Tank tracks

[andy55]

I've got the MiniArt T60 tractor with Pak40 and crew. Looks to be a nice model with some fine detail... however the tracks are 'push together' what is the best way to deal with/build the tracks. Have just put an IBG panzer II on the back burner. The tracks were a nightmare. Ended up glueing them 6 at a time. Got to be a better way.

 

[Jakko]

The tracks are separate links that don’t articulate, you mean? Then the best way to assemble them is probably to clean them all up, and then in one go assemble a long enough length for the whole track, put it onto the wheels while the glue is still wet, glue the ends together, and gently push and pull it into position.

If you can put the wheels onto the axles without glue (possibly with something like Blu-Tack to hold them on), this will allow you to remove the wheels and track together once the glue on the track has set, paint all of it separately, and then re-install everything once the whole model is painted.

On the other hand, if the wheels are already on, you could glue the track to the wheels. That will make painting the wheels, track, and hull side more difficult, however. One way to get round this is to assemble two lengths of track, one at a time, for each side. First, put on the bottom run (from, say, the front of the drive sprocket to the rear of the idler wheel) and let it dry on the model, but without glueing it to the wheels. Then build and fit the top run between the ends of the bottom run, again without glueing it the wheels, nor to the bottom run. You now have two lengths of track that you can take off for painting. Repeat for the other side.

 

[andy55]

Yep, what your first sentence said. The above is brill advice, just what I needed after the nightmare I had. No where near building the tracks yet, but thought I'd get advice first. Great Jakko, thanks.

 

[Jakko]

BTW, I recommended building the bottom run first because a T60 light tank has “dead” track, which will hang over the return rollers. By doing the bottom run first (letting that hang in a slight curve between the sprocket and first roadwheel, and between the last roadwheel and the idler), you won’t have to worry much about whether or not the track will fit. Just make the top run long enough that it fits and use the way it hangs over the return rollers to take up any excess length — or have it tight there, if it happens to end up like that.

With tanks that have “live” track, which is normally tight around the wheels, it’s rather more difficult unless you can move the idler wheel on the model like on the real vehicle.

 

[andy55]

Just having a look at the destructions, it looks like I'll be able to put the road wheels, sprocket and idler on with blutack, it will just be the return rollers that will be fixed. If I use loctite power gel it should give me some 'grab' but still be pliable. Orrrrr just looking at the panzer II, maybe build the track on sellotape (rub it well so only little tacky) either way will build it in the sections that you suggested.
Thanks

 

[Dave Ward]

Comvert the individual links to lengths! I generally make up the bottom run first it's flat & easy to measure - the distance between the first & the last road wheels. There's no easy way of doing the sprockets/idlers! The top lengths can be assembled into short runs, so you can add 'sag' between return rollers. I never attempt to make anything 'working' - all is glued together - Revell Contacta & Loctite CA in my case! It's fiddly, and tedious, but worth it in the end
Dave

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Ditto on the above advice, or be like me and take the cowards way out and get a metal set....

 

[andy55]

Comvert the individual links to lengths! I generally make up the bottom run first it's flat & easy to measure - the distance between the first & the last road wheels. There's no easy way of doing the sprockets/idlers! The top lengths can be assembled into short runs, so you can add 'sag' between return rollers. I never attempt to make anything 'working' - all is glued together - Revell Contacta & Loctite CA in my case! It's fiddly, and tedious, but worth it in the end
Dave

Nar, no working tracks, my days of going brummm, brummm and running it along the work bench are long gone. think the way forward is to make it in sections as that seems to be the consensus.

Ditto on the above advice, or be like me and take the cowards way out and get a metal set....

Only had a quick look on scalemates, but none available and then it's also extra cost which I have an aversion to.

 

[Jakko]

If I use loctite power gel it should give me some 'grab' but still be pliable.

I would strongly advise using liquid cement instead. If you work moderately fast, you can bend the tracks around the wheels before it sets.

 

[Si Benson]

I built the T60 a while back (build Here)

I did the tracks in two long runs using Tamiya extra thin cement….. glue half the tracks, let them dry round the running gear then do the other half…you’ll see what I mean in the build

 

[andy55]

I would strongly advise using liquid cement instead. If you work moderately fast, you can bend the tracks around the wheels before it sets.

Have some spare track off the panzer II so will try both to find which suits, though contacter may make more sense.

I built the T60 a while back (build Here)

I did the tracks in two long runs using Tamiya extra thin cement….. glue half the tracks, let them dry round the running gear then do the other half…you’ll see what I mean in the build

Interesting build, I thought of using sellotape for the tracks, duh, makes far more sense using tamiya tape (??), that I've got.
Cheers.

 

[andy55]

Update: got the wheels on and got the first piece of track on. Put it on with the tape still attached and then extra thin round the edges. Took it off for the glue to cure a bit and remove the tape, then back on till it sets completely.

Hopefully there'll be enough spring in it to get it off for painting

 

[Jakko]

As long as you haven’t accidentally glued them to the tracks, and take care not to go more than halfway round the sprocket and the idler, they should come off. Be careful to not break them when you remove them, though.

 

[andy55]

As long as you haven’t accidentally glued them to the tracks, and take care not to go more than halfway round the sprocket and the idler, they should come off. Be careful to not break them when you remove them, though.

Was surprised how long I had using extra thin, though I did put it on quite heavy. Seems to have worked, but was careful not to get it on any of the wheels/sprockets. Certainly seems to work using tamiya tape. Will probably keep building the tracks as I start the Pak 40. Though maybe need to lay off the rum, starting to enjoy building the tracks...

 

[Jakko]

Tamiya Extra Thin remains soft for quite some time, is my experience, so it’s well suitable for glueing together tracks like this. With faster-setting cement, you probably would still have enough time given the small size of the T-60, but for something a lot bigger it might not be long enough. TET should also work fine for bigger models, though, if you work reasonably fast.

 

[andy55]

Tamiya Extra Thin remains soft for quite some time, is my experience, so it’s well suitable for glueing together tracks like this. With faster-setting cement, you probably would still have enough time given the small size of the T-60, but for something a lot bigger it might not be long enough. TET should also work fine for bigger models, though, if you work reasonably fast.

Was surprised though as first time using extra thin, though it does smell very much like Contacta only a lot thinner. Not that I make a habit of smelling glue... just had a look at them both and looks like they contain similar things.
Anyway always good to ask advice, between the tape advice and build in sections advice, as they say jobs a good en.
Thanks