Revell 1/32 Tornado GR1 - Desert War
- Thread starter BarryW
- Start date
peterairfix
SMF Supporter
Looking impressive so far and plenty of pointers for when I eventually start mine
Some fun and games here.
See the missile rail connecting to the inside of the pylons with two locating pins.
Well, on one nw rail but not the other. No I did not remove them when cleaning up a part.
What is more one rail is concurve and one concave.
My first thought, wrong pieces but no after checking the sprues they are the right pieces and there are no alternatives. Neither concave or concurve is right to fit the parts and the location pins are the wrong shape....
I have to sand the parts flat and remove the pins fromthe one with them. Mark 1 eyeball and clamps to hold them in position to cement.
Got the bomb rails sorted too.
Also fixed the HUD into place
I will glue the front canopy into place to protect the HUD.
See the missile rail connecting to the inside of the pylons with two locating pins.
Well, on one nw rail but not the other. No I did not remove them when cleaning up a part.
What is more one rail is concurve and one concave.
My first thought, wrong pieces but no after checking the sprues they are the right pieces and there are no alternatives. Neither concave or concurve is right to fit the parts and the location pins are the wrong shape....
I have to sand the parts flat and remove the pins fromthe one with them. Mark 1 eyeball and clamps to hold them in position to cement.
Got the bomb rails sorted too.
Also fixed the HUD into place
I will glue the front canopy into place to protect the HUD.
Looking good Barry. Those bomb rails (centerline & shoulder pylons) were a <insert expletive> to fit and heavy as hell too in real life. Not sure if the instructions tell you to but on the leading edge of those pylons, black erosion tape was glued to them for a little protection. So maybe you could paint that when the time comes
Thanks for the tip Alan
I have glued the front and rear fuselage parts together. The fit was not great, the underside was OK but getting a decent clean join on the top was a real challenge.
You can see how much Mr Surfacer 500 I have used and I will need to apply a second lot.
The underside is not so bad
You can see that I have glued in the pylons.
I have also made a start on the stores.
There is a lot of sanding and more filling to do this week.... not sure how far I will get beyond that. Not my favourite task but it has to be done.
You can see how much Mr Surfacer 500 I have used and I will need to apply a second lot.
The underside is not so bad
You can see that I have glued in the pylons.
I have also made a start on the stores.
There is a lot of sanding and more filling to do this week.... not sure how far I will get beyond that. Not my favourite task but it has to be done.
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi Barry
Parts of this are testing your skill and patience. The problems with the rails is strange. The fit of that top join is very poor. It will all come good
Jim
Parts of this are testing your skill and patience. The problems with the rails is strange. The fit of that top join is very poor. It will all come good
Jim
I still want a 1/32 Tonka but might wait to see what the new Italeri one is like when it comes out before deciding which kit to go for. But i think it's going to be a GR4 as well so i'll probably be stuck with the old Revell one for a GR1 version.
But thanks to you Barry, i'm getting pointers as to what to look out for lol
But thanks to you Barry, i'm getting pointers as to what to look out for lol
boatman
SMF Supporter
VERY nice build Barry just askin as I know you like building the 1/32 scale kits have you built a 1/32 super tomcat or a 1/32 super hornet as if you have it would be nice to see the builds to help me with mine that I have still to build
In my stash I have the Trumpeter 1/32 F/A 18E Super Hornet and the F14B Tomcat, not the Super Tomcat. I will post threads when I get to them.
boatman
SMF Supporter
OK Barry I hope its around winter time when you build them in case I cant work on my tiger
chris
chris
I have been doing lots of filling and sanding and I am nearly ready to do a priming coat.
The stores
The airframe..
There may be some more sanding and filling when the primer is down. I will attach the fin tonight and decide what smaller parts, if any, should be fitted before priming.
The stores
The airframe..
There may be some more sanding and filling when the primer is down. I will attach the fin tonight and decide what smaller parts, if any, should be fitted before priming.
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi Barry
Progressing nicely. All looks very neat. Can I ask please what filler do you use?
Jim
Progressing nicely. All looks very neat. Can I ask please what filler do you use?
Jim
Hi Jim
I use three fillers:
Mr Surfacer 500 - for most gaps
Mr Dissolved Putty - to finish off a seam or for levelling a rough surface (helping get rid of those annoying gluey finger marks for instance)
Vallejo Plastic Putty for larger gaps or when I want something to dry quick
I have found that they can work together and have often combined them.
All three work great for wet sanding with I.p.a. and a cotton bud.
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Thanks for that. I have found that some fillers work well for a simple 'gap' but won't sand to a feathered edge. I shall certainly try Mr Dissolved Putty. I presume that is not water based and so smells a lot.
Jim
Jim
It is solvent based but I don’t find it too bad for smell. The secret of getting the feathered edge is to make sure it is properly cured before sanding. I have find that you can get that with all three of those and I often finish off with the MDP as it is very self levelling and that really helps.
boatman
SMF Supporter
HI Barry exscuse me on this but whats a feathered edge ?
chris
It can be where you might have two mis-matched edges, one slightly raised. You can apply filler up to just over the higher edge and sand then down to even it up. A feathered edge means it will blend into the plastic without any ridge.