Mr Paint - Review

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
No, not the Gunze paints who also use the Mr prefix, these are a new range of paint from Eastern Europe that are not yet available in the UK.

I have seem some comments about these paints that sparked my curiosity and in a moment of madness I shipped in a couple of bottles from Germany to try them out at a much higher cost than I would like. http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-colors-pigments-primer/mr-paint-superfine-inks-1/

So what got me interested?

Well firstly they are developed for use in an airbrush straight from the bottle and are so 'fine' that they are described as inks rather than paints. This means you can use a smaller a/b needle than standard model paints at a lower pressure to get some very fine a/b detailing done (in the hands of a more expert airbrusher than me that is!!)

Secondly they are bringing out more colours all the time and expanding their range very quickly. They are also focussing heavily on aircraft colours. Most of their range, apart from basic colours, are for modern Eastern Bloc jets but (and for me this is where it gets interesting), they have brought out a set of RLM shades for Luftwaffe aircraft. No doubt other WW2 colour will follow.

Thirdly. I have read good thing about how they spray and wanted to try them.

This is how they looked when they arrived:

View attachment 88073


On with the review:

Packaging:

They arrived in 30ml bottles and for me, building large scale aircraft, this is a good size compared to 17ml for the Vallejo I use at the moment, 10 ml for Tamiya and Gunze and 14ml for Humbrol. There are no eye dropper spouts like Vallejo, just an open bottle but they pour OK into the airbrush cap. I much prefer the eye dropper style as they are 'spillage proof' and much easier to dispense. These bottles are just too vulnerable to getting knocked over for my liking. These paints need a thorough shaking for which there is an agitator in the bottle, a nice touch Vallejo should learn from.

The Paint.

I have not ever seen paint with a consistency as thin as these and I have to agree this is much closer to the Indian Ink I sometimes use for a pin wash.

How they spray.

Initially I used the fuselage side from my spares box (Trumpeter Wildcat) and just sprayed the black straight onto it. My pic of this is very blurred so I am not showing it here as you can see little of what I found. I sprayed thin coats which looked very translucent to me and as the paint darkened whorls and swirls appeared in it. When it was dry I compared it to the unpainted half and realised the paint had emphasised marks left by the moulding process as plastic flowed into the mould. I believe that a combination of my not washing the plastic, no primer, the very thin paint and somewhat glossy finish brought out these minute imperfections in the plastic.

Next I cleaned with ipa and primed a wing from the same kit (with the same imperfections) with Vallejo Bronze Green primer. This is the proper test as I always prime before painting. What differed from my normal practise was not leaving the primed piece to cure and harden for 24 hours, instead I sprayed the black Mr Paint as soon as the primer was touch dry. I also made sure I shook the bottle a lot more first....

Once again the paint sprayed effortlessly in thin coats and inperfections in the plastic were brought out. That said it was a lot better than the first time and, I suspect, that had the primer cured properly first I would have had a better more even finish.

View attachment 88074


I waited for 30 minutes (on the bottle it says varnish after 30 mins so I used that as a drying time) and then sprayed the white. We all know how difficult white can be but not this one, it sprayed and covered perfectly in thin coats while exhibiting the same qualities I found with the black coat.

View attachment 88075


The coats were not even, showing as they did any underlying imperfections but I thought a varnish would cure that (it is my normal practise to varnish anyway, so no issues). I allowed the paint to dry the prescribed 30 mins but before spraying I ran my finger down the paint and found a superb smooth even surface. I then sprayed Vallejo matt varnish. When that dried I found it did the trick, a perfect finish.

View attachment 88076


Cost analysis

To ignore the shipping costs these paints cost 5.90 Euros each and on the conversion that was £4.72 which sound a lot but remember that is for 30mls. So I did a comparison with Vallejo which come in 17ml bottles, Tamiya and Gunze (10ml bottles) and Humbrol (14mls).

I used the prices in Scale Model Shop before the discount is applied so it is like for like full retail price and pro-ratered to get a price equivalent to Vallejo's 17 ml bottles and it works out as follows:

Vallejo £2.20

Mr Hobby £3.40

Tamiya £2.72

Humbrol £1.94

The Mr Paint reviewed here works out at £2.67 consequently fits right in the middle of the price bands.

Conclusion

I would thoroughly recommend them, despite their quirks. I will wait until they become more easily available through UK stockists and, if course, wait until the range expands to cover more WW2 aircraft but I love the way they spray along with the finish you can achieve and will certainly get them in future, but not from Germany....

IMG_20140903_201247.jpg

IMG_20140903_204311.jpg

IMG_20140903_205541.jpg

IMG_20140903_212927.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
To add.

These paints are more like Gunze than Vallejo or Tamiya. The a/b cleaned up well with ipa and Vallejo a/b cleaner but not so well with a water based mix.

Of course I have not checked out the camo colours to see if their interpretation of the RLM shades is 'accurate'. I just do not think that this is an issue. For WW2 aircraft, such as I build, the effects of weathering in different weather conditions, wear and tear, dirt and the vagaries of wartime paint production means that you cannot really claim one manufacturers interpretation of RLM02 is more accurate than another manufacturers.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
A further addtion.....

Smell - these are not odourless like the Vallejos I am used to. they are a bit like Gunze in odour.... not nice to breathe in.

It is essential to have a well ventilated space, to mask up and ideally use an extractor. Yes, I know, we should do that for Vallejo as well but some of us don't bother for short quick sessions, but with these paints much more care is needed....
 
B

bluebottle

Guest
I noticed the smell issue , rather akin to Alclads, use in a well ventilated room.....

I got a few gratis recently, and went for Russian cockpit/ wheel well colours.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
\ said:
I noticed the smell issue , rather akin to Alclads, use in a well ventilated room.....I got a few gratis recently, and went for Russian cockpit/ wheel well colours.
How did you find them? Do other colours have the same almost translucent quality?
 

stona

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
11,502
Points
113
First Name
Steve
If they smell like Alclad it begs the question are they solvent based acrylic lacquers?

I'm only saying because many people (not me, I'm not bothered) have switched to water based acrylics to avoid precisely the smell issue mentioned.

Surely a price comparison must allow for thinning? My WEM Colourcoats cost £2.50 for a 14ml tin, but I get about 25ml of thinned paint from each one.

Nonetheless I'm definitely interested in these, so thanks for the review and bringing them to our attention, it is most useful. I will give them a go when I get a chance.

Cheers

Steve
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
1,276
Points
113
First Name
Mike
According to a few other reviews I've read, the paints are acrylic, yet compatible (mixable) with Mr Color lacquers. All reviews recommend a white primer as a base, since the paints are so transparent that any other underlying hue will affect the paint colour. Which begs the question, what if I want to spray soft-edged dark green over dark earth (or vice versa)? Won't the dark earth show through the green? I can see them being ideal for one colour subjects, or where colors can be hard-masked, but maybe not for mottling or soft demarcations.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
Mike - I managed to spray white over a bronze green primer and over the black Mr Paint and you really cannot see any demarcation between them or any change of hue as a result. Like anything else I would expect a soft edge to blend as per normal. It might be worth having a read through the link I put to the German supplier, it actually provides a lot of information.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
Steve - yes of course you are right in respect of thinning, but as Vallejo Model Air is a/b ready and does not need to be thinned it is a very valid price comparison between them two. My impression is that the finish on the Mr Paint is better than Vallejo and easier to achieve.
 

stona

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
11,502
Points
113
First Name
Steve
Thanks Barry. I'm not a big fan of Vallejo (ducking the brickbats from Laurie) as I've given up on water based acrylics and returned to enamel paints, but I'm always interested in something new. I'd like to see their RLM colours. I agree that an exact match (to what exactly?) isn't that important, but I'd like them to be a good starting point from an artistic rather than technical point of view. WEM have certainly positioned the bar very high in this respect and I've been recently impressed by Modelmaster too.

I never did get any brand of water based acrylic to match the finish I could achieve with an enamel, but that might say more about me than the paint :smiling3:

Cheers

Steve
 

john

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
6,065
Points
113
Location
Halifax
First Name
John
I looked at stocking this a few months back but they worked out too expensive to import them
 
L

Laurie

Guest
Very nice presentation Barry a lot of work and time in that with plenty of food for thought. One nice thing is the thinness which should enable better airbrush work close to.

\ said:
Thanks Barry. I'm not a big fan of Vallejo (ducking the brickbats from Laurie) Steve
Tut tut Steve. :P

Laurie
 
B

bluebottle

Guest
cover power is quite good, and I just used alclad cleaner to clean the brush...

John's right about the price though...
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
I thought I would update this thread to say that they have now brought out a range of RAF WW2 colours, looks fairly comprehensive too with all the main colours included.

http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-colors-pigments-primer/mr-paint-superfine-inks-2/
 
S

Stevekir

Guest
Interesting. While browsing the Uschi van der Rosten site I came across a powder which when buffed on gives a chrome finish:

http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments/

John's shop sells it:

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=uschi+metal+polish

Given my failure (so far) to get Alclad II to give a good chrome, I will try this powder. It seems to me that a buffing process with a cotton bud would be much more controllable than coats of paint that have to be applied in a certain way.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,060
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
\ said:
Interesting. While browsing the Uschi van der Rosten site I came across a powder which when buffed on gives a chrome finish:http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/polishing-powders-metallic-pigments/

John's shop sells it:

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=uschi metal polish

Given my failure (so far) to get Alclad II to give a good chrome, I will try this powder. It seems to me that a buffing process with a cotton bud would be much more controllable than coats of paint that have to be applied in a certain way.
Steve - have you tried the Humbrol rattle can and Gunze buffables? I used these on my Ki61 and they produced an excellent metallic effect. I did do a thread last week with some pics.
 
S

Stevekir

Guest
\ said:
Steve - have you tried the Humbrol rattle can and Gunze buffables? I used these on my Ki61 and they produced an excellent metallic effect. I did do a thread last week with some pics.
Thanks. And your thread last week was very helpful. I have ordered from John the Uschi van der Rosten chrome paint. I will also test the Gunze buffables. My interest is in chrome and brass finishes whereas Humbrol's site states that their metallic spray cans are for aluminium or steel only.
 
S

Stevekir

Guest
I have now tried the Uschi van der Rosten "Chrome-Type" polishing powder, item no. 4008, 25 mL, from John's shop, shown below. I airbrushed a sample object with Tamiya gloss black Synthetic Lacquer TS-14 (a spray can). The paint surface had a few defects so I sanded it with several grades of Micromesh then polished it with polishing cream to get a high gloss. Having masked part of the object I put a very small amount of powder on a cotton bud and rubbed the object gently. Not much rubbing was required and the shine appeared immediately. The cotton bud easily got into the angles caused by the fins. (On my first attempt on another part, not shown, I applied the powder only 24 hours after the paint and found that the surface was slightly scratched and in the direction of rubbing, probably caused by the powder particles.) This time the object (shown below) was left for 48 hours to harden, partly on a radiator, and no scratches appeared after the powder was applied.

It is always very difficult to produce a photo of a very shiny object which shows it as it looks to the eyeball, especially if it is chromed, and these photos do not do it justice although a movie is always better than a still photo at displaying shiny objects. In the images the large horizontal oval bright spot is much wider than in the original, is much less intense, its reflections are not as bright and hard as my chromed object (they look like white paper in the images), and the interface between the reflections and the black are not as sharp. Also, the scratches and other imperfections that you can see are due to the object before applying the powder. The edges of the fins show a dark stripe but in fact the shine extends right up to and on the edge.

However, when looked at by eye in various lights (daylight, general room light, under a more concentrated desk lamp), the result is definitely a convincing chrome.

The powder could be used for quite large parts, and also for small ones, especially those with a complex surface like a 1/16 car door handle or window winder for which Bare Metal Foil would not be suitable (because of the complex surface). I think it could be used for the window and windscreen chromed trim of the many civilian car models shown on this forum, even in the smaller scales, but the trim would need masking around it. A good thing about this product is that its application is simple and fully controlled (unlike airbrushing), there is no need to clean an airbrush, and its inexpensive.

Click on each image to get the movie (top) and the still (bottom). {Message Edited}



View attachment 91359

Shiney.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
2,186
Points
83
First Name
Aaron
OMG Steve, in the video that looks like cold steel.
 
Top