Thanks boys, and thanks for well meaning scanning advise Dave. Way, way over my head, I'm afraid.
I've made a start and here's the tools I'm using.
I rarely use the scalpel. My main cutting tool is the scissors. To score the folds in the card, I use the cutter on the left, it's like a small Stanley knife. As the blade gets blunt, simply snap off the small blunt end. Trust me, card blunts blades for fun, so use the scalpel sparingly. The tweezers are for squeezing the internal tabs together to help the glue stick. The old screwdriver is to push the joints into line. The cocktail stick is to get glue into awkward corners. The steel rule for assisting with cutting long straight lines and the pencil for marking parts in case I forget what is what......
Any card, or general purpose glue can be used. I use UHU in the yellow tube.
Here's progress thus far.
Jumping ahead a tad....The pieces are printed on reasonably thick card, but I like to reinforce large areas with extra card. I've used a cereal packet for the hull underside.
The pieces for the hull longitudinal stiffeners and cross frames.
The three base pieces glued together.
...everything nicely marked out.
The stages of a long box stiffener construction.
One end cut out.
Scoured, folded and ready for gluing.
Worth a mention here about scouring. Use the slightest of touches with your knife. Not deep enough, and the fold won't fold! Too deep and you will have two pieces of card in your fingers. The difference in the two cut depth can't be measured, so be very, very careful.
All glued up.
....and glued in place, making sure it is smack on the guide lines.
All the rest fitted and ready for the hull cross frames.
You will have observed this is a waterline model, as are most of the J.S.C. range. I know I would find it impossible to build a full hull straight and true. Leading to frustration and me binning it at the first hurdle.
So I'm playing it reasonable safely.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron
