Color modulation for car models

[Bunkerbarge]

I have to say Virgil that was one of the most interesting threads I've seen in a long time. Many thanks for building the process up in stages like that to help us understand how this works.

I just have a couple of questions, first, I take it you thin down the plastic from the inside with something like a Dremel to create the holes in the bodywork? Secondly when you talk about using the highlights and shadows in both the rust coloured layer and the body colour do you adjust the paint mix while it is in the cup of the airbrush rather than 'change' colour every time?

Thanks again for a superb thread.

 

[m1ks]

As one of the people, (i think someone else asked too) who asked for one of your walkthroughs can I say, a huge thankyou, that was fascinating and informative and contains techniques I will most certainly use, as per BB, quote below I was going to ask the same thing as thinned / holed frontal arches are evident.

I take it you thin down the plastic from the inside with something like a Dremel to create the holes in the bodywork?Thanks again for a superb thread.

I have to say you make it look very easy, (i've used the salt weathering on an aircraft, lots of fun isn't it)

Your pics are excellent, I just love your wee axle stands, great.

Funilly enough, I was only thinking this morning of the next model to make after the couple I have on the go and was hoping you'd post something like this as I have a perfect candidate in a Citroen 2CV6 in my stash which i'd like to weather in a manner like this.

I assume you're using satin or matte paint to replicate the weather worn paint also?

I'm very surprised to see that you use rust paint on the body but no pigments, i'm quite new to weathering techniques like this but just expected some pigment use, just goes to show what a cracking job can be done with a little know how.

Thanks again and more please

 

[Doctor Cranky]

Richard--thanks for the great questions. For the rust base, I pre-mix my colors 50-50, but then I do add to lighten or darken in the airbrush cup, sure, it's easier that way. I do use the Dremel for thinning down the plastic although another great way to recreate rusted panels--say on a real junker--is to use aluminum or thin metal and then form the panel, and you can soak it in Etching solution to rust it through. I like working with plastic, so it's better for me to thin down the plastic from the back . . .

M1ks, thanks to you too for the input. I like to always put a coat on of rust paint, in particular if I am going to use salt or the hairspray technique on the body. Pigments are fine but I always think that if you airbrush real transparent and thin coats of paint you can build up some real nice rust streaks too.

 

[dm73]

What a stunning piece of work and a great walkthrough of how its done, as a beginner these types of tutorials are invaluable to me and i hope you will be posting up many more.

Cheers

Darren

 

[Fenlander]

That is one stunning piece of work Virgil, many thanks for posting such a well illustrated and in depth tutorial. I know that this effect can be applied to any form of vehicle or just about anything. It is techniques like colour modulation that can make such a huge leap in reality for modellers. It does, after all, reflect real life and that is what we all strive for.

It can be very scary to try such a technique for the first time but all I can say to fellow modellers is give it a go. Maybe for a few times you will not get it quite right, maybe too strong an effect, maybe too subtle but keep trying, as you see so well illustrated above, the work is worth it.

Many thanks Virgil, that is one hell of a tutorial.

 

[Doctor Cranky]

The pleasure is all mine, chaps . . . thanks for the kind comments . . . I've been spending the last five years studying the work of Mig Jimenez (whose tanks are getting more and more junked because he too is fascinated by rust and the effects of nature and fire on a vehicle) and I've been trying to do similar techniques to model cars. I've seen my share of rusted vehicles out in the woods.

 

[simontie]

That was amazing you are truly talented wonderful technique, and a great model, as they say in the states awesome.

Thanks for the lesson

Simon

 

[Doctor Cranky]

Thanks, Simon . . . I started out building military vehicles when I was a kid and then transition in to model cars and motorcycles as an adult, but I am still crazy about AFV stuff.

 

[Caledonia]

Virgil, Superb tutorial, and very well timed. Plan to build a 1930's Steam Trawler for my next project, these vessels very quickly became rust buckets, and I have been looking at ways to demonstrate this. Your article certainly gave me plenty of food for thought. Cheers Derek

 

[sprayman]

A professional and very informative tutorial, many thanks, very interesting reading.Superb.

 

[Doctor Cranky]

Thanks for the kind words, chaps . . . LONG LIVE RUST, that's what the Doctor says. I think for those of us who love extreme weathering, there's nothing more fun!

Airbrushing paint + pigments (rust, dust, and gunk!) + detailing = A BOATLOAD OF FUN!

 

[rogue-one]

quality! this is such a interesting and useful thread. thanks for taking us though. and like richy said.. great photo's.

 

[Doctor Cranky]

Thank you, Rogue-One!

 

[beav1013]

Hey Virgil, I agree with everyone that your work looks amazing, your finished product is definitely something to strive for.

I have a question though about your masking product. Incredible White Mask - Liquid Frisket. Do you know how that reacts with Tamiya acrylics? I pretty much only use them and have been looking for a liquid masking agent like the Humbrol Mask-ol (not sure on the name off the top of my head). but i've read that you can't use that with acrylics. I looked up some info on the mask that you used and it appears to be okay to use with acrylics, but i thought I'd ask first hand. I also haven't seen maskol in the states, but i can get the Incredible White Mask for five dollars on amazon.

Any insight you could lend would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[stona]

That was an excellent and informative read,thanks for posting it. I build things made mostly from aluminium but seeing your beautiful results has got me thinking about something that would rust!

Cheers

Steve

 

[john]

That looks superb it makes me want to try it and see what I can do, a bit of a basic quesion but how do you remove the salt do you just brush it off?

 

[Bunkerbarge]

When the salt is sprinkled on the water it disolves, then reforms crystals as the water dries off. This makes the salt adhere to the plastic just enough to resist the air pressure from the air brush but when the paint is dried the salt simply brushes off and leaves the first coat exposed. I've not done it yet but I'm itching to give it a go one day.

 

[Doctor Cranky]

Jim, I have not had any problems whatsoever with Tamiya paints and liquid masking . . . but it never hurts to test it first.

Richard, yes, the salt sticks to the paint once the water dries . . . and no matter what you are still going to get the airbrush blasts to knock off a little bit . . . the idea is to experiment and have fun. No result is ever the same anyway.

The "salting" technique is very low stress, but it cannot be controlled, say, as much as the Hairspray chipping technique is . ..

 

[m1ks]

The 'caution' area with Maskol is that it's ammonia based, hence the reluctance to use it on Acrylic paints, in theory, once the paints are fully cured you 'should' be able to use it but i'd recommend you try on a piece of scrap first, i've never used it myself so can't offer any insight, just going on the fact I know it contains ammonia.

The white stuff may be ammonia free?, that'd be great if so.

Salt weathering is good fun, I tried it on a Hawker Typhoon which was on here a few months ago, it comes off very easily and as Dr C says, you do get some which will depart the model under air pressure from the brush but most sticks firmly enough until you attack it with a toothbrush, if the paints fully cured you can also run it under the tap.

 

[beav1013]

thanks for the reply doc. i'm going to get me a bottle and give it a whirl.