Most of it is pretty much general knowledge Andy, it’s just the way I throw them together that might entertain……Just seen this Tim!!
I'm obviously in... Looking forward to learning lots
Most of it is pretty much general knowledge Andy, it’s just the way I throw them together that might entertain……Just seen this Tim!!
I'm obviously in... Looking forward to learning lots
Never thought of looking there…..I just went by memory……cheers PeteFrom Wikipedia:
The white metals are a series of often decorative bright metal alloys used as a base for plated silverware, ornaments or novelties, as well as any of several lead-based or tin-based alloys used for things like bearings, jewellery, miniature figures, fusible plugs, some medals and metal type.[1] The term is also used in the antiques trade for an item suspected of being silver, but not hallmarked.
A white metal alloy may include antimony, tin, lead, cadmium, bismuth, and zinc (some of which are quite toxic). Not all of these metals are found in all white metal alloys. Metals are mixed to achieve a desired goal or need. As an example, a base metal for jewellery needs to be castable, polishable, have good flow characteristics, have the ability to cast fine detail without an excessive amount of porosity and cast at between 230 and 300 °C (446 and 572 °F)
Cheers Bob.Not my bag Tim, but good of you to post for others to learn
Yep, missed that. Best way is bending slowly though, minimises the chance of fracture. Some white metals are harder and more brittle than others though, so be aware. Don’t think warming it up is the way to go either, get it too warm and you have a silver puddle…..Just found this - I'm in, it's definitely my bag!
One thing not mentioned yet is how malleable white metal is. On my freebooters I was constantly bending their swords (accidentally), then bending them back into position (on purpose).
In the end stuff will fracture and drop off, but I was amazed at how forgiving the white metal was - both swords stayed whole and even the paint stayed stuck to them, despite all the manipulation.
And you have done that in spades for me, so thanks again!!!!Cheers Bob.
My main goal here is to show there’s nothing to be scared of when painting small scale figures. Figures seem to daunt a lot of people, but it’s really just application of a few principles, developing some brush control, and thinking ahead. You wont get the smarts to produce the superb one off art figures you see on here, but should gain the confidence to tackle figures for things like 1/35 dioramas and be happy with the results.
No probs John. It’s all from time served rather than innate ability, so anyone should be able to do it……at any time if I haven’t been clear, or missed something out, just shout and I’ll try again.Very good SBS, Tim. One can never have too much information. Especially when it is from someone as skilled as yourself.
John.
Cheers Andy. She’s a good lass, except on the frequent occasions she brings in livestockI almost missed this, Tim. Very interesting. I'll follow from the gallery.
Love the cat!
Andrea
Might be worth a try Rick. The sponges are supposed to be mould resistant……..proved that wrong didn’t I LOL….Yo Tim, I have found that a few drops of Hydrogen Peroxide in the wet pallet keeps the mold away.......mine will sometimes sit for a couple of months with no ill effects or discoloring.....don't remember where I picked this tip up from, works the Bomb!
No probs Tony. No need to be a non figure painter, it’s really are not that hard to get acceptable results, as I’m hoping to show.Excellent SBS tim , very useful tips for us non figure painters , cheers tony
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