C
CharleyGnarlyP290
Guest
Thanks, amigos. Should have another update pretty quick. Things are moving along.
C
CharleyGnarlyP290
Guest
Primer and paint... check. And a lesson.
For the primer and paint, I used Vallejo's Dunkelgelb Surface Primer. The color looked a bit green at first, and I had heard others say the same, but after I got it mixed (not shaken!) thoroughly, the color looked fine. Zero problems spraying it with my Paasche, single-action, siphon-feed airbrush. I really like this airbrush for spraying primer and base coats due to the volume I can get.
Next, I sprayed the camo pattern, again, using Vallejo paints. Suffered a bit of clogging with the brown, but that was because the brown was a little thicker than the green even though they are both from the same Model Air Panzer Colors set. Then a future coat to protect the paint and give an even surface for decals, washes and weathering.
After the camo, I did a wash on the inside of the skirts, and the lower hull. I did this so I could attach the side skirts before finishing the rest. For the wash I used Testor's Enamel CreatFX black wash. I used this brand because I can get it locally and I have been wanting to try a pre-made wash instead of homemade. It turned out pretty good, but I am really doubting that I will use it again. I have become too accustomed to acrylics and the lack of fumes. Anything enamel these days really stinks to me. And, it seems every time I used an enamel wash, whether it be this product, or homemade with oils thinned with turpentine or mineral spirits, I have a problem with smaller parts coming loose.
Next, I cemented the side skirts in place. And this brings up today's lesson. In my Youtube videos aimed at beginners, I stress the need to plan ahead. Build sub-assemblies, paint what needs to be painted before assembly, etc.
Keep this in mind.
So, here are the side skirts in place, with tape to hold them while I cement them. Installation went without a hitch. Everything lined up, cemented solidly to the fenders and hull.
Here is another view...
But wait! What's this!? I forgot to install the tracks before I attached the skirts! Imbecile! Pre-planning? HA! Actually, it wasn't that big of a deal, but it would have been a lot easier if I had installed them before the skirts. For track painting, I first prime them with Vallejo black primer, then I used Model Master Acryl Rust, then do the wear points with a mixture of Vallejo Panzer grey and Vallejo Aluminum. After that cured, I used Testors CreateFX Acrylic Black wash. Worked great, and no fumes. After the tracks sat for 24 hours, I installed them under the skirts with a bit of manual dexterity, tweezers and a small bit of non-offensive swearing and gnashing of teeth.
Next time, decals and detail paint.
For the primer and paint, I used Vallejo's Dunkelgelb Surface Primer. The color looked a bit green at first, and I had heard others say the same, but after I got it mixed (not shaken!) thoroughly, the color looked fine. Zero problems spraying it with my Paasche, single-action, siphon-feed airbrush. I really like this airbrush for spraying primer and base coats due to the volume I can get.
Next, I sprayed the camo pattern, again, using Vallejo paints. Suffered a bit of clogging with the brown, but that was because the brown was a little thicker than the green even though they are both from the same Model Air Panzer Colors set. Then a future coat to protect the paint and give an even surface for decals, washes and weathering.
After the camo, I did a wash on the inside of the skirts, and the lower hull. I did this so I could attach the side skirts before finishing the rest. For the wash I used Testor's Enamel CreatFX black wash. I used this brand because I can get it locally and I have been wanting to try a pre-made wash instead of homemade. It turned out pretty good, but I am really doubting that I will use it again. I have become too accustomed to acrylics and the lack of fumes. Anything enamel these days really stinks to me. And, it seems every time I used an enamel wash, whether it be this product, or homemade with oils thinned with turpentine or mineral spirits, I have a problem with smaller parts coming loose.
Next, I cemented the side skirts in place. And this brings up today's lesson. In my Youtube videos aimed at beginners, I stress the need to plan ahead. Build sub-assemblies, paint what needs to be painted before assembly, etc.
Keep this in mind.
So, here are the side skirts in place, with tape to hold them while I cement them. Installation went without a hitch. Everything lined up, cemented solidly to the fenders and hull.
Here is another view...
But wait! What's this!? I forgot to install the tracks before I attached the skirts! Imbecile! Pre-planning? HA! Actually, it wasn't that big of a deal, but it would have been a lot easier if I had installed them before the skirts. For track painting, I first prime them with Vallejo black primer, then I used Model Master Acryl Rust, then do the wear points with a mixture of Vallejo Panzer grey and Vallejo Aluminum. After that cured, I used Testors CreateFX Acrylic Black wash. Worked great, and no fumes. After the tracks sat for 24 hours, I installed them under the skirts with a bit of manual dexterity, tweezers and a small bit of non-offensive swearing and gnashing of teeth.
Next time, decals and detail paint.
N
noble
Guest
Looking good so far. Nice camouflage pattern.
Scott
Scott
D
dubster72
Guest
That's looking fine Brett! Excellent camo pattern 
A shame the schürzen are so thick though, but I guess that's unavoidable considering the age of the kit.
A shame the schürzen are so thick though, but I guess that's unavoidable considering the age of the kit.
F
Fenlander
Guest
Looking very nice Brett, great work on the camo.
C
CharleyGnarlyP290
Guest
Thanks, guys.
Patrick, the skirts are pretty thick. Some manufacturers bevel the edges to make them appear thinner, and I have seen some old school modelers do the same with these old Monogram kits. I thought about it, but figured I would let it slide. I think this is one case where the best option for any kit with skirts, is PE. Scratch built styrene skirts would be tough to do in a scale thickness due to distortion of the plastic when cemented.
Patrick, the skirts are pretty thick. Some manufacturers bevel the edges to make them appear thinner, and I have seen some old school modelers do the same with these old Monogram kits. I thought about it, but figured I would let it slide. I think this is one case where the best option for any kit with skirts, is PE. Scratch built styrene skirts would be tough to do in a scale thickness due to distortion of the plastic when cemented.
C
CharleyGnarlyP290
Guest
Ok, chaps and chapettes, here is the final update.
I applied the decals for the 12th SS HitlerJugend whilst fighting in Normandy, 1944. The kit supplied decals are unique in that two full sets of decals are supplied for the four different schemes one can use. The difference between the two sets is one set is "factory fresh," and the other is scarred and scuffed. Since I was going with a somewhat battle damaged vehicle, I opted for the latter.
In the photo below you can see what I am talking about. Also in the photo are the items I use for decal application. This is the same combo I have always used for applying decals and it has rarely failed me, and that due to extremely thick decals. (see my Stuart Honey review here http://agapemodels.com/forums/index.php?topic=18403.msg251417#msg251417 )
And here is a sample of the results. After two applications of Solvaset the decals have conformed completely to the zimmerit detail. Solvaset is some great stuff!
In the above photo you can also see the result of my rust texture added to the muffler. I used Model Master Acryl Rust and talcum powder to make a thin past. I brushed and dabbed it on and then roughed it up with a stiff brush. Below are the ingredients I used.
After I got the decals on, I did some weathering. I did a black wash with Model Master Acrylic CreateFX Black Wash. I used a bit of sponge and applied some chips on exposed edges, and a brush to add chips around engine crew access hatches. After that was dry, I sprayed a very light layer of dust using Vallejo Model Color Pale Sand and Light Earth, thinned heavily with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Then I added some highlights on rivets, bolts and other raised detail to add further contrast. Then I used the rust paint to add a few streaks here and there. The last thing I did was to use a metal color to highlight the shell holes and battle damage on the side skirts.
Then it was off to the paint booth outside to apply Testors Flat Lacquer.
Next time... The finished project.
I applied the decals for the 12th SS HitlerJugend whilst fighting in Normandy, 1944. The kit supplied decals are unique in that two full sets of decals are supplied for the four different schemes one can use. The difference between the two sets is one set is "factory fresh," and the other is scarred and scuffed. Since I was going with a somewhat battle damaged vehicle, I opted for the latter.
In the photo below you can see what I am talking about. Also in the photo are the items I use for decal application. This is the same combo I have always used for applying decals and it has rarely failed me, and that due to extremely thick decals. (see my Stuart Honey review here http://agapemodels.com/forums/index.php?topic=18403.msg251417#msg251417 )
And here is a sample of the results. After two applications of Solvaset the decals have conformed completely to the zimmerit detail. Solvaset is some great stuff!
In the above photo you can also see the result of my rust texture added to the muffler. I used Model Master Acryl Rust and talcum powder to make a thin past. I brushed and dabbed it on and then roughed it up with a stiff brush. Below are the ingredients I used.
After I got the decals on, I did some weathering. I did a black wash with Model Master Acrylic CreateFX Black Wash. I used a bit of sponge and applied some chips on exposed edges, and a brush to add chips around engine crew access hatches. After that was dry, I sprayed a very light layer of dust using Vallejo Model Color Pale Sand and Light Earth, thinned heavily with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Then I added some highlights on rivets, bolts and other raised detail to add further contrast. Then I used the rust paint to add a few streaks here and there. The last thing I did was to use a metal color to highlight the shell holes and battle damage on the side skirts.
Then it was off to the paint booth outside to apply Testors Flat Lacquer.
Next time... The finished project.