Stynylrez - again!

[Gern]

Could somebody please help?


The reason I don't get to finish many kits is the painting. Although I use a hairy stick with some success on smaller parts, I can leave brush marks in water so that's no good for large areas.


I can't use enamels 'cos even with an extractor booth and mask, the fumes irritate my nose and throat something rotten; consequently I'm stuck with acrylics. Don't get me wrong, I like them. I use Vallejo Air and Colour but have recently taken a liking to Tamiya. I don't have any issues spraying any of them, but as soon as I look cross-eyed at the finished paint, it starts to flake off. I know a good primer will help prevent that happening (it doesn't stop it completely but every little helps) so I'm trying out a few primers.


The one I'm leaning towards is Stynylrez. I love the finish and the fact that it's touchable and can be worked on after just a few minutes. It's taken me quite a while to get used to using it. I tried the internet and quite a few reviews said you could spray it undiluted at about 30 psi through a 0.3mm needle. None of my brushes will spray it like that so I got a new brush with a 0.5mm needle and up the pressure to about 35psi just for priming. Now I can spray it with no problems - once!


I have a cleaning routine which works for all my brushes with all the different acrylics I spray without any problems. I use methylated spirit for the bulk of the cleaning then half a cup of dedicated cleaner - I've got Vallejo, Ultimate and Medea cleaners - at the end.


None of these work with Stynylrez. Although all the cleaners work on the parts I can reach - with a lot of elbow grease - I have to completely strip down my brush and clean out the nozzle with cellulose thinner - which will not do the seals in my cheap A/B much good.


Do any of you guys use Stynylrez? If so, what in the names of all the Gods do you use to clean your airbrush?

 

[Ian M]

I would try leaving the Methylated spirit out and do this:


Use the Vallejo cleaner to wash the cup out, use a brush to clean around the sides and then pour out the contents. Do that a couple of times to get rid of the bulk of the gunk. Once the cup is basicaly clean and there are no gluppy bits left then spray the Vallejo cleaner through a few times until there is now colour in the cleaner at all. I think that the meths is affecting the primer and causing it to gunk up.
I have yet to try this ûber primer but I have found that all the other "water based" primers do not respond well to any form of chemical cleaners. in fact cellulose turn them instantly into jelly!.


Give is a try with out the meths and do not spray the cleaner through the airbrush until the cup is clean.

 

[BarryW]

I use Stynylrez now exclusively.   I spray with a .4 needle at about 30psi and build up the colour in very light coats.


You can thin it with Vallejo Thinner and I have done so when a new bottle was a bit too thick.  Some batches it seems can be a bit thicker than others.


For cleaning my a/b I always do a strip clean at the end of every session anyway.  I spray though several cups of water mixed with a window cleaner (Mr Muscle) and then a cup of Medea, Vallejo or Ultimate whatever is to hand.  When I strip the a/b I use i.p.a. and tend to drop the smaller parts into a cup of it and wipe the main parts down with it.  The small parts are removed and cleaned off one by one with various sized cotton buds.  I use an extra small triangular Tamiya cotton bud to wide the inside of the nozzle and, after using primer, ream it also.  I dont do the latter after using ordinary Vallejo paint, only Stynylrez.  It works well for me.

 

[John Rixon]

Was just typing this when Barry's post was up! 


Ive not found any acrylic so far that doesn't clean up beautifully with this stuff:





pits far, far cheaper than any of the proprietary cleaners, and, to be frank, better! Then you can save your expensive Vallejo thinners for thinning your paint. I've taken palettes that are full of hardened paint, usually a selection of Vallejo and tamiya, sprayed a couple of generous sprays on them and it all comes of very easily. So then I tried it in airbrushes and it's brilliant! I've never tried it yet, but I bet it'll strip a model as well as any other method too...

 

[John Rixon]

Apparently you can get it at £1.49 if you are lucky enough to have a Robert Dyas locally, compare that with a bottle of Vallejo!


Just to add, I've not tried Badger's wonder primer yet, will do when my rattle an runs out, am betting mr muscle will clean that up too  . 

 

[Deleted member 5496]

My experience with Synylerez is that there is no alternative to stripping. It is the downside of using this primer which has no equal by a long mile.


My routine,after getting rid of any left over in the cup, is to strip down without any delay. I do not try to clean with water as I have found it adds to the stuff going off.


I use miniature plastic shot glasses from Pound World. Place an amount of IPA just to cover and plonk in the nozzle and leave to soak. After a time sluice in water and that has not failed. But a good idea to look under a magnifier, through the blunt end, against light to ensure there is no remaining residue.


One of the problems of this primer is it is so glutinous that it tends to backfire up the needle cavity. I use the same procedure as the needle. With seals which are susceptible to IPA I would use Vallejo Cleaner. Place in the cup and swill back and forth shaking at the same time. Then sluice in water.


To finish I place a drop of airbrush Oil on the plunger valve. Also on the needle at the spot it which it sits in the seal. This is just in case there is residue on the seal. It stops the needle getting stuck to the seal.


The worst thing is not to strip as my experience has caused much anger at blocked nozzles and needles stuck to the seal.


Stewart


PS Stynylerez is a dirty old paint but I love it. Rather like a good meal but then you have the down side washing up.

 

[Gern]

So. Leave out the meths and use Mr Muscle window cleaner and/or Vallejo or IPA.


Off to the supermarket for some window cleaner - thanks guys! I'll let you know how I get on although it may be a few days - hopefully. I got a job interview this afternoon so maybe back to work soon. I'm keeping my fingers and toes crossed even though that makes walking tricky!

 

[Ian M]

Good luck with the interview.


Flory models Youtube channel has a video review and he cant speak highly enough of the stuff. Looks pretty good to me and I might have to try it. 
Toward the end of the video he shows how he cleans up... I'm pretty sure he knows what he is talking about....

 

[Gern]

Good luck with the interview.


Flory models Youtube channel has a video review and he cant speak highly enough of the stuff. Looks pretty good to me and I might have to try it. 
Toward the end of the video he shows how he cleans up... I'm pretty sure he knows what he is talking about....

Thanks Ian.


Phil's review was one of the reasons I added it to my list of primers to try. I've seen the video but I don't remember if he actually mentions what he uses as a cleaner. If he does then I must have missed it and I've since cancelled my subscription .....

 

[Gern]

I just noticed that both Barry and Stewart soak the nozzle in IPA after cleaning out the majority of paint. If I could find a suitable container, could I just loosen the needle and pull it clear then stand the nose of the airbrush in IPA? Being rather ham-fisted, I can just see myself stripping the thread or splitting the seal if I keep taking the nozzle out of my brush.

 

[Deleted member 5496]

I just noticed that both Barry and Stewart soak the nozzle in IPA after cleaning out the majority of paint. If I could find a suitable container, could I just loosen the needle and pull it clear then stand the nose of the airbrush in IPA? Being rather ham-fisted, I can just see myself stripping the thread or splitting the seal if I keep taking the nozzle out of my brush.

No I would not do that Dave. IPA may have an effect on the seal depending on what the seals are made of .


Plus to make sure of a good clean you really need to remove the nozzle. If when replacing the nozzle you just give the seal a lick of airbrush oil this will ensure that you do not have any problems. again a plus it ensures a good airtight seal and a safe release when next cleaning.


From reading other problems with Stynylrez the significant problem is blocked or partially blocked nozzles.


Stewart

 

[stona]

I hope its amazing stuff as there are other primers available that don't cause all this hassle.


I'm also surprised that so many are stripping their airbrushes so often. I do mine either when they don't spray properly for some reason, or after several models and sometimes months, when I think they deserve a little TLC. All my airbrushes have survived on this routine for at least fifteen years, one at least for considerably longer.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Ian M]

Thanks Ian.


Phil's review was one of the reasons I added it to my list of primers to try. I've seen the video but I don't remember if he actually mentions what he uses as a cleaner. If he does then I must have missed it and I've since cancelled my subscription .....

It is a free to view video on you tube. He just uses Vallejo cleaner. No strip down. Just washes out the paint cup a couple of times emptying it by pouring it out. When the cup is clean then he sprays some through until to spray is clear. 

 

[Gern]

No I would not do that Dave. IPA may have an effect on the seal depending on what the seals are made of .


Plus to make sure of a good clean you really need to remove the nozzle. If when replacing the nozzle you just give the seal a lick of airbrush oil this will ensure that you do not have any problems. again a plus it ensures a good airtight seal and a safe release when next cleaning.


From reading other problems with Stynylrez the significant problem is blocked or partially blocked nozzles.


Stewart

On my airbrush the seal is fitted to the nozzle so I'd have to keep forcing it over the screw threads on the nozzle to remove and refit it. I see nothing but trouble if I keep doing that every time I need to clean my A/B - it's such a tiny thing I'm bound to damage it or lose it down the sink. I've got hold of some of that Mr Muscle so I'll try that and see how it goes. Meantime I'll avoid the meths and water as suggested.

 

[Deleted member 5496]

Going to try Mr Muscle.


Looked up and there are 3 Mr Muscle window cleaners.


Advanced Plus


Multi Task for Windows


Window and Glass Cleaner


One and 3 above give a caution on using it on chrome.


Stewart

 

[Ian M]

On my airbrush the seal is fitted to the nozzle so I'd have to keep forcing it over the screw threads on the nozzle to remove and refit it.

I have not had a sealing ring on my nozzle for the last five years. works fine. Just dont over do it when you screw it in place.

 

[Ian M]

One and 3 above give a caution on using it on chrome.

Well I would go for number two then ... If I ever ran out of airbrush cleaner.

 

[Deleted member 5496]

Well I would go for number two then ... If I ever ran out of airbrush cleaner.

Agreed I will carry on with Vallejo Cleaner. But for Stynylrez I find that it is not very good. Hence a trial for Muscle and if it does not work I will clean the windows.


Stewart

 

[dubster72]

Even better & cheaper than the Mr Muscle is pre-mixed windscreen wash fluid. Whenever I take a foray into the frustrating world of acrylics it's my go-to for cleaning the AB.


Works perfectly & I never feel any need to disassemble the airbrush. Like Steve, I hardly ever break it down, but that might be due to primarily using enamels.


A note re Flory, I recall in the Stynylrez video review, after becoming dissatisfied with Vallejo primer, he'd gone back to using Tamiya acrylics as a primer. That might be a possible alternative?

 

[Gern]

Agreed I will carry on with Vallejo Cleaner. But for Stynylrez I find that it is not very good. Hence a trial for Muscle and if it does not work I will clean the windows.


Stewart

D'you reckon it would work on windows then Laurence? Sounds a bit like that Klear stuff. Apparently you can use that on floors!


PS I've been calling you Stewart on our PMs. My apologies - I didn't read your details properly and you never said!