Returning to the hobby - looking for airbrush advice :)

Joined
Nov 17, 2022
Messages
1
Points
0
Location
asuScuLteNTICAlenDedOWlag
First Name
Brian
Used to build and paint scale models & games workshop stuff many years ago.

Father-in-law (damn him!) has gotten me back into it, so far just built 3 or 4 cheap and simple kits to get back into it.

Next project is a 1/32 Tamiya King Tiger, but I know I'll struggle to do it justice with a brush.

So looking for airbrush ideas, no huge budget around the £100 mark.
 

langy71

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
1,559
Points
113
Location
Nottingham
First Name
Chris
Personally, I use Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes, I've got both the Ultra which is an 'entry level' airbrush and the Infinity CR Plus which is a bit more refined... both have served me well for all my needs so far...

have a look here...

Blowy ya Painty Thingies
 

Tim Marlow

Little blokes aficionado
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
16,797
Points
113
Location
Somerset
First Name
Tim
You will also need a compressor to supply air Brian, so factor that into your budget……and just to counterpoint Chris, I’m an Iwatta user, so explore their range as well.
 

adt70hk

I know its a bit sad but I like quickbuild kits!!!
SMF Supporter
Joined
Sep 4, 2019
Messages
9,506
Points
113
First Name
Andrew
Sparmax ones are a bit cheaper and work well for me. Plus their spares are often much cheaper than the other brands.
 

David Lovell

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
1,500
Points
113
Location
Poole Dorset
First Name
David
Check out the Scale Model Shop flick through the airbrush pages ,some good little set ups compressor and airbrush for just over a hundred pounds ,perfectly service able they work fine ,I've got twenty five quid airbrushes I use as much as my expensive ones ,and before all the yeh but replies start I know expensive ones are nice I don't deny that you can feel the difference but if you've got the paint mixed to the correct consistency and your air pressure is set correctly cheaper air brushes work fine untill you feel you want to or can afford to move up to a better model. Remember you can buy the most expensive golf clubs out there but it doesn't mean your play better. Dave
 

BattleshipBob

Bob, bob, bobing along!
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
6,212
Points
113
First Name
Bob
Sparmax are good, I think part of Iwata. I also use Iwata and there trigger type, very good. But there's a good few to look at
 

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,834
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
You could also get one of the cheap Chinese all-in-one airbrush packages, where you spend about a quarter to a third of what a good brush and compressor will cost. It may not be high quality but from what I’ve seen and read, they seem pretty good value for money. You can always invest a lot more money later on when you find you hit the limit of that the airbrush is capable of.
 

Gern

'Stashitis' victim
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 17, 2009
Messages
9,705
Points
113
Location
Stourbridge
First Name
Dave
Can't add much to what the guys have already said except you need to be careful what you put in the cheaper brushes. Some solvents you may use as cleaners will damage the seals.

More expensive brushes use something like Teflon for their seals which are much more resistant to chemicals - but even then there can be issues. I have an H&S Ultra which I'm extremely pleased with and have no intentions of replacing - but the air cap has a rubber O-ring seal which I destroyed when I used cellulose thinners to clean out some stubborn paint. Removing the air cap before using the thinners cured that problem.
 

David Lovell

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
1,500
Points
113
Location
Poole Dorset
First Name
David
Can't add much to what the guys have already said except you need to be careful what you put in the cheaper brushes. Some solvents you may use as cleaners will damage the seals.

More expensive brushes use something like Teflon for their seals which are much more resistant to chemicals - but even then there can be issues. I have an H&S Ultra which I'm extremely pleased with and have no intentions of replacing - but the air cap has a rubber O-ring seal which I destroyed when I used cellulose thinners to clean out some stubborn paint. Removing the air cap before using the thinners cured that problem.
Good valid point to be aware of Dave, must admit never had it happen to me and I almost exclusively use mr hobby tool cleaner for all my mopping up even on my cheap airbrushes perhaps I'm a bit jammie.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,042
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
I would personally recommend not going cheap. Buy cheap and buy twice.

My recommendations are:
1/ Spend approx £100 on the airbrush and as previously mentioned Iwata and Harder and Steenbeck are hard to beat as are the Gunze Proton range. You won’t regret this on a number of levels. Make sure the brush is gravity fed with a needle size of 0.3 to 0.4 for general useage.

2/ Get a compressor with a tank. It need not be expensive but a tank means that the compressor motor is not working all the time you are spraying and it means that you won’t get pulsing either. In this case a cheap Chinese compressor can work well for you such as the AS186.
These are often bundled with cheap air brushes, if that’s the case then I would advise either throw the cheap airbrush away or just use it for primers.

3/ Paints. First of all an ‘airbrush ready’ paint is highly recommended to reduce or even eliminate worries over thinning ratios. There is a steep learning curve using an airbrush and if you can reduce one of the variables it will help speed up that curve.

Choose, I would suggest, from two brands of two very different types of paint that both have a very wide colour range so there will never be a need to mix colours.

Vallejo Model Air, these are water based and, as such, do not smell. It is that lack of smell that is the big advantage of these. You still get particles so it’s important to wear a mask when spraying. These can be problematical in use though, some love them and some hate them. These have adhesion problems (as do all water based) so you need to use a good primer (Stynylrez is ideal). The paint gets touch dry quite quickly but a take days to fully cure and that important for things like masking over and doing weathering treatments. You can also suffer from ‘tip dry’ so you need to use retarder to reduce the problem. How these behave varies for each user simply because humidity issues really affect these paints, hence then being rather like marmite, either you love them or hate them.

The second type of paint I would recommend are lacquer based. There is no doubt that lacquers are by far the best paints to use through the airbrush.

There are no tip dry problems to clog the airbrush, they dry very quickly and are ready to mask over in 30 minutes (that’s playing safe). They adhere well to plastic and spray like silk.

My preferred brand is MRP. They come in large 30ml bottles and in over 6 years using them I have not had to thin them even for fine lines or for a small needle sizes and I have never had to mix colours (except for affects). Spray these are a very low psi of 15 or lower (20-30 best for Vallejo).

There is only one downside of these, they smell. That means you really need to use a spray booth that vents outside.

There are other types of paint and, of course, many brands, but these are the two I would recommend that cover both ends of the spectrum, harder to use smell free, to smelly but the easiest to use.

One final bit of advice. Practise and be patient. As I said there is a long learning curve so don’t expect quick results and perfection. Persevere with it and you wont regret it.
 
Last edited:

Tim Marlow

Little blokes aficionado
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
16,797
Points
113
Location
Somerset
First Name
Tim
Good advice Barry. I would just add that if Brian goes down the lacquer route he will definitely need a decent spray mask to stop him breathing in the lacquer paint thinners as well.
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Messages
314
Points
43
First Name
Noel
It seems that Harder and Steenbeck, Iwata and Sparmax appear to be the 'in' airbrushes favoured by modellers at present.
There are two brands of quality airbrushes that have been around for much longer than the aforementioned three brands. Paasche, who I think invented the airbrush back in the 1920's and still going strong along with their latest Talon airbrushes. And of course Badger who set up shop back in the 1960's and also still going strong with a range of good quality airbrushes. I have owned and used Badger airbrushes since the mid 70's and found them to be an excellent product. Barwell is the UK Badger distributor so have a look at their range on the Barwell website. Paasche and Badger airbrushes are both made in the USA.
I would advise buying a quality airbrush for your exact needs, so take a cold hard look at what sort of airbrushing you want to do and buy the best you can afford to do the job.
 

BarryW

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
5,042
Points
113
Location
Dover
First Name
Barry
Good advice Barry. I would just add that if Brian goes down the lacquer route he will definitely need a decent spray mask to stop him breathing in the lacquer paint thinners as well.
That is, of course quite true Tim. In my case I don't wear a mask and rely on a very good, strong, venting spray booth to do the job. If I could get a mask that did not mist up my glasses then I would use one. I am now up to having tried four (one fitted and expensive) none of which worked for me. Fortunately even building larger scale aircraft my spraying sessions are not long ones!
 

Tim Marlow

Little blokes aficionado
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
16,797
Points
113
Location
Somerset
First Name
Tim
That is, of course quite true Tim. In my case I don't wear a mask and rely on a very good, strong, venting spray booth to do the job. If I could get a mask that did not mist up my glasses then I would use one. I am now up to having tried four (one fitted and expensive) none of which worked for me. Fortunately even building larger scale aircraft my spraying sessions are not long ones!
Are those full face or half face Barry? I too wear glasses and get no misting issues with my half face 3M 6000 series mask at all. This type……
 

stillp

SMF Supporter
Joined
Nov 17, 2016
Messages
7,228
Points
113
Location
Rugby
First Name
Pete
I also have both Jim, and I prefer the H & S! They're both good, so I think it comes down to which you're more familiar with.
Pete
 

AlexBB

SMF Supporter
Joined
Feb 6, 2022
Messages
31
Points
18
Location
Clangerland, West Midlands
First Name
Alex
My 2p worth.....

Firstly I would 100% second @BarryW 's comment "I would personally recommend not going cheap. Buy cheap and buy twice."

As Barry says, make sure you buy a half decent compressor WITH a tank, and make sure you drain the tank often. Depending on where your hobby room / space is located consider buying a 'BIG' compressor and siting in a garage or outside the room and run a long air line to your hobby space. This can be a real benefit with no noise inside your hobby room and with a bigger compressor such as one of the Oil Free units from Machine Mart you can use it for other tasks such as Tyre charging etc.. The Airmaster Tiger 7/260 is an ideal option for doing this... This may seem like a big investment but it will pay dividends in the longer run.
If you are just going for the hobby compressors then almost all of AS-186 style compressors use common parts and will give you a few years service. If you are looking for the long term then the better Hobby compressors such as the Sparmax TC-610H or 620X are excellent and very reliable units and spares are available (in the UK) which is not always the case for some cheaper units.

Airbrushes....Well I have lots, H&S (Harder & Steenbeck), Iwata, Iwata NEO, Mr Procon Boy, Cheap Chinese ones, Bartsharp, Badger, Paasche, a vintage Aztec Deluxe set and even a very old Humbrol / Airfix syphon fed contraption.
Having used Airbrushes extensively when I was at work and also for modelling purposes I have collected quite a few over the years.

All of these basically work fine, but the nuances are in the little details.

With the Harder & Steenbeck ones I have the Ultra 2 +1, The Evolution 2 +1, The Infinity 2 + 1 and a Colani.

Out of all the airbrushes I have I still tend to use the H&S Ultra as my daily 'Go To' workhorse, in 0.2 set up it does 90% of what I need and easily swaps to the 0.4 set up for Stynylrez or other heavier medium primers. In fact it does work with Stynylrez (un-thinned) in the 0.2 set up, just can't lay it down quite as heavy, but works for small parts.
The Ultra works with water based and cellulose based paints (They work out of the box with solvent based paints) and the PTFE Needle seals last years, but even if you need to change them they are super cheap and easy to change without too many special tools (123933 @ £8.00 for the needle seal tool), talking about parts, in fact all H&S parts are relatively cheap when compared to Iwata spares! Some individual O rings on Iwata are over £8 each and the comparative H&S ones are 90p!!
It is super easy to clean, you can full strip it in less than a minute and have it back up running in under 2 mins.. You do NOT need any tools at all to do a full strip (except needle seal) and it does not have any fiddly small threads for the nozzle.
The cup sizes are adequate and don't have fiddly threads to clean out (the Ultra has a push in friction fit cup, some don't like this but to me as an engineer it is simple and it works, so why change it!).
Mine is converted to the H&S 'Pinch tip' (Part 126784 for the 0.2 and 126794 for the 0.4) this is just my personal preference and is in no way essential, but I like it for back flowing when cleaning as it just makes life that little bit easier.
The new V2 needles are easy to identify and seem to work even better than the original ones, though I would say that is very subjective to tell the difference.
It is very worth noting that many of the parts in H&S Airbrushes are common right the way throughout the entire range, the needle and nozzle are exactly the same in the Ultra and the Infinity CRPlus.. So in real terms the working parts are the same from the entry level brush up to the top of the range, its just the bells and whistles or surface finishes and looks that differ..
John sells them and he keeps the spares...

On a final point, the air hose can make quite a difference in practice in using an airbrush, I find the thick and heavy fabric covered / braided ones to be a pain, too heavy and not very flexible, even the expensive ones and I often end up in a tangle around table legs or stuff on the bench. I much prefer the simple but good quality H&S air hose and fittings, this is simple high quality clear 6mm OD tubing with the H&S fittings. This is light weight and flexible, does not restrict your movements and you can see inside the tube if you are getting any moisture carry over.

I hope my ramblings help in your decisions.. Model On..
 

dalej2014

SMF Supporter
Joined
Aug 2, 2021
Messages
446
Points
93
Location
Suffolk
First Name
Dale

langy71

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
1,559
Points
113
Location
Nottingham
First Name
Chris
Read this thread with interest as I've also decided to get an airbrush (with no prior experience myself either).
I asked a modelling friend for advice and was pointed to this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Fengda-FD-186K-compressor-accessories/dp/B01984G4SU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=P7SN0G2N9GZL&keywords=airbrush+kit+with+compressor&qid=1669750910&sprefix=,aps,316&sr=8-5
With a respirator comes in at just over £100. I don't expect much from it, but if I find it to my liking will upgrade over time.
PS Hi everyone! Back to my Toon Tiger soon ️
I've got the same style of compressor, and it's served me more than adequately for a few years now..(I have added some thick sponge pads under the feet though.. just to cut down a little on vibration noise...)
 
Top