Revell 1/24 BMW M3 DTM 2012 " Bruno Spengler "

[Dave Ward]

This was bought several years ago, as a part built bargain model, from ebay. The chassis was made OK, but the bodywork had been painted very badly. This was a gamble, which I put into my stash, realising it would take some work to correct. Having worked on the Revell Ferrari F1 car, I've decided to pick this up, and give it a go!
The best way, albeit the most long winded method, is to rub the paint back with wet sanding sponges. I've done a trial on the painted bonnet, and it looks perfectly feasible. I've checked the other parts, and they seem to be complete - a few still in sealed bags, and the all important decals look to be perfect.
Dave

 

[Jim R]

Hi Dave
Well you certainly don't make life easy for yourself. You're up for a challenge. The only issue with sanding, I imagine, is the danger of losing detail.
I'll watch you progress with interest.
Jim

 

[Dave Ward]

Hi Dave
Well you certainly don't make life easy for yourself. You're up for a challenge. The only issue with sanding, I imagine, is the danger of losing detail.
I'll watch you progress with interest.
Jim

Jim,
yes, losing detail is a downside, but these cars are very aerodynamic & don't have many external features - luckily the wing mirrors, rear wing etc haven't been fitted - it's not something I'd care to do with a tank!
Dave

 

[langy71]

Jim,
yes, losing detail is a downside, but these cars are very aerodynamic & don't have many external features - luckily the wing mirrors, rear wing etc haven't been fitted - it's not something I'd care to do with a tank!
Dave

Is it not possible to 'strip' the paint using something like oven cleaner, or is it way to hard to even attempt this ?

 

[Dave Ward]

Is it not possible to 'strip' the paint using something like oven cleaner, or is it way to hard to even attempt this ?

Yes, but it's too messy - and I don't have anything to hand at the moment! Sanding the paint back is something I can do on my lap, whilst watching TV ( with a newspaper to catch the bits! ). I don't have a deadline to meet, so the cheaper, but longer way is how I'll do it
Dave

 

[langy71]

Yes, but it's too messy - and I don't have anything to hand at the moment! Sanding the paint back is something I can do on my lap, whilst watching TV ( with a newspaper to catch the bits! ). I don't have a deadline to meet, so the cheaper, but longer way is how I'll do it
Dave

no probs mate

 

[Dave Ward]

I made a start on the longish task of rubbing back the poor paint job. I finished off the bonnet, using a 320 grade emery cloth wet.

The main body work has had the initial rub down, with 180 grade paper, now I'll move onto the finer grade - I may have made the finish too shiny, I want a little surface roughness to allow te primer to key in.

The chassis & engine has been assemble & part painted ( extended wheel arches............. )


Fair number of parts are loose - I haven't decided whether to strip the chrome sprue back some are headlamp reflectors, so it may not be necessary.

The cab interior hasn't had any work done on it.

Clear bits still bagged
.......and the all important decals - in perfect shape............

There is an option to leave the bonnet loose, but the engine is largely covered with air ducting & heat shields, and can't be seen, so I'll concentrate on getting a good finish on the bodywork
Dave
edit - I should have said sanding sponges - not paper!

 

[peterairfix]

Nice work I am looking forward to seeing how the bodywork turns out.

 

[langy71]

Really like how the bodywork turned out Dave,
I can totally see what you mean about sanding it down, I must admit I did think it was gonna be a lot of hassle, but you've pulled it off mate...nice one

 

[Dave Ward]

Really like how the bodywork turned out Dave,
I can totally see what you mean about sanding it down, I must admit I did think it was gonna be a lot of hassle, but you've pulled it off mate...nice one

It took about 2hrs, but I was able to do it on my lap, watching the tv. This way you can control exactly how much to take off/leave & remove any surface imperfections at the same time. If I'd done it chemically, you'd have to go round & do that anyway!
Dave

 

[Jim R]

Well Dave it looks as if your decision to sand back the poor paint job has worked.
Jim

 

[Deleted member 3568]

Looks a good starting point now dave.

 

[adt70hk]

Well done Dave!

 

[Dave Ward]

Decided to remove the chrome plating from the grille parts.................

An overnight soak in diluted Tesco Lemon thick bleach left the parts clean. The other parts are reflectors for the lights, and will be behind glass, so they're left chrome.
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

After laying down a basecoat of Vallejo Model Air Black, and allowing to dry overnight, this morning I've misted on two thin coats of gloss.................

That's OK, ready for decals! - I'll seal them all with a couple more coats of gloss after.
I've tried various brands of acrylic gloss varnish, and not been very impressed! I gave this a try - I'd tried this a long time ago, can't remember why I stopped!

Goes on very nicely at 1bar, 0.3mm nozzle, very easy clean up. It says you can recoat in 20 minutes, but I've left a couple of hours, just to be safe. Got the car phase going strongly at the moment - I've got two more on the starting grid ( but that may change! )
Dave

 

[langy71]

Looking good Dave,

 

[Dave Ward]

One of the really poor things about Revell models is the crappy paint references! All paints are related back to the Revell paint range ( and nothing else ). If a desired colour isn't in the range, then they give a witches' brew to mix it, using their paints.
The interior of the BMW M3 is called out in essentially 3 colours

The top two are the same, only one is satin, the other gloss - the bottom one is a greyish version. Mixing these - well how do you mix 95/5 for a small amount?. I'm going to spray this thing a black grey & use gloss/satin varnish to pick out H & J & then pick out Q using a gunmetal.....................
This has been primed black, the roll cage is able to to be made up loose, so that all the fittings can be added before closing up, there are a fair few bits & decals & quite a lot of detail painting needed...................
Dave

 

[adt70hk]

Coming on very nicely Dave. Agree about Revell instructions. My recent Huey had the same mixture instructions.

 

[langy71]

Never really liked the way Revell force you to stay with their own paint range, instead of giving you alternative paint codes..
This alone has stopped me buying Revell kits from time to time..

 

[Dave Ward]

Never really liked the way Revell force you to stay with their own paint range, instead of giving you alternative paint codes..
This alone has stopped me buying Revell kits from time to time..

Chris,
don't let that put you off! - if I have that problem I go on Scalemates, find the same model by a different maker, look at the instructions & crib the detail paint numbers, doesn't have to be the same scale either. Then it's a matter of Equivalent Tables, or more likely have I got anything similar in the paint box! Revell also rebox other makers' kits, so it's a matter of finding the original instructions.............
Dave