My first kit: Italeri UH-1D Iroquois - 1:48

[Dozent]

Hello, everyone.

Well, here we go. As I mentioned earlier, this is my first model kit after, well, about 12 or more years. Back then, I used to buy those 1:72 scale models and just slap them together, leaving most of the parts on the sheets. No painting, no decal nothing haha.

Disclaimer: Feel free to be brutally honest and tell me the truth. Don't hold back — I'm diving into this world headfirst, fully expecting to make tons of mistakes. But hey, the journey is just beginning, right? Haha.

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Here we are, I picked this kit because it doesn't appear too daunting. It's comprised of just two sheets, and the parts are quite distinct. It's a bit disappointing that there are no decals for the cockpit instruments, and I definitely will not paint those details by hand hahah.

Alright, I started right now and soon I will upload some pictures!

Thank you all in advance.

M.

P.S Got some extra colors and tools:

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[Waspie]

I do like the Huey. Such a distinctive sound to it too!! If you need any background information have a read of a chap called Robert Mason. His book 'Chickenhawk' is a must read for anyone interested in the UH1.

Methinks I'll be watching this one come together.

 

[Gern]

Are those Tamiya paints? If so, you might want to practise before you put paint on your kit - they are notoriously tricky to use with a paintbrush.

 

[Dozent]

I do like the Huey. Such a distinctive sound to it too!! If you need any background information have a read of a chap called Robert Mason. His book 'Chickenhawk' is a must read for anyone interested in the UH1.

Methinks I'll be watching this one come together.

Oh, thank you! I'm also quite fond of it. You can check out the sheets and decals here. Although, in my box, it was gray instead of olive green.

Are those Tamiya paints? If so, you might want to practise before you put paint on your kit - they are notoriously tricky to use with a paintbrush.

Yes, I picked up these ones at the shop. In what way are they tricky? I also grabbed the Tamiya paint remover. Perhaps I could experiment with adding some stripes on the flat bottom of the chop and see how it turns out.

By the way, thank you! Do you recommend another brand for next time?

 

[Andy the Sheep]

I'll follow your build with interest, Matteo.

 

[Jim R]

Nice to see you have a thread of your build. I will follow with interest.

 

[JR]

Good idea to have a practice using the under side Matteo. Did you buy any of their thinners as well ?
Plenty of different paints about, if your going to keep with the brush ask @spanner570 hes the expert brush painter, sure he would give you some helpful tips.

 

[Gern]

Oh, thank you! I'm also quite fond of it. You can check out the sheets and decals here. Although, in my box, it was gray instead of olive green.

Yes, I picked up these ones at the shop. In what way are they tricky? I also grabbed the Tamiya paint remover. Perhaps I could experiment with adding some stripes on the flat bottom of the chop and see how it turns out.

By the way, thank you! Do you recommend another brand for next time?

There's lots of videos on the 'net showing how to brush paint Tamiya and from what I've seen, it looks like you have to find a technique that works for you. All the sites I've seen recommend a thinner which you haven't shown in your picture. Opinions vary on which is the best sort to use, but I guess you can't go far wrong with Tamiya's own X-20A.

As for other brands, Vallejo Model Colour and Vallejo Model Air brush paint very well. You can thin them with water but I tend to use Vallejo's own thinner. DON'T try to thin with X-20 because Tamiya paints are not water based like Vallejo. I've had success with AK, Revell Aqua and Citadel paints so it's down to whatever your local hobby shop has on the shelf.

 

[spanner570]

Hello Matteo.

Another make of paint? Big question and one where you will get many replies......

I'm no expert, but I could never get results I would have been happy with using Tamiya paints (Probably just me and not the paints)

I only brush paint and use Vallejo Air acrylics thinned with ordinary tap water. I also use those little tubs of paint you get with Airfix Starter sets.

The best advice I can give you is to try different paints on some spare plastic. Plastic cups are a good to try your paints on.

Ron

 

[Jakko]

I have no problems brush-painting Tamiya acrylics, except when they’re older and have gone off a bit. In that case, you can discover that you’re lifting paint off the model if you go over it before it’s fully dry. But there should be no problems when it’s new.

Odd that your Italeri shop doesn’t have Italeri’s own paints, of course. Those are easier to brush-paint with than Tamiya’s, is my experience. They are quite good paints, and I’m kind of surprised not more people seem to use them.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Oh I DO love a Huey,
I did a 1/35 Dragon one a couple years back and it was pretty big! Even at 1/48,yours is still going to be rather large.
I shall follow along with interest.
If i can help in any way,just shou.t

 

[Dozent]

I'll follow your build with interest, Matteo.

Nice to see you have a thread of your build. I will follow with interest.

Thank you both! I hope to not disappoint you!

 

[Dozent]

Good idea to have a practice using the under side Matteo. Did you buy any of their thinners as well ?
Plenty of different paints about, if your going to keep with the brush ask @spanner570 hes the expert brush painter, sure he would give you some helpful tips.

There's lots of videos on the 'net showing how to brush paint Tamiya and from what I've seen, it looks like you have to find a technique that works for you. All the sites I've seen recommend a thinner which you haven't shown in your picture. Opinions vary on which is the best sort to use, but I guess you can't go far wrong with Tamiya's own X-20A.

As for other brands, Vallejo Model Colour and Vallejo Model Air brush paint very well. You can thin them with water but I tend to use Vallejo's own thinner. DON'T try to thin with X-20 because Tamiya paints are not water based like Vallejo. I've had success with AK, Revell Aqua and Citadel paints so it's down to whatever your local hobby shop has on the shelf.

Oh damn thank you both tremendously. When I was at the shop, looking for glossy green paint for the top window, the owner cautioned against it, explaining, "No, don't take it. When you see the X- prefix, it's the old colors, and we don't recommend it." In my mind, I couldn't help but question, "Then why continue selling it?"

I guess I'll have to order online or find a different shop because the one downstairs only carries Tamiya. :\

To JR, thank you for suggesting the master set. I'm certain I'll be using brushes for a while, but hopefully, I'll receive an airbrush for my upcoming birthday. (It's right around the corner).

@JR Yes, I got it! I attach a better picture of all:

 

[Dozent]

Hello Matteo.

Another make of paint? Big question and one where you will get many replies......

I'm no expert, but I could never get results I would have been happy with using Tamiya paints (Probably just me and not the paints)

I only brush paint and use Vallejo Air acrylics thinned with ordinary tap water. I also use those little tubs of paint you get with Airfix Starter sets.

The best advice I can give you is to try different paints on some spare plastic. Plastic cups are a good to try your paints on.

Ron

Thank you, Ron. I'll definitely explore other options in the near future - ONLINE - . Unfortunately, the shop downstairs didn't have many choices, but in my excitement, I ended up buying everything, trusting their recommendations

I have no problems brush-painting Tamiya acrylics, except when they’re older and have gone off a bit. In that case, you can discover that you’re lifting paint off the model if you go over it before it’s fully dry. But there should be no problems when it’s new.

Odd that your Italeri shop doesn’t have Italeri’s own paints, of course. Those are easier to brush-paint with than Tamiya’s, is my experience. They are quite good paints, and I’m kind of surprised not more people seem to use them.

I thought the same! It's like yeah Tamiya is Japanese and well decades ago... well maybe still... ok NO.

Oh I DO love a Huey,
I did a 1/35 Dragon one a couple years back and it was pretty big! Even at 1/48,yours is still going to be rather large.
I shall follow along with interest.
If i can help in any way,just shou.t

Wow! Mine already looks pretty sizable; I can't even imagine dealing with a 1/35 scale! Thanks for your interest, by the way. I really appreciate it!

Alright, I'll show you something tomorrow! It's too late now, and the lighting isn't great for taking pictures.

:D Good night

 

[Dozent]

Alright, folks, here's the first picture. Hopefully, I didn't mess up too badly. You were right about painting — it was particularly challenging on flat surfaces. None of the brushes seemed to work well, and I had to repeat the same procedure three times.

I'm not entirely sure if it's correct to paint the back panel where the gunner stays green, but the manual suggests it. Do you all agree, or should it be like the bottom of it, in gray?

Thanks!
M

 

[Jakko]

The rear walls are covered in a cloth material (that’s why it has the diagonal lines in it), while the floor is metal. The colour of the cloth isn’t the same on all UH-1s, though:

Interior of a Bell UH-1H Iroquois (Huey) Helicopter used extensively in the Vietnam War by Mary Harrsch, on Flickr

Bell UH-1D (65-10077) Cabin by Daniel Berek, on Flickr

Bell UH-1H Iroquois (68-16623) Main Cabin by Daniel Berek, on Flickr

 

[Mark1]

Off to a good start

 

[Dozent]

The rear walls are covered in a cloth material (that’s why it has the diagonal lines in it), while the floor is metal. The colour of the cloth isn’t the same on all UH-1s, though:

Interior of a Bell UH-1H Iroquois (Huey) Helicopter used extensively in the Vietnam War by Mary Harrsch, on Flickr

Bell UH-1D (65-10077) Cabin by Daniel Berek, on Flickr

Bell UH-1H Iroquois (68-16623) Main Cabin by Daniel Berek, on Flickr

Wow amazing informations! thank you so much. In your opinion what's the best option? :D

Off to a good start

Thanks Mark! This means a lot.

Now I was thinking, it looks pretty "clean" I'd like to add some rust or dirty on it. How should I move with this?

M.

 

[Mark1]

I would paint the panels you want to weather with an acrylic gloss laquer and use an oil wash. Then re laquer with matt or satin finish.You could buy an acrylic wash and apply straight over the paint without gloss laquering, if you apply anything solvent based over solvent based paint it could cause issues with melting the base colour. Generally you would use acrylic on top of solvent based paints or solvent over acrylics. As for rust im not sure how much steel you would find in a heli, i would guess more aluminium which wouldnt rust ,probably a bit of research needed there.

 

[Jakko]

In your opinion what's the best option? :D

I would keep it as you painted it: grey floor with olive rear wall.

Now I was thinking, it looks pretty "clean" I'd like to add some rust or dirty on it. How should I move with this?

Keep it simple: this is your first model, and for now it’s probably better to actually paint and finish it instead of getting bogged down in all kinds of technical stuff That said, dirt on the floor is simple enough: take a somewhat large brush (say, about 3 or 4 mm diameter), dip it into some earth-coloured paint, and then wipe of the paint on a piece of cloth or paper from a kitchen roll. Then lightly go over the floor of the model with this, so that the paint will catch on the higher parts of the floor without actually covering well. This is known as drybrushing because you’re painting with a brush that is (almost) dry. It takes a little practice, but it’s a very useful technique to master.

As for rust: helicopters like this are made almost completely of aluminium — they don’t rust (OK, OK, technically all bare aluminium you will ever see is covered in oxide, but it’s not the kind of people think of when they talk about rust )