The answer I have been searching for?!

[Steve Adams]

Bit embaressed really.

Been building tanks for a few years & had a calling one day to build US Naval Aircraft.

Wasn't Top Gun or anything like that but saw a Bearcat fly at Duxford & was hooked.

The thing is I have never bothered with base coats before. Seen loads of threads about mixing acryillic/ enamels etc. and get the curing bit but really need to know what base coat to use.

Intend to use enamels as that is all I have used but if I use the buy a tin of the Halfords acryllic metal primer and let it cure for a few days before the enamel coat, will I be OK?

Somenone help me to stop myself from buggering up my Hellcat kit!

Regards

Steve

 

[stona]

Why embarrassed? It's a perfectly reasonable question.

I too use enamels and I've been priming my plastic with "Halfords Plastic Primer" for years. I use grey which is a good all rounder. It sticks like you know what to a blanket!

Just be careful applying it. Try and mist it on in quick passes so that you don't get to heavy a wet coat.

Cheers

Steve

Just saw that it's your first post.....welcome aboard.

 

[Steve Adams]

Why embarrassed? It's a perfectly reasonable question.I too use enamels and I've been priming my plastic with "Halfords Plastic Primer" for years. I use grey which is a good all rounder. It sticks like you know what to a blanket!

Just be careful applying it. Try and mist it on in quick passes so that you don't get to heavy a wet coat.

Cheers

Steve

Just saw that it's your first post.....welcome aboard.

Many thanks Stona!

This is quite a site all right.

Could I ask you one more question?

What is the method when people talk about pin washing? Going to try panel lining on my new kit & have seen so many different methods & don't know what to do!

 

[stona]

A pin wash is a wash applied just to the panel lines or other detail. It works best on the recessed lines of more recent kits.

You can do a water or solvent based wash. Typically the wash is made up with a dilute dark colour and applied to the detail with a fine brush. It will often move along the detail by capillary action.

There is a bit of a knack to getting it right so I wouldn't jump straight in on an expensive kit!

The alternative is the "clay" based washes produced by Flory's models. These come in a selection of shades and can be slapped on the model liberally. Once dry you can remove as much as you want using a damp cloth or kitchen roll, leaving the wash in the detail. The advantage of this system is that you can't really mess it up......well you can, but you can always remove the wash and start again. This is a lot trickier with a pin wash, particularly solvent based.

If you want to go with a pin wash give us a shout and I can give a bit more specific info.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Ian M]

If you look up the Official humbrol channel on You tube, there is a very good video of pin washes. Using their products naturally!

I use artists oil paints. The best of both worlds. Robust but easy and as it takes a good day or three, any mistakes are easily rectified.

Ian M

 

[ojays]

Welcome to the friendliest forum for our chosen hobby!

Gregg

 

[Steve Adams]

Welcome to the friendliest forum for our chosen hobby!Gregg

A pin wash is a wash applied just to the panel lines or other detail. It works best on the recessed lines of more recent kits.You can do a water or solvent based wash. Typically the wash is made up with a dilute dark colour and applied to the detail with a fine brush. It will often move along the detail by capillary action.

There is a bit of a knack to getting it right so I wouldn't jump straight in on an expensive kit!

The alternative is the "clay" based washes produced by Flory's models. These come in a selection of shades and can be slapped on the model liberally. Once dry you can remove as much as you want using a damp cloth or kitchen roll, leaving the wash in the detail. The advantage of this system is that you can't really mess it up......well you can, but you can always remove the wash and start again. This is a lot trickier with a pin wash, particularly solvent based.

If you want to go with a pin wash give us a shout and I can give a bit more specific info.

Cheers

Steve

Many thanks Steve,

Good to know, that there is someone out there I can ask to save me from the inevitable swearing that will occur!

 

[Steve Adams]

Thanks everyone for welcoming me to the this forum.

Great to know there are people out there that share the same interest (or is that obsession?) as me!

I have decided, feel free to call me a massacist if you want, to build all marks of US Naval aircraft from 1922-present in 1/48th.

Ask me how I am getting on when I am 143!

Also don't tell the wife about the 16 kits so far that are hidden in my model room....

 

[stona]

build all marks of US Naval aircraft from 1922-present in 1/48th....

Good luck with that! It's an ambitious project. Some might not have kits in 1/48 but those that do will definitely keep you busy for a while.

There was a father and son team a few years ago who were making every single Mark and version of the Hawker Hurricane in 1/72 scale and they had a lot of models

Cheers

Steve

 

[Dave W]

Another point to remember when doing a wash is to do it on a gloss finish.So you need to coat the model in clear gloss varnish first.Then the wash will flow along the recessed panel lines much better.Also, if you use the Florymodels wash on a matt painted surface, it will be difficult to remove if you over do it or don't like the effect.And some won't come off at all.Ask me how I know?!.