Paint color help

[karkka]

Hi.

I find it really difficult to choose the right paint for a model.
Paint conversion charts are really strange sometimes. Revell iron metallic can be like ammo of mig aluminum. why not the ammo of mig iron metallic would be more precise?

It feels like there are some standards but why is it so difficult to get the the right color.
I have these colors.
Ammo 0033
Ammo 0049
Ammo 0070
Ammo 0115
Ammo 0191
Ammo 0194
Ammo 0195
Ammo 0220
Ammo 0227
Ammo 0230
Ammo 0231
Ammo 0232
Ammo 2053
Ammo 3500
Vallejo 70597
Vallejo 70862
Vallejo 70869
Vallejo 71044
Tamiya X-1
Tamiya X-2
Tamiya XF-19
Tamiya XF-58
Tamiya XF-66

I was thinking about doing these kit for my first build.
Single color no complicate camo. I´m going to try to use an airbrus, so Valljeo or ammo of mig color?

T-34/85, Revell 03302 (2016)

Revell model kit in scale 1:72, 03302 is a rebox released in 2016 | Contents, Previews, Reviews, History + Marketplace | T-34 | EAN: 4009803033020

www.scalemates.com

T-55A/AM, Revell 03328 (2020)

Revell model kit in scale 1:72, 03328 is a rebox released in 2020 | Contents, Previews, Reviews, History + Marketplace | T-54 | EAN: 4009803033280

www.scalemates.com

 

[karkka]

Here for the first color Revell 065 Bronze green. You have all this to choose from only by ammo. what is accurate?

Convert From Revell-General

The most comprehensive color conversion tool for model paint. Convert from Revell-General and many other brands with ModelShade

www.modelshade.com

 

[karkka]

Why cant I edit my post?

Revell 06 Tar black in this chart I can se that mig ammo by mig 0227 Sea blue is equivalent how can that be. it´s dark blue not black.

Convert From Revell-General

The most comprehensive color conversion tool for model paint. Convert from Revell-General and many other brands with ModelShade

www.modelshade.com

 

[Ian M]

To edit posts you need to be a paying supporter.

The question raised as to which model to build based on the paints you have is not a question we can answer in a way that you might agree with.

Colour, or conversion from one brand of paint to another is a mine field.
Most of the time it is skill/luck or hard work. And a big chunk of personal choice.

That converter you have linked to shows you the closest matches NOT THE Match. Under them are some stars, the more stars the better the match. The Blue you are horrified over is in fact the worse of all the 'close matches'. The more stars, the better the match.

Trying to judge a colour from a computer screen is pretty much impossible.

 

[Dave Ward]

Why cant I edit my post?

Revell 06 Tar black in this chart I can se that mig ammo by mig 0227 Sea blue is equivalent how can that be. it´s dark blue not black.

Convert From Revell-General

The most comprehensive color conversion tool for model paint. Convert from Revell-General and many other brands with ModelShade

www.modelshade.com

You can't edit your posts, because you're not yet a forum supporter............................
Some model makers have a hook up with paint manufacturers, so they quote their paints - Revell are the worst, they quote their own paints & give odd mixes, if the specific paint colour isn't in their catalogue. .
I'm afraid there's no easy answer as to paints - you have to research finishes, or just accept what a maker produces, there are always arguments about 'true colours', and there always will be!
Dave

 

[karkka]

Thanks.

I choose the 2 model I thought was easy to begin with. How do you do the paint research? Ammo by mig has some ww2 russian, german paint kits to buy.

Just to learn building I can paint the kit blue or red, but it would nice to know how get the accurate paints.

 

[Gern]

Hi Robert.

We all have the same problem picking colours. It doesn't matter what colour you select, SOMEBODY will say it's too dark/too light, too blue/too red, too shiny/too dull - the list goes on. Sometimes there isn't a definitive answer - try finding out what colour the USS Arizona or Bismarck were when they were sunk!

Have a look at lots of pictures of your subject and go with what you think looks best.

Better still, if you have the real thing close, go and have a look at it; but even that can be misleading. I read somewhere that a museum used the closest Dulux household paint they could find for one of their aircraft!

 

[karkka]

I understand. maybe for start now I can just paint with The 2 different green i have just to learn. But what about thining the paint. and do different brands work together, if they are all Aqua?

 

[Dave Ward]

If you're making several russian models, then try this
https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/russian-standard-wwii-combo-afv-set-ak-interactive-ak11665-p6318/
This is from the shop of the Forum Owner!!
Dave

 

[karkka]

How should I think about, thinners, cleaner, varnish coats. I think i´m going to paint mostly with ammo by mig. do they all hav to be the same brand?

 

[Dave Ward]

How should I think about, thinners, cleaner, varnish coats. I think i´m going to paint mostly with ammo by mig. do they all hav to be the same brand?

Robert,
not necessarily, but you can avoid any incompatibility problems, if you stick with one brand. Otherwise you may have to test a mix of different brands - you don't want to find they're coagulating whilst you're airbrushing!! A lot depends on what you can source - it can depend on your location as to availability.
Have experience with an airbrush? - It can be a steep learning curve if you've never used one before.
Dave

 

[karkka]

I have done som painting with cans on car parts. I have tried in the past to use a brush but that does not look good, so I was thinking about airbrush.

 

[Dave Ward]

I have done som painting with cans on car parts. I have tried in the past to use a brush but that does not look good, so I was thinking about airbrush.

An airbrush is quite expensive to purchase, and on a 1/72 tank may be a bit over-the-top. I would experiment with brush painting before committing to an airbrush. The airbrush itself can be pricey - £30 - £ several hundred. The other expensive part is - the air. You can use propellants cans, but that is very expensive in the long run. An air-compressor is the best solution, but adding that to the airbrush means a minimum cost of around £100 before paint & models! Not trying to put you off, but I think getting a few kits brush painted under our belt before going for the airbrush would be prudent!
Dave

 

[karkka]

Yes maybe you right. But I think it´s difficult to get a nice pant when brush large areas. and buy a few tank or airplane and brush paint them when I know its going to be bad. but maybe it´s just practice. I have tried brush paint the ammo by mig and it feels a lot easier then other brands, but still you get these brush streaks even on small parts.

 

[Jakko]

It is down to practice If you’re getting brush streaks, wait for the paint to dry and then apply a second coat. Also, try to keep all the coats of paint thin — don’t try to put on one thick coat that covers immediately, two (or more) thin ones is much better because a thick coat will obliterate detail, and probably still leaves you with brush marks.

 

[karkka]

Do I have to thin ammo by mig, I don´t have any primer, but it´s going to be thick layer if i´m going to use primer, coat, and all the varnish with brush. More coats if weathering.

 

[Dave Ward]

Yes maybe you right. But I think it´s difficult to get a nice pant when brush large areas. and buy a few tank or airplane and brush paint them when I know its going to be bad. but maybe it´s just practice. I have tried brush paint the ammo by mig and it feels a lot easier then other brands, but still you get these brush streaks even on small parts.

Robert,
the first 30 years of my model making was done purely by brush painting, and with a little practice, it's quite easy. The larger the model, the more difficult it is to brush paint, but it is doable! Tanks are never finished to a high-gloss showroom finish, add weathering & a bit of mud _ a few paintbrush marks will be invisible.
A few members of the forum only use paintbrushes for all their models, to a very high standard, so don't dismiss it until you've practised on a few models.........................
Dave

 

[Jakko]

Do I have to thin ammo by mig, I don´t have any primer, but it´s going to be thick layer if i´m going to use primer, coat, and all the varnish with brush. More coats if weathering.

Quite often, you don’t need a primer at all, but it depends on your paint. With water-based acrylics, it’s generally a good idea. But even if you can’t get a primer designed for plastic models easily, just go to a place that sells car paints and buy a spraying can of car primer, that will work fine on models too.

There is no need for varnish, most of the time, in my experience: you only need it if the paint underneath needs to be protected from washes etc. (and by that I mean: if the wash would dissolve the paint underneath — try it on a bit of sprue first to find out if your wash does or not) or because it’s fragile and rubs off easily.

 

[karkka]

How do I know if the paint will be fragile? If i´m going to use ammo by mig acrylic . If I´m ging to brush it I suppose I need to thin it more so I can apply a few thin layers without loosing details.

 

[Ian M]

How do I know if the paint will be fragile? If i´m going to use ammo by mig acrylic . If I´m ging to brush it I suppose I need to thin it more so I can apply a few thin layers without loosing details.

Try it on a plastic spoon.