ago, some of you may remember there was a plastic and metal adjustable rig for models with various clamps that moved in and out and up and down and then rotated so you good add parts, paint etc. Great piece of kit but very expensive IIRC, not seen any around so maybe they didn't take off...or maybe I am dreaming and made it up :confused:

I also like to see Steve that you're getting at least one of your 5 a day:D

Si:smiling3:
 
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Stevekir

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\ said:
I bet that Nikon has a timer release on it as well.... I like your solution better though. It is often a wish of mine to have an extra hand or two when building. One to hold the kit, one for the part, one for the glue!Ian M
Yes, it has a timed release. But the left hand would have been very out of focus if I had done the picture in one shot.
 

Steve Brodie

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\ said:
Yes, it has a timed release. But the left hand would have been very out of focus if I had done the picture in one shot.
Not that it really matters in the scheme of things, but depending on where you set your focal point (manually) and your DOF you would be surprised how much you would have got in focus, but it wouldnt have been so much fun as your route :smiling3:

Cracking idea by the way :smiling3:
 
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