Trumpeter 1/32 F14B Tomcat ‘bomb-cat’

BarryW

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I have been looking forward to this build. Here is the box:
608102D7-D263-490D-8E27-5E34F10E2060.jpeg
The extras, not much just resin seats, canopy masks and decals.
70E43D91-FF46-49A7-A7B9-C23379ED521F.jpeg

Her are the parts, all labelled up ready.
C3506480-3576-41F6-8111-E4BA382E4386.jpeg

oh, I forgot - there are a few stores that I have left in the box separate due to lack of space....
8B06C8F2-F694-4328-8342-4F5465997EA8.jpeg

Rather a lot of plastic....

a shot of my somewhat modified workbench. I have rearranged a few things to provide more space.

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I have decided not to get a correction set for the intakes. I looked at the cost, close to £100, and did not think it worth it. So apart from the seats and markings it will be out of the box.
 

peterairfix

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I got a comfortable seat and lots of popcorn as I have just started my 1\32 Typhoon but as I am so busy it may take a while.
 

BarryW

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I had a short period at the bench today, mostly looking through bits and pieces, planning the build.

I have made a decision, no LANTIRN is referred to in the instructions so unless I find one among the stores plastic I will just load her up with 4 Pheonixes, a pair of Sparrows and a pair of Sidewinders. It is a LANTIRNthat really turns the Tomcat into the Bombcat after all. Without that a Tomcat with bombs is just a dumb bomb lobber.

The resin seats look good, very nice clean moldings. The kits seats are not bad either, it’s just that the resin is better.
Resin
8A66A22C-7574-4FA6-97AC-4D72DFE49AC1.jpeg

kit
D460B8EE-36AE-43FB-9B72-9AF044E36954.jpeg

Hopefully I can remove the blocks from the resin tomorrow and make a start.
 

boatman

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HI Barry well you are fineally on the tomcat ive been waitin to see this but now you've made a start im very pleased an knowin how good a moddeler you are this will be a top rate build lets hope the decals go on ok pullin up a chair at the front before the rest of the guys take em lol ps whats this LANTIRN is it some kind of laser pod to guide the bombs ? QEUSTION IS IT THAT UNDER THE STRB WING ON THE BOX PIC ?. An the decals set is that the pukin dogs sqr as I did them on my 1/48th tomcat. PPS YOU SAY YOU have decided not to get a correction set for the intakes. I looked at the cost, close to £100, and did not think it worth it. So apart from the seats and markings it will be out of the box. What is this correction SET Barry ? HOW IS IT DIFFERENT ?
chris
 
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yak face

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Wow that’s a lot of plastic Barry ! Strange the instructions don’t mention a LANTIRN pod , especially as it shows one on the box art and they supply smart bombs on the sprues ? The resin seats look excellent , mind you the kit ones are very respectable too especially if they supply some pe belts in the kit. Cheers tony
 

BarryW

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Chris
A LANTIRN is a laser bomb targeting system. There is a LITENING pod which is similar with the kit, but my understanding is that the F14B used LANTIRN not LITENING. That said, they look similar so I will consider that as an option. It would provide more interest than a full load of Pheonix, Sparrows and Sidewinders. The LANTIRN (or LITENING) goes where the picture shows it on the right shoulder.

There are a number of aftermarket manufacturers who produce resin sets to correct inaccuracies on kits, hence correction set.

There is an issue with the angles of the intakes. You can do a Google to see what reviewers have said. I just dont think an outlay of nearly £100 for a resin set to replace the kit set is worthwhile on a cost/benefit basis.
 

boatman

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HI Barry cheers :thumb2: :cool: for the info an when I do come to building my tomcat all what you teach me in your build will help me with mine really lookin forward to this build great stuff pemission granted to start :smiling6::smiling6::smiling6::smiling6: LOL
Chris PS Barry could you please tell me where you got your canopy masks from ?an how much ? if you don't mind as it will come in handy for my tomcat
 
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HAWKERHUNTER

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Impressive work station Barry. I shall follow this build with interest.
 

BarryW

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I have the cockpit sub-assemblies ready to prime.

The plastic is reasonably cleanly molded, fits well and there are no issues. It is always a reality check when you move from a Tamiya kit to a different manufacturer, There is just that bit more clean up to do, more burring to remove, the instructions while good are not as precise, the painting instructions are superfiscal and so on.

The tub
IMG_1621.jpg

i.p.
IMG_1622.jpg

Side walls etc.
IMG_1623.jpg

It was not a problem razor sawing the casting blocks off the seats but the resin top grap handles broke when removing them. No problem, I just used the kit parts which just needed the removal of tabs and to be superglued into place.
IMG_1624.jpg

In the photo above I can see a little bit more clean up is needed on the right hand seat grap handle.

Decals - Trumpeter's are appalling and I have aftermarket for the main ones but the kit ones are needed for the i.p. and other detail.

Here are the i.p. decals.
IMG_1625.jpg

These will need to go over detail and I know they will splinter and will be too thick. Just copying them onto decal paper to make new ones will not work well due to the blue backing paper. My plan is to transfer them onto A4 white card. As the card is smooth and I dont have to worry about positioning I am hopeful that they will not splinter but I have to make sure the card does not get too wet. I will then photocopy the card onto decal paper, spray a couple of coats of semi-gloss MRP varnish and when dry they will be ready to use. I have experimented with this and I found that the decal paper I bought to be thin and resiliant to splintering, but even if some do splinter, I will have the card to copy again.... More on this later and I will idenify some more decals I will be using to add to the card.

Tonight I will be wiping all parts down with cotton buds dipped in i.p.a. I have found that Trumpy plastic sometimes is prone to having release agent on the plastic which makes paint 'pool', even lacquer paint. The i.p.a. treatment should reduce that risk. I will then spray black primer.
 

Jakko

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My plan is to transfer them onto A4 white card. As the card is smooth and I dont have to worry about positioning I am hopeful that they will not splinter but I have to make sure the card does not get too wet. I will then photocopy the card onto decal paper, spray a couple of coats of semi-gloss MRP varnish and when dry they will be ready to use.
Isn’t that a bit of a roundabout way to make new versions of the transfers? Copying the decals themselves should do the trick, I would think (my preferred method would be to scan them and print them out, though, as this gives more opportunity to tinker with colours, placement on the paper, etc.).
 

BarryW

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Isn’t that a bit of a roundabout way to make new versions of the transfers? Copying the decals themselves should do the trick, I would think (my preferred method would be to scan them and print them out, though, as this gives more opportunity to tinker with colours, placement on the paper, etc.).
I have experimented with that but the blue background creates problems as I cannot get a good quality print without that showing, hence the white card solution. It wont matter for some so much provided I can cut right close in but for others, stenciling for instance, it does not work.
 

Jakko

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That’s why I would scan and print them: it allows you to remove the blue background, and even to sharpen up or correct the decals if necessary. Of course, this requires knowing your way around graphics software a bit, so photocopying is probably the better way if you don’t.
 

BarryW

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I have slowly been pulling together the cockpit.

The parts all primed ready
IMG_1626.jpg

Dark Gull Grey and detail painted floor and sides
IMG_1629.jpg
With lacquer paints it is best to use water based acrylics for brush detail painting.

instrument panels.
I decided to paint the areas where decals will go, black. This should help the contrast and make the detail on the decals stand out.
IMG_1630.jpg

The seats.
IMG_1631.jpg
They look a bit dark on the photo.

I next have to spray a semi-gloss varnish then I will apply decals.

As mentioned I have decided to play around with the decals. I applied the interior and a few other detial ones to a sheet of white card (below).
IMG_1628.jpg
When dry I scanned it to my p.c. then printed onto decal paper on the highest quality setting. even so I thought they came out a bit too light which was what prompted me to paintthe places where they will go black.

I then applied two coats of semi-gloss varnish over the decal sheet...

Next I will cut them away carefully and apply them....

If any splinter or break up then I can just photocopy them again....

I will report back when done....
 

BarryW

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Slow progress with the cockpit but I am just about done.

The decal experiment was a failure simply because even at its highest quality the printer did not produce strong enough colours. Consequently I ended up 'lifting' the Trumpeter decals from the card and, where I had problems, resorted to the spares box. I managed to pull together a reasonable result.

I did a pin wash, matt varnished then used Uschi Metal Powders to bring out highlights and to give a worn metal look.

The i.p. - the dials and some details were gloss varnished.
IMG_1634.jpg

The 'tub'
IMG_1635.jpg

Didewalls and odds and ends.
IMG_1636.jpg

the seats
IMG_1637.jpg

IMG_1638.jpg

IMG_1639.jpg

IMG_1640.jpg

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I am not sure what that is on the black i.p. cover for the rear seater. It only shows on the photo so I will take a look more closely tonight at that.
 

minitnkr

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Wow, that's one ..ell of an office. PaulE
 

Pete Low

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Hi Barry your cockpit and all your work come to that is a art in its own right truly stunning.
Pete.
 

Jim R

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Hi Barry
A very nice looking cockpit. The decals made you a few problems but all sorted now.
Jim
 
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