BarryW:I wil follow your 1, 2, 3 (although I will try
stona's meths which I have in my garage).
tecdes said:
Like Barry not had any problems at all.
Matter of interest Steve did you prepare the surface by wet & dry. The plastic surface of the parts is very shiny. Obviously with wet & dry it scores in minute form the surface which provides a first class surface for the primer to adhere to. The wet & dry will not affect the resulting smoothness of the primer.
I used wet or dry, but used it dry: 400 grit then 1500 grit. (I have since found info that sanding it wet keeps dust down.) Phil Flory's excellent videos show the use of a sanding sponge then a polishing sponge. But they would polish the plastic and remove the good surface for the primer that you mention.
Any comment on that?
Also what temperature did you spray in & what temperature was the paint ? If you sprayed in a cold place after turning the heater on the paint does not reach a good temperature. Add to that was the primed model left in the cold or a warm atmospere ? Did you mist coat (ie thin coat) the original coat ?
My workroom was pleasantly warm before, during and after, and so was the model, the primer and the
airbrush.
I did not mist a thin coat. Perhaps I put too much on. A problem that I find is that the primer is very nearly the same colour as the plastic and it is very difficult to see it going on, unlike with colour. I know that you can get black primer, but one day I will experiment by adding a tiny amount of (water-based I think) food dye. But perhaps that would be unwise until I have a lot more experience.
You can thin with Vallejo Thinners. But if it is airbrushing OK without clogging I would keep to the full coat. If you thin, depending on the %, the you may have to apply another coat.
There was no clogging (I have a 0.5 needle). I will respray a full coat over the areas affected.
Thanks for the Vallejo excerpt. Encouraged by that, I discovered a mine of info at:
FAQs