Maybe not Chris, the asymmetry cancelled out the torque from the prop, so might have been easier to fly than something more conventional.very unusual plane must have been difficult to fly
I got my 70 and 71 swapped over in the post, but not in reality!Been a bit busy in the 1:1 world, but I've managed to get the underside painted in RLM65, then masked and painted the topside overall in RLM70. I'll give that a couple of days before I mask for the splinter camo in RLM71.
View attachment 343558
Conveniently, the upper surface of the cockpit nacelle is entirely RLM71. I'm a bit worried about creepage under the masking, as there is a lot of raised detail on this plane, so I sprayed the underside colour round the edges of the masking before applying the upper colour. The engine cowling is held on with blue-tack, as it seems easier to paint it as part of the fuselage before adding the engine and prop.
More soonish.
Pete
Did you use Micro Set or was that a typo and do you really mean Micro Sol? Because Set is an adhesive, while Sol makes the decal soft so it will conform to ridges, bumps, compound curves, and other detail on the model. I’d be kind of surprised if a several coatings of Micro Sol left decals in a state in which they can lift off the surface — they normally go weak and wrinkly.they didn't break, but didn't settle down very well either, even after several doses of Micro Set.
I was just checking I’ve seen people confuse the two before, and then wonder why it didn’t work as expected.I know the difference Jakko, and I meant what I wrote.
If I had to guess, I’d say both are very plausible. I’m not sure it deteriorates, but after a little research, it seems it’s acetone mixed with isopropanol, but I don’t know enough about either of those two to say whether or not it can go off.Does Micro Sol deteriorate with age? Mine was old when I acquired it from an ex-member of this site a couple of years ago.
The extra coat of Liquid Decal Film made these a bit thicker, which must have given the Micro Sol a harder task.
Well, somebody thinks it's acetone and isopropanol. Both of those are volatile so would evaporate over time, leaving perhaps water... That wouldn't explain the faint smell of acetic acid though. I have heard that somebody successfully used Tamiya X20 thinners as a decal softener, and that's largely isopropanol. I'm not sure why anyone would try that, or a home brew, when the proper solutions are cheaper than most kits. After all, the decals aren't applied until after the kit has been built and painted, so most of the time and money have been invested.after a little research, it seems it’s acetone mixed with isopropanol, but I don’t know enough about either of those two to say whether or not it can go off.
True But it was about the only information I could find on a quick search.Well, somebody thinks it's acetone and isopropanol.
Micro Sol does evaporate — I had bottles of Set and Sol of which the caps cracked after a couple of years, and the contents did too, eventually.Both of those are volatile so would evaporate over time, leaving perhaps water...
That’s easy enough to try to see if it works. Not that this would be much cheaper than using Micro Sol, though, so it’d only be useful if you happen to have run out of actual decal softener.I have heard that somebody successfully used Tamiya X20 thinners as a decal softener
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