Spray painting base coats for large models?

[hunterjwizard]

Hi folks,


I'm kind of new to all of this and hoping to develop it as a fun new skill. Expect a lot of stupid questions from me over the coming weeks.


Anyway, I bought a small airbrush that was described as being "good for beginners" and have read a few tutorials. The tutorial recommended first doing a base coat of white, then a bottom coat of black.


The model I'm using is actually quite large(around 4 feet in length), so I am wondering if I can use regular old spray paint for the base coats, and if so, at what point I should switch over to the air brush. I have a pretty good idea of the color scheme I plan on using, which involves the bulk of the model being done in 2 colors and then details painted in. But since the areas are so large, maybe I should use spray paint for those first bits?

 

[eddiesolo]

At that size just use rattle cans, it will cheaper and far easier. I use grey, red and white primer dependent on top coat. I make RC boats and some large models so this is the easier way to do things.


Use the airbrush for small and detail areas after masking, the bulk use rattle-cans.


Welcome to the forum by the way.

 

[dougie]

Rattle cans if you don't have access to a spray gun and bigger compressor. A baby spray gun is perfect for this type of work and will do a better job if you have the £. Also cheaper in the long run

 

[hunterjwizard]

Thank you for the warm welcome and kind responses!


So I do happen to have a full-sized compressor, can you elaborate a bit on what you mean by a "baby spray gun"? I know I can find things like automotive spray guns pretty inexpensively over here. If it'd do a better job than rattle cans I may invest.


I'm also curious what types of paint I can use in these guns. I bought a starter pack of Testers airgun paints, but I'm going to want a bit more variety in color. My local craft shop has a wide variety of standard Testers-brand colors but I don't know if I can put them in a gun.

 

[eddiesolo]

You can decant rattle cans, just leave them for an hour or so to out-gas, thin if needed.


What you have to ask yourself is: Is this model the only one of that size that you will do? If so, then a couple of rattle-can primers and top coats will surface, if you are planning or have more large size then a compressor and spray gun setup will work.

 

[hunterjwizard]

When you put it that way, I think I'll go with the rattle cans. It's probably not the only large model I'll do, but I can't say when the next one will be.


What I'd like to do ultimately is paint in some weathering and outline panels and things on the model itself, are there any good ultra beginner-type tutorials I can read through, or practice exercises I can do to get my eye in?

 

[eddiesolo]

What exactly are you making? If you don't mind me asking.

 

[hunterjwizard]

Sure - its a fantasy flying ship from the Magic: The Gathering mythos. I used some concept art and card images, then built the mesh in 3D Studio MAX and have been printing it on a 3D printer. You can see a few pictures of the model in progress and the digital render here: http://www.3dprintingforum.org/threads/3267-SkyShip-Weatherlight


The whole assembly is actually a gift for my local game shop, hence why I am pulling out all the stops to try and make it look good. It doesn't have to look professional or factory-made, but I'm trying to at least make it not look "stupid".

 

[hunterjwizard]

You can get some idea of the eventual planned color scheme from the reference images I used:


http://www.wizards.com/magic/images/mtgcom/arcana300/portalship_distort.jpg


http://www.donatoart.com/magic/weatherlight.jpg


http://www.wizards.com/mtg/images/daily/arcana/1708_weatherlight_full.jpg


As you can no doubt tell there was some fairly severe artistic license taken - I had to lengthen the hull substantially to provide space for the card trays, and simplified the mesh somewhat. The last image above provides most of the basis for the final design.

 

[eddiesolo]

That looks superb, great work. Once assembled prime and paint in the colour of your choice. Then detail using anything you like, pigments, pencils, dry brushing, washes. All these can be found on here.

 

[eddiesolo]

Reminds me of a Dwarven Airship.

 

[eddiesolo]

Looking at it I would prime coat, then mask off the areas-like the bow for the brown, do the solid coats first, seal with matt varnish and then start to highlight and weather.

 

[hunterjwizard]

Thanks for the advice. Layering is kind of hard to understand, I mean I get the concept but learning what to do in what order is where talking to more experienced painters comes in.


I'm thinking, as you said, do a base coat in white, then do another entire base coat in black, then in brown, then mask off the areas I don't want to be brown and do them(this way a bit of the brown and a bit of the black will show through I hope), THEN do the matt varnish, then do the highlights and weathering. Does that sound about right?


The reason for the black base coat is I had read that it helps create a sense of "depth" in the paint. I also think it should show through a bit under the brown to give a hint of wood grain. Doing an entire layer in brown just strikes me as practical since the base layers won't be plainly visible through any mistakes in the masking that way.


Doing the matt varnish at this point in the process is I think where I had really needed some guidance - I would have waited to the end but now that you mention it it makes a lot of sense.


Now you mentioned using pencils to detail. Is there a specific type of pencil that you'd use, or just a plain old writing pencil?

 

[eddiesolo]

Yep, black can add depth, don't forget that a darker pattern for in the wood grain you can use a thinned wash in black, grey or browns or yellows and oranges, all can add depth.


I tend to add a matt varnish coat before I start weathering etc this is so that the weathering washes don't affect the main coat.


A normal pencil is great for giving that dull metallic sheen, once all done you can then re add a another matt coat.


I am sure that others will add to soon.

 

[hunterjwizard]

So I've heard the term "Wash" before but am uncertain exactly what it refers to. Mind giving me a basic overview of the concept and when it's used?

 

[eddiesolo]

A wash can be a bought pre mixed or you can do your own 5% paint colour and 95% thinners. Types used, acrylics, enamels, a more popular is one that I use which is a oil pain-artists oils and white spirit. Use a fine brush to dip and let run into the gaps etc, also you can sponge etc to get a mottled worn/dirty look.

 

[hunterjwizard]

Oh that sounds like it'll look good!


Man, I gotta find a real hobby shop around here. We have a craft store but it mostly caters to scrap bookers and decopage. We've got a "hobby" store that only caters to radio controlled airplanes and cars(and not painting them). It's kind of annoying.

 

[Stevekir]

At that size just use rattle cans, it will cheaper and far easier. I use grey, red and white primer dependent on top coat. I make RC boats and some large models so this is the easier way to do things.
Use the airbrush for small and detail areas after masking, the bulk use rattle-cans.


Welcome to the forum by the way.

I used Tamiya Synthetic resin from spray cans and got a very good mirror finish. Howevere, I also used it in my airbrush for incurved areas where the fierce spray of a rattle can tende to overload the model. Although I cleaned the airbrush very very thoroughly, the nozzle blocked in later use and I had to replace it. Even reaming did not clear it.


I concluded from that cellulose thinners (the solvent) didn't like my AB,although it is a Harder and Steinbeck of good quality.

 

[John Rixon]

Sure - its a fantasy flying ship from the Magic: The Gathering mythos. I used some concept art and card images, then built the mesh in 3D Studio MAX and have been printing it on a 3D printer. You can see a few pictures of the model in progress and the digital render here: http://www.3dprintingforum.org/threads/3267-SkyShip-Weatherlight
The whole assembly is actually a gift for my local game shop, hence why I am pulling out all the stops to try and make it look good. It doesn't have to look professional or factory-made, but I'm trying to at least make it not look "stupid".

Crivens!

 

[John Rixon]

Rattle can is my vote, am following this new trend of 3DS Max and 3D printers, it really is the future! 3DS isn't for everyone (major understatement here!) and requires a huge input of time and dedication to master, but before too long, I can see folks selling the data to feed into your own 3D printer to build your own kit! Just think, a Miles Magister, or Avro Anson - no-one is gonna mass produce a quality kit of these kinds of 'plane, but with this tech, it'll be a reality one day. Good work, by the way hunterjwizard!