Color modulation for car models

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Doctor Cranky

Guest
Remember to post your results here . . . I'd love to see how you guys transform all of this into your own style.
 
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Fenlander

Guest
\ said:
Remember to post your results here . . . I'd love to see how you guys transform all of this into your own style.
Oh no..... a challenge.... Panic... PANIC!!!!!!!!! lol

We had a guy on here end of last year who did a Citroen from Tamiya, you know, the Gestapo classic, that was civilian and rusting away in a yard. It looked quite good to. Must have a go now.....
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
I'm off back to work this weekend so I'm in the good old US of A for three months. Maybe some sort of small scale car might be an idea to give me something to play with but it will all have to be brush painted or small squirty cans. Now there's a challenge!!
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
Don't worry, I'll still be on here, trying to remain sane!
 
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premacy10

Guest
Hi,

could you please advise is the model damp or wet when salt applied and how do you remove the salt when required? By the way fantastic work.

Regards

Antony
 
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m1ks

Guest
\ said:
Hi,could you please advise is the model damp or wet when salt applied and how do you remove the salt when required? By the way fantastic work.

Regards

Antony
The base coat needs to be dry and cured, you then spray water, or dribble it on depending on the effect you're after then sprinkle (or hurl) salt at it, you can then shape the salt a little while it's wet and clumped if you want, leave it overnight to let the salt solution dry then overpaint, once that's dry you can then flick the salt crystals off with a toothpick, brush it carefully with a toothbrush or if the top coat is fully cured you can rinse it off in running water with some gentle persuasion with a brush, this then leaves the random patterns showing the underlying colour, it comes off very easily.
 
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premacy10

Guest
Hi m1ks,

thanks for your speedy reply that makes it a lot clearer , will have a go next couple of weeks.

Regards

Antony
 
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Doctor Cranky

Guest
Can't wait to see some of the results you chaps will be getting. Remember that you can use a hairdryer to speed up the process of the salt drying on the water and body. This way it sticks . . . give it a go.
 
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m1ks

Guest
\ said:
Can't wait to see some of the results you chaps will be getting. Remember that you can use a hairdryer to speed up the process of the salt drying on the water and body. This way it sticks . . . give it a go.
So that's why my wife bought a hairdryer, and I thought it was for some cosmetic use, silly me, i'll add it to my modelling tools right now, :smiling5:
 
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Doctor Cranky

Guest
HA! I stole my wife's hairdryer, but then I went out and bought her a new one. Everyone happy!
 
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Splatsta

Guest
\ said:
Remember to post your results here . . . I'd love to see how you guys transform all of this into your own style.
Hiya Cranky,

This is my first attempt at heavy weathering and rusting.

Ive used your techniques and here are my results. Thanks so much for your very informative tutorial.
 
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andygh

Guest
That build up of dirty oil in the engine bay looks so real I can smell it, another brilliant piece of work
 
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Doctor Cranky

Guest
Oh Doctor Cranky's very very happy! I love it, even when you build a model like this with fewer parts, the whole thing really draws the viewer in because the eye is forced to jump around. Love the rust. LONG LIVE RUST!

How did you do the flat tire? Did you use a hot iron?
 
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Splatsta

Guest
Hiya Cranky,

Im glad you're happy!! :smiling: After seeing your work on your Fotki site ( Ive spent many a hour browsing in amazement there) , your opinion is highly valued.

I created the flat tire by fitting it onto a spare rim. I then heating the tire with a cigarette lighter til just on melting point, then pressed it down onto my bench. Hold it there for a period as it cools and sets in place. Practice on a spare tire to get the melting point sorted.

Good luck

Ian
 
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Doctor Cranky

Guest
That's wonderful. I got it try it. I would imagine a butane torch might fry it up too rough. Better stick with the lighter or candle. Thanks, Ian!
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
What a brilliant thread this has turned out to be. Not only starting off with Dr Cranky's amazing tutorial but then added to with other members following his guidance and coming up with other stunning builds. This is brilliant guys and thoroughly enjoyable to read this thread.

I have to say Splatsa's car is also a fantastic piece of modelleing and looks absolutely amazing. The rust, the stuffing coming out of the car seat, the flat tire, the rust, the engine bay with the removed engine, did I mention the rust?

Brilliant.
 
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Doctor Cranky

Guest
Well, the best exchanges are the ones that inspire and the produce more eye candy for the rest of us to enjoy. I say keep it coming!
 
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Splatsta

Guest
Thanks for the kind words Bunker.

If it wasn't for Cranky, I wouldn't have pushed myself to create the junker. Im glad you like it. It means alot from a fellow modeler.......a " thats a nice little car dear" from the wife just doesn't cut it some times!! :smiling:

Its all about learning and just trying new things. ;)
 
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Doctor Cranky

Guest
I have found over the years that building car models as junkers, beaters and daily drivers is a heck of a lot of fun. I'm also trying to do some experiments on burned out vehicles the way Mig Jimenez has built a few tanks and one car in particular. It's hard to recreate but not impossible.

LONG LIVE RUST!
 
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