Gary MacKenzie
SMF Supporter
1. I'm trying to keep costs down, and the only 405nm flashlight that gets good reviews that I have found is 20mm wide and as expensive as the 5 LEDs with resistors plus 5 x 9v battery press connectorsWhy not get a little UV torch for the inside of hollow models. I got mine with the UV glue that's used for fly tying.
Which is excellent stuff too
It was pre-supported by Fotis Mint, but contact points were exceedingly small, will take a photo of the supports from the base later , and the bust and let you see them.That's an excellent finish you've got there,by the way. What size contact points did you use for the support?
I don't know when, I just followed advice from youtube peeps ( 5 mins for the bust ) and if it's still not 100% dry/cured ( i.e. slightly tacky to touch ) it gets another minuteGary,
I like that a lot! May be stupid questions, but how do you know when the print is cured? and is it possible to over cure a model?
Dave
Did someone mention UV torches? This is my biggest. Maybe OTT for curing prints but cures primers & fillers in seconds
Steltools.co.uk Supplier Of OEM Spares, Official Karcher Dealer, Karcher Spares, Karcher Consumables, Official Unilite Dealer, Insulated Tools, Jerry Cans And Much More Unilite UV-CURE Powerful UV Curing Kit
Unilite UV-CURE Powerful UV Curing Kitwww.steltools.co.uk
each slice horizontally gets cured by the system, my understanding about curing the finished model is that the outside surface will not be as cured as each of the very thin horizontal layers built up, That is horizontally printed , but most models are printed at an angle so the slice in the final model is actually approx 45 degrees thru the model.Really stupid question time Garry. If you printed that as a solid, then cure it, I assume only the outside where the UV light hits, gets cured? Does the inside remain uncured and therefore still soft?
For anyone interested in getting involved in this 3D printing lark, Elgoo have some really good Black Friday deals on.
I must admit i am still trying to find the ''science'' for curing ( times etc )I actually cure my stuff for much longer(max on my station is 30 mins!) I find it's not properly hard until at least 24 hours after.(this is the Elegoo ABS-like resin)
I haven't yet done anything that's big enough to need to be hollow.
it definitely helps to let it dry off from the IPA rinse before curing, although I don't usually leave it more than half an hour.
It's all down to costs long-term.This is really interesting to follow, but beyond me. But your patience in getting it right is proving a real winner.
welcome, welcome.....Bad day ..... first major print failure ...... the stand/base for the ''v'' character , everything else on the plate printed , so going to see about setting up supports on the ''unsupported'' version and see if it was a support failure.
Will post the successful bits later
one step forward, and no idea how far back again some times.Interesting to try to read and understand Gary, you must be thrilled at the progress you've made since the start of this . I'm like Paul it's all beyond me
For FULL Forum access you can upgrade your account here UPGRADE