Monogram 1/24 plastic/diecast Packard dual cowl pheaton

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Alan 45

Alan 45

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Alan
Flash can be pulled off with a pair of pliers or cut off with a hacksaw then filled with a metal file I'm sure you could get one for that size , I'd just wash it then coat it with a metal primer b&q do there own versions cheep enough , the only glue I can recommend is superglue but there is probably a proper type you could buy

You are free then to paint it I would use enamels if brush painting or AB/rattle can is spraying
 
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Bunkerbarge

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I would use an epoxy glue. The rapid ones would do as they set in around five minutes so can be pretty useful. I find them better than cyano as they tend to be easier to manage but I'm sure there are those who would prefer cyano. Cyano can be bought in liquid or gel form.

Be carefull though when you get to the windows as cyano will cloud the clear plastic unless you have a type designed not to do so. Most will use a PVA type glue (white wood glue) for the windows.

For painting I would go down to Halfords or a car body place. You can get off the shelf rattle cans of primer and the whole world of top coat finishes and colours so take your pick. If the surface is bad you might want to use a filler first or even a self leveling primer.
 
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Yes that's what I'm worried about the kit has been knocking around a while and I think it was stored somewhere damp as the metal is quite badly corroded.
 
ojays

ojays

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A light rub over with a nylon/plastic scotch brite and washing up liquid to remove any oils/contamination.

Wipe with panel wipe, using a lint free cloth,

Then I would use an etch primer before any other coats, to give a chemical grip for further coats.

Basically deal with it as you would any real car made of metal or alloy.

Having helped restore some old die-cast models in the past, this is the system we used!

Gregg
 
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Deleted member 3568

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Thanks for all the good advice will take it all on board.
 
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Tone M

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Best thing i find for diecast are small files, 400 grit wet-and-dry and wire wool.

Like Richard says, pva is best for windows, but can take a while to dry so clamp it well.

Also, you'll be truly amazed at just hoe good the final top coat of paint will turn out!

(if you can find a colour close to what you want, Hycoat car paint is as good as it gets!)
 
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Hi all here is a small update started cleaning the bodywork, think I will have a lot of work here as the fit is not very good

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Sprayed the engine black as per instructions.

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I want to do a good job of this so thought I would do some research only to find there is no black on the engine, its green and silver so had to repaint it.

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so that is where I am now.

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V1P3R

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Will be watching this! I fancy a diecast model at some point!

Sent from me to you
 
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tanktrack

tanktrack

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I build white metal ships in 1200 scale and I find after building that final rub with isopropyl alcohol removes any greasy finger marks and wax
 
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Deleted member 3568

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Thanks for that tip Steve never built a diecast kit before so welcome any tips.
 
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Deleted member 3568

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Hi guys and gals here is tonight's update.

I drilled out the Distributor so I could put the HT leads on

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then I made the HT leads out of thin solder wire

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then I cut them to length and squished the ends to make the tabs which go on the spark plugs.

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then I noticed on the ref photos I've got there are some rivets and badges on the starter motor and the solinoid so I added them tooView attachment 87518

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Deleted member 3568

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Just had a catastrophe with this sanded a bit of the corrosion off the body and resprayed it and all the paint blistered up (don't think I left it long enough before I painted it again) got it soaking in thinners now (insert swear word)
 
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Laurie

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Very interesting project KP and out of the usual here. Nice to see your efforts.

Laurie

Just to add nice to hear from you Steve (Kir). you have been missing. Laurie
 
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