Revell 1/96 Spanish Galleon

[Bobby Conkers]

I reckon I'll have my Cutty Sark completed in the next couple of days, so a head start on my next to get some advice.

This behemoth has been in my cupboard for 13 years. Time to free up some space.

As the name "Spanish Galleon" is vague enough for me to do whatever I want to it, I'm going for some serious editing - not sure if it will count as 'kit-bashing', but certainly not out of the box.

I'm going to change paintwork (obviously) and light it where I'm confident.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

First advice question then. Someone else is doing one of these on another forum, but is going into way more depth than I'm ready for.

I'm going to light (candlelight effect) the interior sections. This will mean cutting out these windows:



My first thought is to cut all these out, tidy, then use a mesh (painted and glued behind) to replicate the windows' leading.

How would you do it? Use a mesh, or can you think of a better method? Drilling the holes as they are won't work, the holes are too round, and too small to square off (and it would take me weeks!).

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andrew
This is gonna be good - and big After 13 years it deserves to be built.
If the plastic window panes are two small to cut out then I would look for suitable mesh to replace the whole window. Your idea sounds fine
Jim

I don't know what size mesh you would need but there seems to be a fair choice like THIS

 

[Steven000]

Nice project, I too think a mesh would be the best sollution.
If the 'window-fill' plastic is very thin you might be able to sand it off on the backside, but it's probable tricky.
Steven

 

[Tim Marlow]

Not sure of the size, but you might be able to find some etched industrial windows that fit the bill? Look at some railway etched kit suppliers such as Bill Bedford models ....

 

[Bobby Conkers]

And on to the next. Thanks for the suggestions above. The mesh idea is good I think, but might make my own as the angling of the window leading might make it tricky to by those right right angles.

Here's the box contents.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Might go with sails this time, tbc. My mother in law thinks she can use the plastic sails as a mould and knock some proper fabric with starch and tea staining.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Made a start. Ignoring box art to a large degree - a lot of the superstructure is supposed to be Revell's hideous Sandy Yellow. Fine for a desert tank, but not for an objet d'art, as such is my purpose.

Pretentious wafflong aside, got the hull largely painted using AKI's wood effect, dark weathered below and varnished for the upper decks. Very much a right first time job, so fortunate it's come out exactly as I intended. Photos not really doing it justice. I'll be doing the ribs (?) In copper or brass, and the railings and leading in gold as per instructions.

Lighting is going to be a challenge, have had to go through instructions in great depth to make sure I don't close up an area before it's ready. Let's see how I do...

 

[boatman]

HI MR ConKers how i would do it is drill out the complete windows frames an fit in this plastic mesh that like i have used on my spk grill on my tiger as its a sqaure holed mesh which is what your windows are at the moment an this plastic mesh comes in all sizes from a craft shop a all you need to do is get the correct size an cut it to fit an glue them in hows that

 

[Bobby Conkers]

HI MR ConKers how i would do it is drill out the complete windows frames an fit in this plastic mesh that like i have used on my spk grill on my tiger as its a sqaure holed mesh which is what your windows are at the moment an this plastic mesh comes in all sizes from a craft shop a all you need to do is get the correct size an cut it to fit an glue them in hows that View attachment 414237

Thank you.

I've checked out a few meshes and none are quite doing it for me. Either they're too thick, or the holes too small/big etc. Also, because some of the windows aren't perpendicular, the right angles in meshes don't look right (they're all at a 15 degree angle).

I've tried a few things, and actually the best I've so far managed is to use some waxed thread to make my own mesh (as suggested above). But I'll keep trying, nowhere near that stage yet so some more ideas will doubtless pop up.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Stuck some bits together with blu tac to do some light testing. Don't worry, I'll be tidying the windows up soon. I may even take the blu tac off.

Waiting for some paint to arrive, hull and superstructure nearly done but want to get them right.

 

[wotan]

Looking very nice Andrew. A little coloured glass in the windows to disguise the bulbs and it will really be glowing. Another trick I found, is to use some cooking foil to reflect the light and hence direct it in the direction you want if needed. If ever you don't have room for those large screw wire connectors have a look for Dupont connectors on Amazon. They are very small, don't need to be soldered and will allow you to easily disconnect wires as the build goes on.

John

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Looking very nice Andrew. A little coloured glass in the windows to disguise the bulbs and it will really be glowing. Another trick I found, is to use some cooking foil to reflect the light and hence direct it in the direction you want if needed. If ever you don't have room for those large screw wire connectors have a look for Dupont connectors on Amazon. They are very small, don't need to be soldered and will allow you to easily disconnect wires as the build goes on.

John

Thank you sir.

The test was just to make sure they'd illuminate enough and that the flickering is convincing. Quite happy.

Got some Dupont connectors in Lidl's centre aisle last week! Those I've used here are so useful for testing, got them from Jennifer Maddox and they're quick release.

I think I'll foil the ceilings. The bottom room is almost big enough to out a bit of furniture and a log fire in - considering this now.

Trying to work out how to do the tiny lamps on the deck now...

 

[JR]

Starting to come together Andrew, liking the wood colour esp and the trail of the lights.

 

[wotan]

I'm sure you know that you can get really small led's that will work for your lanterns, even ones that flicker. Remember that no open flames were ever a good idea on sailing ships, only the galley stove. lanterns were in horn enclosures giving them a warm yellow orange glow. I make a small tube of clear plastic for lamps although you could easily use clear of even transparent yellow straws cut to length. I would try to avoid the red and white spiral coloured straws.

John

 

[boatman]

VERY nice work MR ConKers as John said fit some foil behind the lights so all light is directed to the windows an certainly no open wood fire do the ship would go up or down as the case may be lol but its comin on some nice work there keep at it as i'll be followin an if this turns out half as good as your cutty sark we are in for a treat
chris

 

[Bobby Conkers]

I'm sure you know that you can get really small led's that will work for your lanterns, even ones that flicker. Remember that no open flames were ever a good idea on sailing ships, only the galley stove. lanterns were in horn enclosures giving them a warm yellow orange glow. I make a small tube of clear plastic for lamps although you could easily use clear of even transparent yellow straws cut to length. I would try to avoid the red and white spiral coloured straws.

John

Ooh, never thought of that!

I have flickerers down to 1.8mm, haven't found any smaller in warm white/yellow/orange. I had intended to hide them from a casual view, but the clear straw idea (with some clear yellow enamel I have) might just work...

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andrew
This is coming on a treat. The lighting makes a real difference. Neat paintwork - lots of fiddly bits.
Jim

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Thank you.

I hasten to add, that's not assembled! I just got the bits out and blu tacked them to see how the lights worked in the "room".

 

[Bobby Conkers]

So, I have all the bits I need to make my lanterns, except something convincing in which to house them.

Tried to make a mould and create the tops using blu tac and candle wax. You'll be amazed to learn it didn't work.

Brains please - what would you use to create the top and bottom of the light housing itself? I can make the bit in between and the posts, but can't think of a household object which could be upcycled. I don't have resin moulding equipment...

There is one in the kit as below, and just need to create the shade and saucer (?) bits.