1/72 UM SU-100 Self Propelled Gun.
- Thread starter Jim R
- Start date
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi all
Thanks for all your comments
Most reference photos and the box art shown spare track links across the front. The kit uses 7 individual links for this. Because I want to show a wreck with a broken track I thought I would need some extra individual links to use for the bend in the shed track. I decided to resin cast the 7 links for across the front.
A box made from a fruit juice carton and glued together with a cheap hot glue gun. Rubber poured.
Mould removed
Filled with resin
Just need some cleanup.
Completed the undamaged side of track.
Removable for painting.
I didn't realise how small this is at 1/72 - just 8cm long.
Jim
Thanks for all your comments
Most reference photos and the box art shown spare track links across the front. The kit uses 7 individual links for this. Because I want to show a wreck with a broken track I thought I would need some extra individual links to use for the bend in the shed track. I decided to resin cast the 7 links for across the front.
A box made from a fruit juice carton and glued together with a cheap hot glue gun. Rubber poured.
Mould removed
Filled with resin
Just need some cleanup.
Completed the undamaged side of track.
Removable for painting.
I didn't realise how small this is at 1/72 - just 8cm long.
Jim
Jim. Nice updates I like the molding reminds me back in the day I used to cast
Richard48
SMF Supporter
Nice work and great job with doing ypur own castings.Some great work allround.
Excellent.
Richard
Excellent.
Richard
Just the sort of thing Simon would do , cast it. Your taking this to another level with the casting Jim. Well done you, when's the pewter going to appear, perfect for doing bent bits !
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi all
Lee - even being able to do very simple resin casting, which is all I can do, can be very useful.
John - I use rubber and resin from Sylmasta. The stuff I use is just their "general purpose" products.
Richard - thanks for looking in
John - pewter will be used in honour of the great man himself. Ideal for the damaged fender.
Richard F - Simon certainly managed to bring all his skills to bear on all his models. I should probably use a load of Green Stuff
Si - As I said I didn't realise how tiny this is and the track is very fiddly but at least the links do fit together quite well.
It was appropriate that I did the resin casting as it was Simon who introduced me to it way back in 2015. I still have saved all the PMs he send as he showed me how to go about it.
Thanks, as always, for your kind comments.
Jim
Lee - even being able to do very simple resin casting, which is all I can do, can be very useful.
John - I use rubber and resin from Sylmasta. The stuff I use is just their "general purpose" products.
Richard - thanks for looking in
John - pewter will be used in honour of the great man himself. Ideal for the damaged fender.
Richard F - Simon certainly managed to bring all his skills to bear on all his models. I should probably use a load of Green Stuff
Si - As I said I didn't realise how tiny this is and the track is very fiddly but at least the links do fit together quite well.
It was appropriate that I did the resin casting as it was Simon who introduced me to it way back in 2015. I still have saved all the PMs he send as he showed me how to go about it.
Thanks, as always, for your kind comments.
Jim
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi all
A small update.
I've been working on the damaged track. The rear part was fairly straight forward. All I've done is remove the rubber from the front of the tyre nearest to the damage as if it had been burned off by the fire/heat. Like the other side the wheel/track assembly is removed for painting.
The front was harder to do. I made a simple jig and built the track on that. Leaving it to set solid before I remove it. Just hope it actually fits
Sat at the bench and looked out of the window. The rainy weather at least has something in its favour.
Stay safe everyone.
Jim
A small update.
I've been working on the damaged track. The rear part was fairly straight forward. All I've done is remove the rubber from the front of the tyre nearest to the damage as if it had been burned off by the fire/heat. Like the other side the wheel/track assembly is removed for painting.
The front was harder to do. I made a simple jig and built the track on that. Leaving it to set solid before I remove it. Just hope it actually fits
Sat at the bench and looked out of the window. The rainy weather at least has something in its favour.
Stay safe everyone.
Jim
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi all
Si and Andrew - thanks
There are no internal details but I would like to have the front hatch open so I've blanked off a space inside and painted it black.
The hatch is tiny so I'll only add a little detail inside and out.
Joined the top to the bottom and added pewter fender fronts. I'll bend them about later. The gun is only dry fitted.
I still can't get my head round how small this is at 1/72.
Positioned the damage/impact point.
Stay safe
Jim
Si and Andrew - thanks
There are no internal details but I would like to have the front hatch open so I've blanked off a space inside and painted it black.
The hatch is tiny so I'll only add a little detail inside and out.
Joined the top to the bottom and added pewter fender fronts. I'll bend them about later. The gun is only dry fitted.
I still can't get my head round how small this is at 1/72.
Positioned the damage/impact point.
Stay safe
Jim
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- Andrew
JimHi all
Si and Andrew - thanks
There are no internal details but I would like to have the front hatch open so I've blanked off a space inside and painted it black.
View attachment 405615
View attachment 405616
The hatch is tiny so I'll only add a little detail inside and out.
View attachment 405622
Joined the top to the bottom and added pewter fender fronts. I'll bend them about later. The gun is only dry fitted.
View attachment 405618
I still can't get my head round how small this is at 1/72.
View attachment 405620
Positioned the damage/impact point.
View attachment 405617
Stay safe
Jim
Looking good so far.
Welcome to my normal Braille scale world. I'm having the exact opposite feeling with my 1/35 vignette!
Keep up the good work.
Andrew
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- Ron
Excellent stuff Jim.
I'm enjoying the build plenty much.
I'm enjoying the build plenty much.
Richard48
SMF Supporter
Blimey Jim its a mini su that one.Dont think my clumsy mitts or peepers would let me handle kits this small.
Looking mighty fine.
Rich
Looking mighty fine.
Rich
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi all
Once again thanks for your support.
The build is almost finished. Two large fuel drums were carried on each side. Many reference photos show one or more missing. The drums are held in place by metal bands. I cut away the drum parts from a couple of mounts and added bands to show one drum missing. I'll distort the bands a bit before fitting. I also added fillers using the smallest hex punch I had.
One thing about this kit is there are no location pins or anything to shown where parts are added to the hull. I have drilled tiny holes along the sides to mark where the drums will fit after painting.
A couple of things are bugging me. All reference photos show spare track on the front with no brackets or fastening to hold them in place. Would they be welded on just as added armour or are there hidden bolts which would allow the track links to be taken off and used to repair damage??
Also the tow cable is coiled up and fitted on the hull side BUT the instructions tell you to cut off the ends - the shackle loop bits. So I can't figure out how the cable could be used? Many reference photos do not show the cable fitted like this but show more conventional fitting along the fender. Not sure about that
Anyway onwards and upwards.
Stay safe
Jim
Once again thanks for your support.
The build is almost finished. Two large fuel drums were carried on each side. Many reference photos show one or more missing. The drums are held in place by metal bands. I cut away the drum parts from a couple of mounts and added bands to show one drum missing. I'll distort the bands a bit before fitting. I also added fillers using the smallest hex punch I had.
One thing about this kit is there are no location pins or anything to shown where parts are added to the hull. I have drilled tiny holes along the sides to mark where the drums will fit after painting.
A couple of things are bugging me. All reference photos show spare track on the front with no brackets or fastening to hold them in place. Would they be welded on just as added armour or are there hidden bolts which would allow the track links to be taken off and used to repair damage??
Also the tow cable is coiled up and fitted on the hull side BUT the instructions tell you to cut off the ends - the shackle loop bits. So I can't figure out how the cable could be used? Many reference photos do not show the cable fitted like this but show more conventional fitting along the fender. Not sure about that
Anyway onwards and upwards.
Stay safe
Jim
Hi Jim
Great stuff so far, especially the missing fuel tank.... If you look at the track plates in your last image they look to be bolted on with eight bolts......
Great stuff so far, especially the missing fuel tank.... If you look at the track plates in your last image they look to be bolted on with eight bolts......
Greg_147
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- Greg
Hi Jim,
Looking fantastic so far. Regarding the track on the front, I believe these were bolted on, sometimes with 8, sometimes with 6. Some pictures show the bolts after the track has been removed.
Edit: Also, an idea for how to use that tow cable, if you want it to collect every bit of foliage the vehicle drives over!
Thanks,
Greg
Looking fantastic so far. Regarding the track on the front, I believe these were bolted on, sometimes with 8, sometimes with 6. Some pictures show the bolts after the track has been removed.
Edit: Also, an idea for how to use that tow cable, if you want it to collect every bit of foliage the vehicle drives over!
Thanks,
Greg