Ian M's Sd.Kfz.8 12t half track. Trumpeter. 1/35.

[Jakko]

A 12-ton towing a V2 on a Meillerwagen

That was my first thought of what you meant, but then I felt this would have been too obvious so I suggested the glider as a guessat what you had in mind … Guess I overthought it

an obstacle course,

I don’t think it’s an obstacle course but represents the German railway loading gauge.

 

[Ian M]

Do these look about right @Allen Dewire
And no worries about the picture of yours quite helpful.

As for what it will tow.. either a pak 43 or a flak 44 both big buggers 128mm.

 

[Allen Dewire]

Looooking gooood Ian!!! Great weapons of choice to tow too...This is gonna be great!!!.....

 

[Ian M]

Looooking gooood Ian!!! Great weapons of choice to tow too...This is gonna be great!!!.....

If your going to have a gun, have a big one. lol.
Do you know what they used to transport munitions to them with. I know only that the flak was run by Luftwaffe, pak by the army.

 

[Jim R]

Well done Ian, you're a patient man. Just see now how much better the track fits

 

[papa 695]

Cracking work so far Ian.

 

[Allen Dewire]

Hi Ian,

The 12 ton could carry ammo in the rear storage lockers, but not a lot in this caliber. Re-supply probably would have been done by 4.5 ton trucks as they could carry more rounds than a 3 ton Blitz or the like.

The Wehrmacht also had FlaK units in it. The 128 FlaK guns were mostly used to protect factories and important objects/sites and were Luftwaffe controlled. So were the twin 128's that were mounted on FlaK towers in major cities. They weren't dragged all over the battlefield like an 88 was. The few transportable 128's couldn't fire while on their transport bogies and had to be put on the ground. Very few towed PaKs of 128mm were produced as the total weight of them was around 12 tons and towing vehicles weren't in abundance this late in the war......Krupp and Rheinmetall were the makers of them, so almost all of the 128's were mounted in the Jagdtiger......

And here I was thinking you were going to have it towing an arty piece like a 21cm Mörser 18 or the like............

Prost
Allen

 

[Ian M]

And here I was thinking you were going to have it towing an arty piece like a 21cm Mörser 18 or the like............

Oh That's rather large. (said the actress to the Bishop).
As you are probably fast learning German Armour is not really my thang... But there is a damn site more of it kitted than there is of British stuff. (in plastic).

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Blimey!!...
This is VERY INTERESTING STUFF
.... not to mention a nice looking kit,well, despite the problems,and after your determined modifications that is !....
It's making my GB entry,(that I'm basically shoving together ootb ),seem positively bland!!
Good stuff here though Ian

 

[Ian M]

And on the second day he said let there be wheels...

And behold there where wheels. 'Er ya go, clean those up'
On the third day He shall stick them together.
And on the forth he shall rest... lol

 

[Ian M]

Blimey!!...
This is VERY INTERESTING STUFF
.... not to mention a nice looking kit,well, despite the problems,and after your determined modifications that is !....
It's making my GB entry,(that I'm basically shoving together ootb ),seem positively bland!!
Good stuff here though Ian

Trust me this is OTB as well... . . .So far. lol

 

[Jim R]

And on the 5th day he said "Bugger this for a game of soldiers" and took up knitting.

 

[minitnkr]

See a lot of 17cm Canones behind 12tonners. Even after SWs halftracks were introduced, most arty. ammo was still delivered by horse'n'buggy.

 

[Ian M]

Apart from some of these parts are so easy to switch around, put in the wrong way up/around the fit is rather good and the thing is a good´/enjoyable build. Maybe going a bit to quick...
I gotta start painting bits soon!

Contemplating if I can assemble (most of) the body off the rolling chassis or if it has to be built in situ. Anyone tried it?




And all clean and ready for primer.
If only I had some dark oxide primer.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Ian
That's looking really good. Lovely neat work.

Contemplating if I can assemble (most of) the body off the rolling chassis or if it has to be built in situ. Anyone tried it?

I'm waiting to see how you and Los tackle that issue I have no doubt you'll come up with a plan.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Build looks to be progressing well Ian. Really nicely detailed as well. Shame about the drive sprockets, but you seem to have nailed that one. Must be a market there to make and sell for replacements I would think.

 

[Ian M]

Cheers chaps-
I recon that as long as I dont put the Motor in I will be able to do it all in one.... Or I can put the motor in and put the front on after...

 

[Allen Dewire]

Ian,

You can build the body on the fenders and not have to have it on the chassis. Makes it easier to paint too. Just make sure the body attachment points line up on the chassis correctly (looks like you have already done that)......

After you add the firewall to the body, put the steering column through it and place the body on the chassis . Make sure the steering column sits in the attachment point on the chassis. Don't glue it to the chassis, glue it to the firewall instead. Then you have no troubles trying to slide the body onto the column (a PITA) as the destruction shows. Hope this makes sense.................

Prost
Allen

 

[Jakko]

Contemplating if I can assemble (most of) the body off the rolling chassis or if it has to be built in situ. Anyone tried it?

The way I would do it, would be to build the major parts off the chassis but put them in position on it without glue, and wait until the glue on the parts has set before removing them — and then, regularly dry-fit it again to see if new parts don’t interfere. This way you will get everything to line up but have the convenience the body being loose so you can fit parts to both it and the chassis much more easily.

 

[Allen Dewire]

The way I would do it, would be to build the major parts off the chassis but put them in position on it without glue, and wait until the glue on the parts has set before removing them — and then, regularly dry-fit it again to see if new parts don’t interfere. This way you will get everything to line up but have the convenience the body being loose so you can fit parts to both it and the chassis much more easily.

Exactly the way I did mine, But I glued the front fender piece to the rear fender piece on the chassis. I also started building the storage lockers and glued the pieces together. It looked like this,


Once it had dried, I removed it as a total unit and continued to add other parts, including the side panels, only gluing them to the rear panel to get a good fit. Then added the firewall and other tidbits to it off the chassis,


You can see the side panels are not glued to the fender. The storage rack w/rails, hood (bonnet), radiator and rear seats are also not glued yet to insure a good fit all around. It's one complete unit and should fit on the chassis with no prob, even with the motor in place. Just double check how far the air-cleaners stick out on the right side. It should fit.....

Sorry again for the pics Ian, but it's better to see it, than me, trying to explain it in words.......

Prost
Allen