Jack's Border 1/35 U-Boat Conning Tower

[Jack L]

Hi Jack, Good to see something really different being blogged and who doesn’t like a U-boat!

Superb work with the upgrades and lights…..keep at it and I’m sure this is going to be a great display piece

That looks very good Jack.

all coming along very nicely Jack looking so good
[ i won,t one ]

Looking fantastic Jack.

Fabulous work Jack. Love the detail work and the lighting It really brings this kit to life.
Cheers
Paul

Thank you all. Very kind words.

Not making hugely noticeable progress, just small bits and pieces. However can't get my head around this on the torpedo feed. Assume it to be a mistake:

That supporting bar is supposed to fit into that hole. It can't and it won't. No where near. Assuming I have made the rest up correctly?

 

[Mark1]

Could you just turn it round?

 

[Neil Merryweather]

is it not for the other side?

 

[Jack L]

Could you just turn it round?

There is a protruding bar that slots into the slide. Only one way of orientating it.

is it not for the other side?

No a completely different structure on the other side, which fits perfectly.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Clutching at straws…….
Nothing else in the sprue that would do the job? Might be a part for a different version?

 

[monica]

looking at it like Mark1 said ,the far side the support bar is facing backwards ,by the look of it and
this close side is the other way,,

 

[Jack L]

looking at it like Mark1 said ,the far side the support bar is facing backwards ,by the look of it and
this close side is the other way,,

I do see what you and Mark mean. I’ll have another look tomorrow. Thanks all

 

[Jack L]

Ok thanks for the observations, you were all right and it’s supposed to be the other way round. Were I was confused, there should be a protrusion that has snapped off somewhere, so I’ll need to scratch something there which shouldn’t be too difficult, although I was going to paint and weather the slide separately…my need to rethink that now.
And with the guns made up (I have seen less complicated stand alone kits), that is construction complete. Next step is painting.

The AA gun was a pain in the arse. I could not get that mesh to fit at all….so some more ‘tactical damage’ has been added.

Started painting the torpedo, not a single picture seems to show a consistent colour scheme.

 

[monica]

so glad that you got it sorted,it happens at times you just dont see it,
look forward to more updates

 

[Mini Me]

Looks good Jack....That deck gun looks the Bomb

 

[Jack L]

Waiting for some paint from John, so been painting a couple of the figures. Not sure about them if I'm honest. Primed in black, sprayed white from above and then went with a glaze in the respective colours. I don't think it's worked. Found it hard to get the glaze consistency right, it was either 'bubbly' and blotchy, or too think and lost it's transparency. Was not as easy as youtube suggested (as per).

 

[Jim R]

Painted figure looks fine. I find a drop of flow enhancer and some retarder helps acrylic glazes to cover evenly.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Figures look ok to me Jack.
I’m guessing you diluted with water? The blotchy effect occurs because you have over diluted the paint. This is worse with lighter colours because of the white component of the pigment.
Regarding glazes, it’s best to dilute with glaze medium, and use darker colour’s because they work more effectively. If you want to glaze with lighter colours inks are more reliable, but still not great. My hint would be to paint the piece with the lighter colour then glaze it to add the shadows.

 

[Jack L]

Painted figure looks fine. I find a drop of flow enhancer and some retarder helps acrylic glazes to cover evenly.

Thanks Jim...had another go using flow improver instead of water. Worked much better!

Figures look ok to me Jack.
I’m guessing you diluted with water? The blotchy effect occurs because you have over diluted the paint. This is worse with lighter colours because of the white component of the pigment.
Regarding glazes, it’s best to dilute with glaze medium, and use darker colour’s because they work more effectively. If you want to glaze with lighter colours inks are more reliable, but still not great. My hint would be to paint the piece with the lighter colour then glaze it to add the shadows.

Yes diluted with water (as per nightshift). The main colour I'm going with is a German Grey, mixed with a tiny bit of tan. Have gone again with some flow improver instead of water and it's definitely worked better. Thank you.

Now comes the battle with skin tones. I want them pretty pale looking, but may have gone a bit too pale with the skipper. The fellow far tight is a better shade. The other two have only had a first coat.

 

[monica]

nice going with the figures ,never easy

 

[PaulinKendal]

Just caught up with this - what a fabulous build! The scratch building is fantastic - attacking a kit like this must take a great at deal of courage, and plenty of skill to not muck it all up.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Don't sweat the paleness of the flesh tones, I think it's a valid idea.
If you're happy with the actual painting side, leave well alone and just bear it in mind for next time.

 

[Andy the Sheep]

The figures look fine to me. The skipper could be a fair/red haired guy, thus with a paler complexion than his crew.

 

[stillp]

The skipper looks just fine to me.
Pete

 

[rtfoe]

Not all that uniform, but not sure that will be noticed when in place. May need a couple more when I see what will and won't be seen.View attachment 470308

Well done Jack. I did the same for my 1/72 Walrus catapult leveling handles...saves time and money. Haven't been on your post lately but had I, would have edged you to do it this way.
To make same size circles I would wrap the wire a couple of times round the dowel and snip along one side.
I bet it was more satisfying making em.

Cheers,
Wabble