1/35 Israeli Defence Force M60 A1 'Blazer'..

[Gern]

No one want to let me know what the 'orange boxes' are then? Not to worry


I've given the model it's first coat of enamel. Well thinned with turps and applied with a big brush, worked in all the nooks and crannies. I let the paint run where it wanted to go, then when semi dry. I layered it off to remove an unwanted ridges.


With brush painting I can introduce weathering with each coat. This first coat has left a nice hit and miss streaky sand blasted effect - just the ticket!


View attachment 265282


View attachment 265283


Bustel still not fixed - I'm not in the mood for that mesh work yet!


Thanks for looking,


Ron

Just read this in detail rather than just skimming over the text.


I still can't get over how good your painting turns out given you have such a relaxed approach to the whole business! Everyone else on here agonises about techniques, paint brands, types of brush, thinners and thinning ratios, modulation, washes etc. etc. etc .........


Yet here you are again just 'splashin' it on all over' then 'layering off'. What is 'layering off' and how is it done? And would it work with brush marks?

 

[spanner570]

Thanks Dave. My approach to model painting has always been to keep it simple. It goes back to when my late dad was trying to teaching me how to paint models.


Back in those days all we had was enamel paints and turps. So this is the medium I was shown how to use, and don't see the need to change, despite 'modern' must do thinking. 


I do smile a bit when I read folks agonizing over this and that paint and application of same. Also, modulation, pre. and post shading. i suggest when people read about such things, they get that bogged down they almost become frightened to lift a brush, or (if they must) an A.B......only joking.


..........and please don't shout at me folks. I just paint the way that suits me.


Dave, you ask about 'layering off', some call it 'laying'. The principle applies to all brush applied paints on any surface, be it a bit of plastic or a full sized door. I apply paint quickly and in any direction. Then I brush over the paint in one direction - layering. As paints are to an extent, 'self levelling', this process removes any brush streaks, marks and runs. Only do it once whilst the paint is still fresh and runny. Do it even slightly later and the paint won't smooth out and will be knackered.


Finally, for my models, I always use well thinned paints, using successive coats. Never try and cover in a couple of coats - far too thick and you will get marks - permanent!


I hope to read you kept your mitts off those big boxes at Telford!

 

[Fenlander]

Sound advice Ron.  I am finding I like enamels more and more even for airbrushing.  I do like acrylics but I just cannot be bothered anymore to work out what thinners works with what just so I get a slightly faster drying time.  I say slightly because I tend to use Humbrol and that most evil of thinners, cellulose.  It is amazing how I can get a really hard finish in a respectable amount of time with this stuff.  OK, it stinks, but I spray in a spare room in the house with a decent extractor unit and even my better half who hated the smell of my acrylics sprayed occasionally pre extractor days has not noticed it.


i am a definite convert to Humbrol enamels and the colour range is very impressive.  In fact, I will be using Humbrol gloss ivory, 41 and Humbrol gloss Crimson, 20, for my next build of the Citroën Fourgon H.


i still don't have your brush painting skills though, I like my airbrush 9_9


great build by the way, looks spot on to me.

 

[monica]

superb job with this one Ron,real do like the look of it so well done, :D