andy55
SMF Supporter
Call me a silly bugger. After just building my first tank with build up tracks, thought it must be something to do with that. Didn't think of the obvious.If your kit allows you to build a few versions, check the destructions carefully to see if these are in one of them...
Prost
Allen
Nice one Gary3.7cm PAK
Not an idiot at all mate,.....Thanks guys, just feel a bit of an idiot. Ah well, live and learn. What I have realised is those tracks are going to be a sod to put together without a jig. The version is the /9 with the 75mm gun.
Andy
I built one of these Dragon 251s about a year and a half ago, there’s a thread about it on the forum. My advice for building the tracks is to start like this:those tracks are going to be a sod to put together without a jig.
Bloody track links … I chose the “Magic Tracks” because I figure the later type of track would be on this vehicle, but I suspect the early type on the sprues would actually be the easier one to clean up. Each link has two ejector pin markings on it, so those need to be filed down, which requires holding it between thumb and forefinger, filing one side flat, turning it around and filing the other. With links that are 8 mm wide and 5.5 mm long, that’s hard enough on the joints in my fingers that I can manage ten to fifteen or so before I had better stop before the ache gets too bad.
That is very useful. Nice to see that you had the same issues as I have. Started reading, but have go out so will go though later. Didn't occure to just do a push fit on the tracks, will give it a try.I built one of these Dragon 251s about a year and a half ago
Hi Doug. Found that with the tiger tracks, took about 3 days. Found it something to do whilst waiting for paint/glue to dry...I remember from my 3 part per link set up on the CH2 I built. The tip I was given that worked for me was only do as many links as you feel you can manage without making errors.
That, and don’t leave the tracks until the very end. I’ve said this plenty of times before, but a lot of modellers build the whole vehicle and only then start on the tracks, meaning they have a very dull job ahead of them with nothing else to do until it’s finished. But if you start on the track around the time you also start on the rest of the model, and break it up into doing short lengths at a time like Doug says, you’ll find it much less tedious.The tip I was given that worked for me was only do as many links as you feel you can manage without making errors. One day I managed 14 links another over 20, took a few days.
You’re welcomeJakko and Scratchbuilder can take a bow!!! Cheers fella's.
As I mentioned in the thread about the French Sd.Kfz. 251, pins are likely to break on a fair number of links. But as long as at least one of the two pins still remains, the tracks should hold together well enough to paint them and add them to the model. If they get too snaky when building, it will help if you straighten them out (along a ruler, for example) every once in a while, because this will relieve strain on the links that only have a single pin left — which is where the track is most likely to bend sideways.Didn't occure to just do a push fit on the tracks, will give it a try.
Because you picked a kit that’s not actually all that good? The tracks are simply very fiddly, the rest of it is OK but the model has a major issue in being about 3 mm too narrow … The only reasonable way to correct that, though, is to put it back into its box and buy one from AFV Club insteadWhy do i get the feeling I'm going to regret this build.
Have you ever seen Magnolia?to quote Steve McQueen, I once knew a man who jumped off a 10 story building, as he passed each floor he was heard to say, so far so good.
Nar, started so I'll finish, was thinking of maybe a combat dio, so depending how it turns out could become a wreck...… The only reasonable way to correct that, though, is to put it back into its box and buy one from AFV Club instead
Have you ever seen Magnolia?
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