M3A1 BY ILOVE KITS IN 1/35 SCALE LEND LEASE DIORAMA

JR

Member of the Rabble and Pyromania Consultant
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
17,332
Points
113
Location
lincs
First Name
John
I've sent for some Mig double-sided tape, which has one side with a very strong grip, and a lesser top side. When removing the tracks form the jig this morning :disappointed: they broke , but :smiling3: the pins were ok eack side so just had to re glue the top and base plate. Will wait for the new tape to arrive.

Continued with the rear, ok a boob as I glued some bits on wrong.
2022_4.jpg
Didn't see the recesses for the PE to go in, not the end of the world but annoying to say the least.

2022_5.jpg

Decided to cheat and place some of the PE in place after the plastic part was glued on. As the top goes on later most of that section won't be seen. Tried out the new handle jig, pleased as the handle was very small.

2022_2.jpg
also made one of those bar things on the air filters ? Just noticed one of the plastic parts is damaged as well .:anguished:. Think there are some spare on one of the sprues.



2022_3.jpg
At least this part is right.

Standing by for a bl****** from Jakko :sad:.

John.
 

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,888
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Think I need to look at a walk round ! Before I remove any more seams :worried:
Not much risk of that, I think. The whole upper hull was cast in one piece, so any moulding seams you see on the plastic parts are safe to remove, and the same goes for the turret and the commander’s cupola. The bogie bodies were also cast steel, but without any prominent seams that you should definitely leave on. Pretty much all other major parts on an M3A1 medium tank were flat plates riveted or bolted together — and that’s little more than the lower hull, really.

When removing the tracks form the jig this morning :disappointed: they broke , but :smiling3: the pins were ok eack side so just had to re glue the top and base plate.
phew :smiling3: I was worried it had actually broken, but that just sounds like the block halves just weren’t glued that well. Lucky escape there :smiling3:

As the top goes on later most of that section won't be seen.
I was about to say: most of those things will be largely out of sight anyway.

also made one of those bar things on the air filters ?
Those are the air filters, yes. There were two types, square like you have here, and cylindrical; both types were also found on M4 and M4A1 Shermans, as those had essentially the same engine and engine compartment as the M3 and M3A1 medium tanks.

View attachment 501576
At least this part is right.
Oh, that’s a fairly good way to do the idler wheels. It will leave a big seam around the outside that you’ll need to remove, but unlike the MiniArt version, there are no fragile rings to fit to the wheels.

BTW, when it comes to painting, these wheels don’t have a rubber tyre :smiling3: Only the roadwheels do, everything else is entirely steel.

Standing by for a bl****** from Jakko :sad:.
You’re doing very nicely, IMHO :smiling3:
 
Last edited:

JR

Member of the Rabble and Pyromania Consultant
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
17,332
Points
113
Location
lincs
First Name
John
Not much risk of that, I think. The whole upper hull was cast in one piece, so any moulding seams you see on the plastic parts are safe to remove, and the same goes for the turret and the commander’s cupola. The bogie bodies were also cast steel, but without any prominent seams that you should definitely leave on. Pretty much all other major parts on an M3A1 medium tank were flat plates riveted or bolted together — and that’s little more than the lower hull, really.


phew :smiling3: I was worried it had actually broken, but that just sounds like the block halves just weren’t glued that well. Lucky escape there :smiling3:


I was about to say: most of those things will be largely out of sight anyway.


Those are the air filters, yes. There were two types, square like you have here, and cylindrical; both types were also found on M4 and M4A1 Shermans, as those had essentially the same engine and engine compartment as the M3 and M3A1 medium tanks.


Oh, that’s a fairly good way to do the idler wheels. It will leave a big seam around the outside that you’ll need to remove, but unlike the MiniArt version, there are no fragile rings to fit to the wheels.

BTW, when it comes to painting, these wheels don’t have a rubber tyre :smiling3: Only the roadwheels do, everything else is entirely steel.


You’re doing very nicely, IMHO :smiling3:
Thanks.
My groveling apologies John.

Should have posted a lot earlier.
No need to apologise Bob, just look in when you can .:thumb2:
 

JR

Member of the Rabble and Pyromania Consultant
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
17,332
Points
113
Location
lincs
First Name
John
Hello all , yesterday I achieved this.

2022_2.jpg
I've not glued the idler or drive wheels.

2022_3.jpg
All of the road wheels are able to move, glueing them up when placed on the base.

2022reformed.jpg
Decided to chrome the lights before I glue the face on.


Started the light PE guard , bent will glue on after the light is fitted.

Thanks for looking in.

John.
 

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,888
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Looking good :smiling3:
 
  • Like
Reactions: JR

JR

Member of the Rabble and Pyromania Consultant
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
17,332
Points
113
Location
lincs
First Name
John
No doubt there will be much wailing and gnashing of teeth from some quarters when they see what has become of the PE.

This first photo show just how small ( I forgot to include measurements but you can imagine )

2022 SMALL PARTS.jpg
The piece of plastic was less than 8 mm in length

This is where it went, the surrounds were placed after the plastic section had been glued in.

2022_6.jpg
Well its in place, one of the T sections became dislodged, daren't attempt to move it again.

2022_2.jpg
This part went in well , as did the use of the new handle jig
2022_4.jpg

Then it was those light guards, very thin section of PE.In the end I drilled out the small fitting marks and managed to get one to work. Then it was the turn of the second, gave up trying to handle the PE and went for a bit of wire.

2022_3.jpg
With this being the thinnest PE I'm struggling to gauge any depth of field with having only one good eye. At least a coat of paint , mud and tank riders will see it right:thumb2:

John.
 

Waspie

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 13, 2023
Messages
2,561
Points
113
Location
Portland - Dorset
First Name
Doug
With this being the thinnest PE I'm struggling to gauge any depth of field with having only one good eye. At least a coat of paint , mud and tank riders will see it right:thumb2:

John.
That is the problem I suffer with John. Depth of field and I have two eyes, well usually!! Gin has a detrimental effect of vision I find too!!! That's the problem with dealing in small scale I guess!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JR
Top