Painting the frame of canopy's...any advice?

5

5thelement

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I wondered if anyone has any advice for painting the frame around the "glass" on canopy's. I just realised how difficult it's going to be lol The obvious thing to me is to use masking tape on the glass panes and then paint the frame once those parts are masked off, but im having a hard time masking it as some of the bits are so small.

Dont suppose anyone has any tips? im guessing i'll just need to persevere with trying to mask off the glass though.

Thanks :smiling3:
 
B

Bunkerbarge

Guest
I have to say that years ago I would try to persevere by hand with a fine brush and a load of patience but you really can't beat masking.

There are a number of ways of acheiving the mask though from sellotape, through masking tape to specially purpose manufactured masks. The manufactured ones are good but expensive and not that much better than you can make yourself.

At least with masking you can try again and again to your hearts content until you get it right before committing to paint.

Just bear in mind that sellotape tends to adhere quite strongly and can leave gum behind but it does have a thinner edge. Masking tape is a lot more flexible and can be bought in fine line form which is very flexible and a lot easier to use.

Finally you could use a masking fluid. This works by first masking the frame itself, obviously a lot easier than masking the panes, then paint the area with a masking fluid, purchased from any model shop. You then remove the hard mask and paint the frame. Finally the masking fluid is removed with a sharp blade and a perfect frame is left.

It all depends on the size and complexity of the window you are doing as to what you might feel is the best method.
 

wonwinglo

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Try this idea which I have used successfully scores of times-

Get a piece of glass and stick onto this some ordinary masking tape,paint the tape the rquired colour of the canopy frame,next with a steel rule and a single edged razor blade cut strips the required width ( it is surprising how narrow you can get with a keen blade ) take a toothpick and carefullly roll a small amount of one of the narrow strips at one end,lift this onto the canopy and pull the painted tape across the canopy,keep going until you have completed the framing then trim off the edges,next dip the entire canopy into Johnsons Klear/Future and allow to drain off.

Once dry you will have the most realistic framed canopy,plus the Johnsons will not only have sealed the strips but given the whole lot a proper optical look about it.

Painting canopies by hand is a very difficult task that rarely looks correct,the flexible masking tape simulates the effect well.
 
5

5thelement

Guest
Thanks alot for the advice, much appreciated.

I think i'll give the straight forward masking another shot and see how that goes first (not too well im guessing lol)

I've not heard of the masking fluid before, something i'll need to look into.

wonwinglo - thanks for the advice aswell, sounds like a good method actually. Where do i get Johnsons Klear? im guessing any supermarkets should have it?
 
R

rjwood_uk

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yes about £3 a bottle (one bottle will last a lifetime as you simply dip the parts in, and let the exess drip back into the bottle!)

should be in the cleaning section.

e.g. kitchen townl, washing liquid...e.tc

great stuff!!!
 

john

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Cheers' date=' does it have any other uses in modelling?[/quote']It's also a floor shine :smiling3:

It gives your floor a brilliant shine and keeps it easy to clean :music_too
 
B

Bunkerbarge

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That is if you have any spare time with all the models you have to make!!
 
B

Bunkerbarge

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Barry,

The tape idea sounds interesting as it will also give a bit of releaf to the frame. I don't know how much the texture of the masking tape will show but I will certainly have a play with that at some point.

I can see it working reaaly well with something like an Me 109 or Me 110 canopy which are quite square in design.

Maybe it would look even better if you cut it into strips first then painted it so that the edges were all painted as well.
 
R

rjwood_uk

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yea its a really good idea, i have a 110 to make (some cheap 1:144 one i found brand new in a charity shop)

the canopy in the kit has about 3 supports going across it where as we all know it is ment to have a lot more! so im going to have a go at the tape idea, although as richard says, cutting it first is probably a good idea!

time to get out my sergical scalpol!
 

wonwinglo

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No need to do that chaps an over complication,the Johnsons seals against the edges nicely and slightly darkens the edge,even with larger scales you will not notice it,masking tape cut so thinly has remarkable curvature properties.

The danger of cutting then painting is that no matter how careful you are the paint will creep underneath,you need all the adhesion possible at these widths,once the Johnsons has cured the adhesive will probably degrade over time but good old Johnsons makes a good key against the plastic.

Someone is even marketing a similar thing to this in America,all it is,is the pre cut tape ! and by the way the best cutting edge that you will get hold of is one of those industrial hacksaw blades,the teeth which go either way stop the rule from sliding,any small engineering firm will throw them out when worn,go forth and salvage,they are so useful for cutting narrow strips of wood,film,plasticard etc etc.
 
B

Bunkerbarge

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I have never even tried the Johnsons Clear yet!!

I have so may things to play with when I get home.
 
N

Nigel.D

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Right folks !!! cannopy masking is an art in itself !!! there are numerous ways to achieve this . One is thin strips of masking tape 2 is using copydex and tape (this is my prefered method if you spray the interior clour first it shows thru on the inside) 3 metal foil this can give really sharp lines but is a buggar to clean the adhesive off! Do not repeat do not attempt to hand paint it doesnt work and can spoil an otherwise perfect model!!!!! I think i can hear a tutorial coming on lol
 
P

Pogo

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Try filling in the space between the canopy frames with PVA . Its easy to remove and leaves no residue.
 
5

5thelement

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Thanks for all the tips...just need to decide what to do now lol hmm

Is Humbrol Maskol worth buying?
 

wonwinglo

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***It is just latex,I use Copydex it does exactly the same job,do not apply it with your best brushes ! use a rubber 'artists colour shaper' tool obtainable from your local art shop,it has a shaped rubber tip,you can easily roll off the latex when finished,this stuff will wreck brushes in seconds.

Thanks for all the tips...just need to decide what to do now lol hmmIs Humbrol Maskol worth buying?
 
N

Nigel.D

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If your using copy dex on canopys use a tooth pick to apply it is tailor made for the job
 
5

5thelement

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In the end i persevered with masking tape, cutting tiny strips with a razor blade/scalpel and carefully placing them into position, i got all the glass panels covered pretty well (i hope!) and i've painted it now, so i'll keep my fingers crossed and post a picture when i remove the tape

*praying it looks atleast half decent* lol
 
B

Bunkerbarge

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I'm looking forward to seeing this. I can't remember the last time I did an aircraft canopy but I would guess it would be in the region of 30 years.

Nowadays I glue a few pieces of wood to a plywood bulkhead and "Voila!" bridge windows.

I am looking forward to having a play with new techniques such as Decal solutions, Johnsons Kleer, and airbrushing with my Tamiya Spit.
 
5

5thelement

Guest
Well it's done, and i'd be lying if i said i wasn't a bit disapointed, it's far from perfect and could be better, im just trying to look at it like "it could be worse!"

I obviously never masked it too well, and for some reason some small bits of masking tape seemed to turn all gooey and proved a bit difficult to remove again.

I'll post some pictures up later (need to go out right now) but they're kind of embarassing up close lol :sad:

Oh well, guess i'll put it down to experience and hope the next time turns out better.
 
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