1/72 Airfix North American F-86F/E(M) Sabre

Waspie

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The airbrushing was a revalation! i expect to have to learn all about oressures and distances for various paints but ir is fun. I have bought a kit with some PE parts but that’s a way off yet. It looks tricky and I fully expect to superglue my fingers together at regular intervals!
Looking forward to learning a lot from the builds on here and the advice being offered.
I was gifted a cheap, (really cheap) airbrush. It was indeed a big learning curve but once I found my own method of getting the mix just right. But only after listening to what others on here were doing. Then the damn thing self destructed. Now using the new H&S Ultra, made for folk like me - beginners. It's a loverly thing, I have more than halved my cleaning routine between colours.
As for PE!! Mike's tute on using PE is superb. Use the search function and have a read of others experiences. I don't have any fancy tools. I use a mix of Stanley blade, six inch steel rule, scalpel blade and time. Read and fully understand what you are attempting and then just give it your best. I was dreading it, but in the end - hey - it's just a case of bending some flimsy metal.
My next challenge will be using aftermarket Eduard cockpit detailing!! A mix of decals and PE from what I have gleaned so far!!
A good rule of thumb on here - if in doubt - ask. I have asked some pretty dumb questions, (IMHO), and I have never had grief, just good advice and pointers. Some seriously knowledgable folk on here as Mike's post shows.
Doug
 

Geordie

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Right I see your problem with the aluminium...
Acrylic reacts to lacquer based varnish for some reason. And from experience their (Vallejo) gloss varnish leaves a lot to be desired. Johnsons Kleer polish is a great substitute, available from most supermarkets or online here - and for under £4 it will last years... And can be sprayed with the airbrush..
If I am going to paint a mettalic surface I would choose a lacquer based paint (AK, Tamiya, Modelmaster) and most important is to work next to an open window if you do not have a spray booth.
Decals will be ok and you can use the Micrsol method but make sure they sit down by rolling a cotton bud over them.
PE, so I am told is a black art by some of the modellers on here and I am considered to have been lured to the dark side many moons ago. PE is nothing to be worried about and I am sure I left a tutorial on the forum explaining the basics... As for sticking your fingers together, there are many horror stories going around on here of others experiences...
Yes, take a look at the builds, ask about the methods used either on the blog or contact the member with a PM (Personal Message) and i am positive you will get the information you want..
Cheers
Mike.
Thanks Mike. Bottle of Kleer now acquired. Much appreciate your advice. I will take a look at your PE tutorial when I get to that kit.
 

colin m

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okay using microsol and microset on metallic paint
Yes. I've done a few metallic finishes, admittedly using Alclad, which is difficult to get hold on now, and I use micro sol and set on that finish with no problems.
 

Scratchbuilder

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Yes. I've done a few metallic finishes, admittedly using Alclad, which is difficult to get hold on now, and I use micro sol and set on that finish with no problems.
AK do a similar product and does not react to masking tape the same as Alclad (still got a couple of bottles hidden away)...
 

colin m

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AK do a similar product and does not react to masking tape the same as Alclad (still got a couple of bottles hidden away)...
The thing is Michael, I really like Alclad. Mr Flory has just reviewed a new-ish product on Youtube, Mr Hobby Super Mettalic 2. This seems like a good replacement.
 

Andy T

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The thing is Michael, I really like Alclad. Mr Flory has just reviewed a new-ish product on Youtube, Mr Hobby Super Mettalic 2. This seems like a good replacement.
I have several of those. They spray very nicely and are robust once dry.

I wouldn't say the chrome looks as good as Alclad, but reasonably chrome-like.
 
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