Fitting metal barrels to a ship?

[BattleshipBob]

First silly question for a while, phew you say!!

Never fitted metal barrels to a ship turret. Need to drill out the plastic breech to take a metal barrel, without a wonky off centre hole!! Never the same if your holes wonky, matron!!

Now the ??? What is the best way to add a centre punch marking for a drill??

 

[boatman]

First silly question for a while, phew you say!!

Never fitted metal barrels to a ship turret. Need to drill out the plastic breech to take a metal barrel, without a wonky off centre hole!! Never the same if your holes wonky, matron!!

Now the ??? What is the best way to add a centre punch marking for a drill??

HI BOYO well firstly dont use a centre punch on the plastick as it may shatter an i fit my brass gun barrles in my mountings by eye just look at the centre an put a mark an the just get a small drill that will take a 1mm drill bit an gently drill a little hole in about a 1 mm then go to upright drill an use the moilbe vice an gently clamp the gun mount in it so it sqaure an the fit the right size drill bit in the chuck an gently drill the gun mountin out an take it easy as if get hot gun mounting will melt an then fit gun barrles hows that ?
CHRISB MTB

 

[Mark1]

Could always make a template from card or plastic then you know your hole centres are all evenly spaced etc.

 

[Jim R]

Drill the hole smaller than needed. Check if it is centered. If it is great - use a right size drill or a round file to enlarge the hole. If it is not quite centered then a round file allows you to "move" the hole slightly and enlarge it. You can use a large pin to make the centre.

 

[boatman]

WELL there you go boyo you got 3 choises
chrisb mtb

 

[BattleshipBob]

HI BOYO well firstly dont use a centre punch on the plastick as it may shatter an i fit my brass gun barrles in my mountings by eye just look at the centre an put a mark an the just get a small drill that will take a 1mm drill bit an gently drill a little hole in about a 1 mm then go to upright drill an use the moilbe vice an gently clamp the gun mount in it so it sqaure an the fit the right size drill bit in the chuck an gently drill the gun mountin out an take it easy as if get hot gun mounting will melt an then fit gun barrles hows that ?
CHRISB MTB

Hi Chris, just got our if the fridge!@

Ta very much, very useful as always

Could always make a template from card or plastic then you know your hole centres are all evenly spaced etc.

Hi Mark, good sound advice!!

Drill the hole smaller than needed. Check if it is centered. If it is great - use a right size drill or a round file to enlarge the hole. If it is not quite centered then a round file allows you to "move" the hole slightly and enlarge it. You can use a large pin to make the centre.

Evening Jim

Yet more cracking advice, thank you!

 

[Tim Marlow]

I use a sharp scriber to push a small hole into the part. Stops the drill wandering. Start slowly, preferably by hand, and check frequently. If the drill start dent (can’t remember it’s proper name) isn’t quite central when you check, tilt the drill so it points towards the correct place and drill slowly so the drill hole drifts to where you need it. Once it’s drilling where you need it, drill the hole at the correct angle until it’s the depth you want. You can lubricate the tip of the drill with saliva to minimise the chance of the drill binding in the part and breaking. The core advice is slow and steady wins the race…..
Wish I could sit next to you and show you this. It’s a lot easier than I’ve made it sound.

 

[BattleshipBob]

I use a sharp scriber to push a small hole into the part. Stops the drill wandering. Start slowly, preferably by hand, and check frequently. If the drill start dent (can’t remember it’s proper name) isn’t quite central when you check, tilt the drill so it points towards the correct place and drill slowly so the drill hole drifts to where you need it. Once it’s drilling where you need it, drill the hole at the correct angle until it’s the depth you want. You can lubricate the tip of the drill with saliva to minimise the chance of the drill binding in the part and breaking. The core advice is slow and steady wins the race…..
Wish I could sit next to you and show you this. It’s a lot easier than I’ve made it sound.

Thanks Tim, very useful, ta very much

 

[Ian M]

Don't the metal ones have the same size as the plastic ones? I am sure those for the Hood were a straight forward swap.
Failing that I mark a drill point with a pointed blade and twist it round a few times.

 

[Dave Ward]

Wow - brave people using power drills for plastic! I wouldn't trust myself, I use a hand pin chuck, and drill very slowly!
Dave

 

[BattleshipBob]

Wow - brave people using power drills for plastic! I wouldn't trust myself, I use a hand pin chuck, and drill very slowly!
Dave

Have seen a tamiya handy battery drill bring used, nerves of steel. Not me, as you say Dave pin chuck!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Great way to make plastic candy floss is a power drill in plastic….always used a pin chuck and my fingers. Not as if it’s onerous and takes an age is it

 

[adt70hk]

Wow - brave people using power drills for plastic! I wouldn't trust myself, I use a hand pin chuck, and drill very slowly!
Dave

Ditto!

 

[rtfoe]

I have done all the above but find that since the diameter of the said part is often less than 1mm I will try and mark the center with a sharp needle deep enough to create a slight bevelled edge which would keep the drill bit from wandering. My power drills are always locked in the precise speed for plastic and once the tip of the drill locks onto the marked dent it will stay and drill in. Both are hand-held, the part with a flat nosed plastic tweezer squeezed closely between the fingers. The plastic tweezer is to prevent drilling myself and soft enough not to flatten the part.
Very unprofessional but effective for me.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Mini Me]

As Tim and Richard have BOTH stated.........prick the location of your starting point so the drill don't wander! Even if using a template, I've seen drills walk right out of the intended location and up on to the template. For a delicate operation such as this..........use a pin vise and a small diameter drill. once you are satisfied as to location then use the final dia. drill size to finish the hole. I prefer an interference fit so I use a drill just under the desired diameter by .001-.002" so you get a "snug" fit. Hope this helps.

 

[boatman]

Wow - brave people using power drills for plastic! I wouldn't trust myself, I use a hand pin chuck, and drill very slowly!
Dave

yes i see your point Dave but ive managed to drill plastic on my power drill severall times as it ok if done gently
chrisbmtb

 

[Dave Ward]

I'd rather spend 5 minutes drilling a hole by hand, than 20 minutes doing repairs with filler
Dave

 

[boatman]

I'd rather spend 5 minutes drilling a hole by hand, than 20 minutes doing repairs with filler
Dave

WELL so far Dave i havnt had any probs
chrisbmtb

 

[Andy the Sheep]

Have seen a tamiya handy battery drill bring used, nerves of steel. Not me, as you say Dave pin chuck!

Not really, Bob: copper nerves will do the job perfectly .
The Tamiya drill you mentioned works at low speed and it's easy to handle as it's like a small pistol (e.g.: a Beretta 34 or Walther PPK if you are a Bond fan ).
I find it easier to handle that than a hand pin vise, but I'm pretty sure this depends on how poor is my handling of a pin vise.

Andrea

 

[Allen Dewire]

Afternoon Bob,

The guys have given you a lot of good info here and it should help with the metal barrels. You probably have about 20 float thingy's in the stash and and I would think you will also have to drill out portholes and other barrels and the like. You need something that will do these jobs quickly and efficiently without any stress. You could drill them out by hand, use a little electric drill OR you could stop playing around and get one of these,



The table is fully adjustable so you get the perfect depth every time. you can change the chuck and use bits down to 0.2 mm for the little jobs. 50 portholes drilled out in 5 minutes without getting cramps in your fingers. Has a handy lamp so you can always see what you're doing. It would fit in the corner of your new shed and not take up too much space. Yea, it's a bit pricey, around €1800.00, but think of all the years use you will get from it with no cramps in the hands. Just my 2 Pfennings worth Buddy and food for thought....

Prost
Allen

PS, It would also have many uses for building StuGs when you start up again 10 years from now......................