Billings HMS Victory

[Screw Loose]

Greetings folks, just thought I would put a thread on here about my building of the Billings HMS Victory.

After building 2 static diving subs, HMS Trenchant "T" Class and an Engel Typhoon, several plastic kits (most recently a 3' model of the Star Trek USS Enterprise with full lighting kit) and an ongoing model railway in the spare bedroom I thought I would take the plunge with a wooden kit.

I have avoided these for years as I have heard they are a nightmare and take years but here goes nothing :emo6:

So any advice or suggestions please don't hesitate.

Paul

 

[Screw Loose]

Just built the Billings slip. Easy to build and and a basic yet effective bit of kit.

Odd that the instructions seem a bit out, seems Billings don't give you the full picture of the slip let alone the boat.

I have started cutting out the Ribs and the Frames tonight.... sanding them all down and shaping them a bit. I noticed that one of the frames was a little warped, I have dampened it and put it in a flat clamp and leaving it over night.

 

[steve244]

Hi Paul

Looking forward to this, billings instructions are a little wanting to say the least in some areas and with this kit being a more difficult one i would have thought they would have taken more care with them for this, i have put up some links to some pdf files that you may find useful on my hms supply thread just help yourself and plenty of people on here that im sure are willing to help you, i have found this place to be a very friendly and helpful forum.

cheers steve

 

[Caledonia]

Hi Paul - brave man. Derek

 

[phalinmegob]

i purchased a billing bluenose a few months back and every now and then i open the box and try to figure out which piece of wood is which in the parts list, then just put the lid back on, the instructions are awful...good luck

 

[Screw Loose]

Hi folks... yea the instructions are bloody awfull.

Its almost like they have been designed by the Ministry of Defence!

Thanks Steve I will have a look.

Paul

 

[Screw Loose]

Just an update here... I have been putting the rest of the frames and the decking on over the last few days. I havnt had a great deal of time but here are some of the pics.

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After putting all these together very carefully I was looking the the deck and it didnt seem to be perfectly flat..... Engineers rule came out;

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I think the net step is trying to prise a frame away from the decking as I dont fancy using that much filler. Just shows you all the frames were tight and everything fitted perfectly, seems the frame isnt straight. Good start

On a separate note I was in Halfords the other day and noticed of all things a Haynes Manual for HMS Victory! Bit of a gimmick but some of the reference material is great. The illustrations and pictures are very handy!

Paul

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[Screw Loose]

Well that's the deck sorted. Lifted the deck from the frames and put a strip of balsa in, seems to have done the trick, bit of a bodge it seems.

The next step has been putting the decking on top of the recently modified base. This is the first time I have done this so fingers crossed.

I have cut the strips to length and put a diluted mixture of the wood glue on top of the deck and carefully placed the strips on top.

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It all seems to have stuck

I should have staggered the strips like a brickwork effect but since this deck is going to be mostly hidden I am not going to. Instead I have some thin twine soaking in black wash and am going to use this in between the strips to simulate Caulking. And where the joins should be in the deck I am going to use a fine Pencil to simulate the join.

Well back to it :razz:

Paul

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[mobear]

very good indeed,and a slight score over the plank with a dulled blade will give a good effect of a join,still top notch

mobear

 

[steve244]

Looking good paul im going to be starting a partwork model of AL's victory later in the year so will be following with interest, one thing i have noticed with alot of these period ship builds is people have used blocks of balsa for filling out and shaping the bow and stern and it gives something extra for fixing the planks to.

cheers steve

 

[Screw Loose]

That's a great idea about the scoring and the balsa around the frames. I think I will have a go at both.

Thanks

Paul

 

[steve244]

Hi Paul hows things hope all going well

 

[Screw Loose]

Hiya folks been a bit busy with work so not made much progress this week....

I got the lower deck planking complete and a little filler around the rough spots.... But since I am going to use a diluted paint which hasn't arrived yet I am pretty stuck. Ordered the paint last Monday, talk about delivery times!

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I tried the method of putting dyed string that comes with the kit between the boards but it looked out of scale I think. The string was about 50% to large I think, so after scoring it and painting it I am going to use a Paint Pen and draw black lines between the boards to simulate the caulking.

View attachment 56787 Just a scrap piece to illustrate the Caulking.

Now until the supplies arrive I am stuck..... But it will give me a chance to go through these woefully poor instructions and get some reference material together for the detail. Honestly its a good kit but the instructions are the worst I have ever seen, they lack ANY detail and rely upon the model maker to improvise! But all adds to the fun.

Paul.

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[Screw Loose]

Looking good paul im going to be starting a partwork model of AL's victory later in the year so will be following with interest, one thing i have noticed with alot of these period ship builds is people have used blocks of balsa for filling out and shaping the bow and stern and it gives something extra for fixing the planks to.cheers steve

That idea of the balsa is definately Handy! These planks take some sticking.

Thanks Steve.

 

[Caledonia]

A real neat job Paul. I have in the past used a couple of strands of embroidery silks or rigging thread for my caulking on my Cutty Sark. I put a large blob of pva glue on my finger tips and run the thread through to make it stiff, hold it vertical, only takes a minute for it to dry; this makes it easier to handle. Derek

 

[steve244]

Hi Paul glad it has helped its just something i picked up from browsing various modelling sites to get some ideas for using myself im going to need all the help i can get when the time comes i think so always on the lookout for ideas/methods of doing things, i have seen people use black cotton wiped with pva you know with multiple strands twisted but like Derek has said embroidery silks/rigging thread.The only problem i have seen with using paint pens and also felt tip pens is that they can bleed into the wood.

cheers steve

 

[Screw Loose]

Thanks Gents.....

Great point about the paint pen! As the wood is absorbant I bet your right! That saved a few swear words :mrgreen:

Might nip to town tomorrow and look for that Silk. Might raise a few eyebrows when they find out what its for.

As I said this is a new one for me never made anythng like this before, my last project was...

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A bit of a step out my comfort zone here :tongue:

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[Screw Loose]

A real neat job Paul. I have in the past used a couple of strands of embroidery silks or rigging thread for my caulking on my Cutty Sark. I put a large blob of pva glue on my finger tips and run the thread through to make it stiff, hold it vertical, only takes a minute for it to dry; this makes it easier to handle. Derek

Great idea! Going to try this tommorow!

 

[John Huggins]

looking good Steve i will be watching with interest as im building the Sovereign at the moment.

Keep the pic's coming.

John

 

[Screw Loose]

Hi folks, not much to report at the moment as work seems to be getting in the way of far more important matters like this.....

I have pained the deck as close a colour to the original as possible and put the caulking lines on. It it a bit rough at the moment but its getting there.

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Needs a bit of a clean up and touch up here and there but you get the idea :razz:

Paul

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