My first kit: Italeri UH-1D Iroquois - 1:48

Waspie

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 13, 2023
Messages
2,468
Points
113
Location
Portland - Dorset
First Name
Doug
I would keep it as you painted it: grey floor with olive rear wall.


Keep it simple: this is your first model, and for now it’s probably better to actually paint and finish it instead of getting bogged down in all kinds of technical stuff :smiling3: That said, dirt on the floor is simple enough: take a somewhat large brush (say, about 3 or 4 mm diameter), dip it into some earth-coloured paint, and then wipe of the paint on a piece of cloth or paper from a kitchen roll. Then lightly go over the floor of the model with this, so that the paint will catch on the higher parts of the floor without actually covering well. This is known as drybrushing because you’re painting with a brush that is (almost) dry. It takes a little practice, but it’s a very useful technique to master.

As for rust: helicopters like this are made almost completely of aluminium — they don’t rust :smiling3: (OK, OK, technically all bare aluminium you will ever see is covered in oxide, but it’s not the kind of people think of when they talk about rust :smiling3: )
Oh but they do Jacko!!!!! Helicopters are a mix of Aluminium alloy and Magnesium alloys. As such suffer from dissimilar metal corrosion. Even something like a FMJ can kick off corrosion. (rust). Aluminium is coated in 'Alacrome' to help prevent rust, but the slightest scratch can induce it. Magnesium is coated but I forget the treatment. These lighter alloys really suffer near salt water.
 

rickoshea52

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
3,973
Points
113
Location
North West
First Name
Rick
Helicopters and just about every aircraft are made of aluminium, light alloy or composite material and as Jakko says, no rust. Aluminium does oxidize (corrode) and is evident by white powdery deposits.
Steel parts on aircraft have their uses, nuts, bolts as well as landing gear structural parts, engines and gearboxes. These are usually protected by sacrificial or hard wearing layers of plated metal like cadmium, zinc nickel, chrome or HVOF and paint.
Corrosion is also dependent on the environment or operating conditions, not to mention maintenance and corrosion protection measures.
A helicopter operating from a dusty desert is less likely to see corrosion than one operating from a carrier deck. I have inspected landing gears on aircraft that operate in Scandinavia that operate close to the sea off runways treated with de-icer that can have severe corrosion while the same landing gear operating in Egypt are corrosion free.
For me - no rust on aircraft. Dirt, dust, grease, oil, rain/water streaking is much more realistic.
 
Last edited:

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,797
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Oh but they do Jacko!!!!! Helicopters are a mix of Aluminium alloy and Magnesium alloys. As such suffer from dissimilar metal corrosion.
True, of course, but what I meant was that you’re not going to have much orange-brown rust on most helicopters, as you would get if they were made of steel.

For me - no rust on aircraft. Dirt, dust, grease, oil, rain/water streaking is much more realistic.
The same goes for armoured vehicles, really. Painting rust streaks on them has been popular for a long time, but IRL they don’t normally have much, or even any, rust at all. In peacetime armies they will get enough maintenance that rust is unlikely, while in wartime (especially the Second World War) many vehicles won’t be old enough to have even begun to rust — especially the late-war German tanks that people really like to love painting rust on. And this is without even mentioning things like M113s that are almost entirely made from aluminium too :smiling3:
 

minitnkr

Rabble & escape committee member
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
6,717
Points
113
Location
Dayton, OH
First Name
Paul
Usually no rust w/o fire or very high heat, which burns off the paint allowing ferrous metal to oxidize. Ocean going is another story w/salt being tough on any finish.
 

Dozent

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 12, 2024
Messages
37
Points
18
Location
Rome
First Name
Matteo
Great, thank you everyone for your help. I've decided to skip that part for now and continue as if it's seamlessly integrated. Haha, it's like it magically appeared! Anyway, I believe I've completed the interior. I admit, assembling the seating was a bit challenging for me, but I managed to get it done :D

P.S Pictures made the seats look painted a bit weird but I ensure it's something wrong with lighiting today. Later I will post better pics. :D6.jpeg5.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Waspie

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 13, 2023
Messages
2,468
Points
113
Location
Portland - Dorset
First Name
Doug
Usually no rust w/o fire or very high heat, which burns off the paint allowing ferrous metal to oxidize. Ocean going is another story w/salt being tough on any finish.
As most of my life has been spent either on the sea or living right by it - rust/corrosion has featured quite high up there.
Naval aircraft do suffer terribly from salt water corrosion. So much so nearly every naval air squadron has a dedicated anti-corrosion team. Life on board a war canoe always has an element of ships husbandry. A nice little euphemism for chipping off paint, treat rust and repaint.
Early on in my naval life we spent some time in company with the USS Guarda Canal an amphibious assault vessel. Seemed to have had two of everything on board. 2 Jolly Greens, 2 x Cobra's, 2 x Sea Knights and yup, 2 x Huey's!!! They spent a lot of time on our ship and yes it did have some corrosion - on par with our Wessex V's. (But not as much as my VW Beetle.) ;)
 

Waspie

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 13, 2023
Messages
2,468
Points
113
Location
Portland - Dorset
First Name
Doug
Great, thank you everyone for your help. I've decided to skip that part for now and continue as if it's seamlessly integrated. Haha, it's like it magically appeared! Anyway, I believe I've completed the interior. I admit, assembling the seating was a bit challenging for me, but I managed to get it done :D

P.S Pictures made the seats look painted a bit weird but I ensure it's something wrong with lighiting today. Later I will post better pics. :D
Looking good there Matteo. You're doing the Huey justice indeed.
 

Steve-the-Duck

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
1,130
Points
113
Location
Medway Towns
First Name
Chris
The same goes for armoured vehicles, really. Painting rust streaks on them has been popular for a long time, but IRL they don’t normally have much, or even any, rust at all. In peacetime armies they will get enough maintenance that rust is unlikely, while in wartime (especially the Second World War) many vehicles won’t be old enough to have even begun to rust — especially the late-war German tanks that people really like to love painting rust on. And this is without even mentioning things like M113s that are almost entirely made from aluminium too :smiling3:
FINALLY, someone has said it! Rust on tank models is just a fashion
P.S Pictures made the seats look painted a bit weird but I ensure it's something wrong with lighiting today. Later I will post better pics. :D
For a first timer, you're doing a damn good job so far! Pics are fine (says the man who's pictures keep auto-correcting out of focus!)
 

Jim R

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
13,726
Points
113
Location
Shropshire
First Name
Jim
All looking good Matteo. Very neatly painted and put together. As Jakko said earlier don't get too bogged down with colours and weathering. That can come later. Carry on as you are doing and you'll end up with a model to be proud of and you'll have fun making it.
 

Jakko

Way past the mad part
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
10,797
Points
113
First Name
Jakko
Ocean going is another story w/salt being tough on any finish.
Or even being near the sea. Living about 500 metres away from that as I do, lots of stuff around here rusts away in a few years or decades, when it would last ten times as long inland. Think basic stuff like nails and screws outdoors, ironwork, etc. Anything made from non-stainless steel will turn brown sooner or later, and I even know a big, expensive, stainless-steel structure that’s noticeably browner on the side facing the sea than on the other one :smiling3:
 

Waspie

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 13, 2023
Messages
2,468
Points
113
Location
Portland - Dorset
First Name
Doug
Or even being near the sea. Living about 500 metres away from that as I do, lots of stuff around here rusts away in a few years or decades, when it would last ten times as long inland. Think basic stuff like nails and screws outdoors, ironwork, etc. Anything made from non-stainless steel will turn brown sooner or later, and I even know a big, expensive, stainless-steel structure that’s noticeably browner on the side facing the sea than on the other one :smiling3:
I live about the same distance from the sea Jakko. In fact, I'm surrounded by the stuff. (Well - 350 degree's. A small pebble beach is all that connects us to the mainland!!!). Rusting and corrosion is a right PITA. Once a month it's out all tools and wipe down with WD40 to keep them tidy! Exposed metal is treated too and paintwork is checked to make sure there is no bare metal. If not - rust!!!
 

Dozent

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 12, 2024
Messages
37
Points
18
Location
Rome
First Name
Matteo
Hello everyone,

Thank you all for the encouragement and advice you've provided. :D

Despite my best attempts, the front refuses to glue together. I meticulously applied adhesive, pressed firmly with scotch tape, and allowed it to set overnight. However, upon removing the tape, it remains unsealed.

Additionally, I believe there may be excess glue that needs to be addressed. Should I clean it or use a tool to remove the surplus adhesive?

Thank you in advance
Warm regards, MWhatsApp Image 2024-03-23 at 22.40.04 (1).jpegWhatsApp Image 2024-03-23 at 22.40.04.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Mark1

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 17, 2021
Messages
3,554
Points
113
Location
South london
First Name
Mark
Looks like to big a gap to glue,maybe something not quite right with the cockpit area stopping it coming together, only thing i can think is clean up to area a bit and cut some sprue to fill the gap and glue it in there this would need some sanding after for a decent finish,probably worth a dry fit of the front screen to check the width.
 

Mark1

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 17, 2021
Messages
3,554
Points
113
Location
South london
First Name
Mark
Personally i think the gap is to big for putty as it will probably sink as it dries, perhaps fill the gap with some thick c/a glue, sand down any high spots when dry and then finish off with the putty.
 

Dozent

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 12, 2024
Messages
37
Points
18
Location
Rome
First Name
Matteo
Ah, I see. Despite numerous attempts to position it correctly before applying the glue, that stubborn part just won't close. I must have failed something earlier on.

Alright, I'll follow your suggestion and give it another try tomorrow. I'll keep you updated on the progress.

Thanks a lot, Mark!
 

Andy T

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
Messages
1,956
Points
113
Location
Sheffield
First Name
Andy
If you haven't already I'd suggest trial fitting the screen before going any further just in case that gap causes issues.
 

Dozent

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 12, 2024
Messages
37
Points
18
Location
Rome
First Name
Matteo
I thought I had everything fitting properly when I tried it, but it seems I made a mistake. I'll need to ensure a better fit and double-check next time. I'll definitely need to pay closer attention to it in the future :\
 
Top