Spray painting base coats for large models?

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hunterjwizard

Guest
3DS doesn't require any more time or effort to master than any other 3D program. Trust me, having both taught and learned several!


The problem is everyone goes in to 3D design looking for a shortcut or an easy answer. There are none of these. Whatever 3D program you use, expect to spend a ton of time learning it. Surprisingly, the learning curve for 3DS is considerably lower than, say, some piece of garbage like blender(I won't even dignify that trash with a capitol letter). And while Google Schechup is certainly easier to begin, it's actual modeling functionality falls flat.


If you want to make really neat objects quickly and easily, 3D Studio MAX is your best friend. Once you learn how, anyway.
 
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dougie

Guest
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Thank you for the warm welcome and kind responses!
So I do happen to have a full-sized compressor, can you elaborate a bit on what you mean by a "baby spray gun"? I know I can find things like automotive spray guns pretty inexpensively over here. If it'd do a better job than rattle cans I may invest.


I'm also curious what types of paint I can use in these guns. I bought a starter pack of Testers airgun paints, but I'm going to want a bit more variety in color. My local craft shop has a wide variety of standard Testers-brand colors but I don't know if I can put them in a gun.
Sorry, I didn't see this, I'm one of those that needs a "quote post" so I can see in the notifications if there is a reply...


I have a Iwata RG3 spray gun, its smaller than an an Automotive or full size one and it uses less air. It seems to make more sense for smaller jobs like modelling.


Please look on you tube for Budzik (I think its Paul) and look at his videos. all are 1st class and there is one in particular that will show you all about why you should prime and paint bigger areas with a spray gun.
 
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dougie

Guest
\ said:
I haven't heard "crivens" for many years. Another one I like is "Jings". You've made my day.
Help ma boab.


Oor Wullie and The Broons were a staple read of mine when I wis a bairn.
 
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dougie

Guest
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I used Tamiya Synthetic resin from spray cans and got a very good mirror finish. Howevere, I also used it in my airbrush for incurved areas where the fierce spray of a rattle can tende to overload the model. Although I cleaned the airbrush very very thoroughly, the nozzle blocked in later use and I had to replace it. Even reaming did not clear it.
I concluded from that cellulose thinners (the solvent) didn't like my AB,although it is a Harder and Steinbeck of good quality.
I have been using Cellulose thinners through mine and its ok. Does yours have the triple seal? I think they are Nylon? what happened to the brush? did it stop drawing paint or something?
 
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Stevekir

Guest
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I have been using Cellulose thinners through mine and its ok. Does yours have the triple seal? I think they are Nylon? what happened to the brush? did it stop drawing paint or something?
Air came out but the paint was too thick in the nozzle but normal in the bottle (Vallejo Model Air). I got worms. I reamed the nozzle - no help. My AB is by Harder and Steenbeck, CR Plus, 0.4 mm nozzle. I think it has good quality seals but I don't know about triple seals.
 
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dougie

Guest
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Air came out but the paint was too thick in the nozzle but normal in the bottle (Vallejo Model Air). I got worms. I reamed the nozzle - no help. My AB is by Harder and Steenbeck, CR Plus, 0.4 mm nozzle. I think it has good quality seals but I don't know about triple seals.
that's strange. I used a 0.2 nozzle with model air but it does need thinning at that nozzle size. id stick with proper brand thinners and maybe use the cellulose if you need deep cleaning?
 
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John Rixon

Guest
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I haven't heard "crivens" for many years. Another one I like is "Jings". You've made my day.
Showing my age Steve! Memories of Oor Wullie in the Sunday Post!
 
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Deleted member 3568

Guest
Welcome to the forum, that is going to look awesome.
 
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