ICM Kozak-2 Ukrainian Armoured Vehicle 1/35th Scale

[SteveT]

Hello my friends, well he is my planned next build and it's my first ever ICM kit, so let's see how that goes!

I got this a couple of days ago and quite frankly I was quite intimidated when I opened it, so many sprues and oh my.. some PE too (didn't expect that)
I will stick in some images now, the box and the sprues, some sprues have multiples, ie There are 2 'G' sprues and 3 'D' Sprues. and I'll show an image of the decal sheets.

Here we go.. (I've not started yet, just trying to raise the courage!)


Box.. doesn't she look cool?


There was one piece loose in the bag (above). Glad I looked before I binned the bag!

 

[A_J_Rimmer]

Now that's a cool subject!

Take your time, think things through and above all else have fun - you're sure to best it.

 

[Andy T]

I'll follow along too. ICM are well known for using half a dozen parts to make something that could probably have been moulded in one, but don't let that put you off. Take it a step at a time and you'll be at the finishing post in no time.

 

[Jim R]

Good choice Steve especially during the current conflict. Just take it steady. Give yourself a day or so to familiarise yourself with the kit and the instructions. It may be worth noting parts or sub assemblies which may need painting before attaching to the model and also check the PE. Some PE has to be used as there is not an equivalent styrene part and some is used in place of a provided styrene part.
I'll follow your progress with interest.

 

[SteveT]

Well.. here we go, it begins!

 

[Waspie]

Hey Steve that looks a cool kit.
Take your time. Read up on the assembly, do what I do, scribble notes on the instructions. Look ahead and pre plan your moves, dry fit, then dry fit!! Ah hell, you get the idea.
If you get stuck. Stop, have brew. Ask on here or just have a mooch. But most of all - enjoy it.

 

[Jim R]

Ah leaf springs. Often a pest to clean up. Sometimes takes as much as 3 cups of tea and half a packet of choccie Hobnobs.

 

[Dave Ward]

Steve,
with all ICM wheelies, it's important to get the chassis square - otherwise you end up with only 3 wheels touching the ground! Let it dry overnight before hanging any bits on it.
Those decals look fun! At this stage you should decide at which point you start painting, accessibility, and later assembly considered! Don't rush it!
Dave

 

[SteveT]

Steve,
with all ICM wheelies, it's important to get the chassis square - otherwise you end up with only 3 wheels touching the ground! Let it dry overnight before hanging any bits on it.
Those decals look fun! At this stage you should decide at which point you start painting, accessibility, and later assembly considered! Don't rush it!
Dave

Thank you, I'll be careful with that!

 

[SteveT]

Seems I have a part broken on the sprue. tbh I didn't notice until I had the parts off and initially thought I'd broken it, but looking at the images above,
you can clearly see the part is broken on the sprue. I'm not sure exactly what it is or does, I just open it's not a crucial part.

Both pieces are supposed to have the long thing piece sticking down, alas it's only on one. but the blame for once isn't on me. haha!

 

[scottie3158]

Steve, I will follow along mate if I may.

 

[SteveT]

Steve, I will follow along mate if I may.

You're more than welcome.

 

[Jakko]

you can clearly see the part is broken on the sprue

Looking at the sprue photos, they really laid that out pretty poorly … who on earth puts a part with a thin, breakable piece right on the edge of a sprue, without a runner alongside it at all?

As for importance, look at step 26, on page 7 of the instructions:



Those rods are what part C34, the anti-roll bar, goes on top of. If one of the two is missing, I doubt anybody is going to notice — just glue C34 to the remaining one and take care to put it horizontal so it’s in the position it should be if both struts were there.

 

[SteveT]

Thanks!

I've been looking through my bits box and found something that might do, so I've cut it to size and glued it on. I guess all this is part of being a modeller huh?

 

[Dave Ward]

Thanks!

I've been looking through my bits box and found something that might do, so I've cut it to size and glued it on. I guess all this is part of being a modeller huh?

Bet when you've got the body & wheels on you can't see it anyway!
Dave

 

[Jim R]

Sounds as if you've solved the problem. As Dave says I doubt it will be visible on the finished model so provided it's the correct length and roughly the same shape - cracked it

 

[SteveT]

Okay, I have a question. I'm at the point where I have to glue the chassis together and there's two long beams and like 7-8 things to go inbetween.
(see image). Now my question is this:- Should I glue all the center parts to one beam and then glue on the other beam, or do I glue on the center parts to both sides
at once?

 

[Lee Drennen]

Nice start looks like you have plenty of help this is a great place for help.

 

[Dave Ward]

Okay, I have a question. I'm at the point where I have to glue the chassis together and there's two long beams and like 7-8 things to go inbetween.
(see image). Now my question is this:- Should I glue all the center parts to one beam and then glue on the other beam, or do I glue on the center parts to both sides
at once?
View attachment 509009

Personally - first, I glue the two end frames to both chassis members ( to form a rectangle ), then work my way inwards adding frames. I use Revell Contacta so I have time to adjust any mistakes. I put it on a flat surface, and if possible put weights on joints to keep all square & flat - then tiptoe away & leave it overnight to really harden off!
I'm sure that other modellers have different methods, but I've made a fair few ICM models, with their flat-pack chassis & this works for me
Dave

 

[SteveT]

Thank you.