Halfords Primer

stona

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There's probably a simple answer but why use Halfords primer rather than a dedicated modelling primer. Is it better or cheaper?
MRP (lacquer) or Stynylrez (acrylic) are airbrush ready and work very well. Even if an airbrush isn't available there is Tamiya fine surface primer in aerosol which is very good.
I know many swear by Halfords but I just wondered.

Generally non- model branded plastic primers are cheaper, sometimes a LOT cheaper.

From your examples, you can get 473 ml of Stynylrez primer for about £28, compared with 400 ml of Hycote plastic primer for about £16. The Hycote is a fair bit cheaper (4p/ml compared to 6p/ml) and becomes a lot cheaper if you buy smaller amounts of the Stynylrez.

It's a point illustrated by comparison with MRP's primer. I can only find 50 ml bottles at £6.50 which would make it £52 for 400 ml. The MRP would have to do something pretty spectacular to justify that, and in my experience it doesn't.

I've never had any issue with either of the plastic primers I referenced (Halfords and Hycote). Whether they are better or worse than the branded items is going to be a matter of opinion, but they are at least as good as any I've used.
 

andy55

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Well the weather has permitted me to get in the garage today to try the Halfords. Also decanted some (that was messy) as will brush paint smaller parts.
Don't think it's done too bad a job for first time. Will need to get some thinners before using in the AB as white spirit was struggling to get it off my hands.
20231231_130410.jpg
 

Tim Marlow

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What I’ve never worked out is how you go about decanting paint from an aerosol can.

I’m sure it can be looked up online, but I’ve never actually bothered doing that ;)
I just use a drinking straw sealed to the nozzle with blu tack. Works well! Amazing how much propellant gasses off though. I tend to decant it to a jar then leave the top loose for an hour or so until it stops bubbling. The paint solvent doesn’t gas off much because it isn’t as volatile.
 

Tim Marlow

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There's probably a simple answer but why use Halfords primer rather than a dedicated modelling primer. Is it better or cheaper?
MRP (lacquer) or Stynylrez (acrylic) are airbrush ready and work very well. Even if an airbrush isn't available there is Tamiya fine surface primer in aerosol which is very good.
I know many swear by Halfords but I just wondered.
In my experience, if the Halfords is still cellulose based it is pretty much identical to Tamiya, Mr Surfacer, Alclad, Zero, and others that are also lacquer primers. I used to use it a lot, but these days use Mr surfacer because it’s easier to use in an airbrush.
 

andy55

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I just use a drinking straw sealed to the nozzle with blu tack. Works well! Amazing how much propellant gasses off though. I tend to decant it to a jar then leave the top loose for an hour or so until it stops bubbling. The paint solvent doesn’t gas off much because it isn’t as volatile.
Yep, used a drinking straw but sealed with tape, well not sealed really the amount got on my hands. lol. I'm guessing it's still cellulose based as a right job using white spirit to clean up.
After reading a couple of other threads concerning paint booths and smells (I share the room with SWMBO) I'm thinking of trying one of the recommended acrylic primers.
 

Tim Marlow

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Yep, used a drinking straw but sealed with tape, well not sealed really the amount got on my hands. lol. I'm guessing it's still cellulose based as a right job using white spirit to clean up.
After reading a couple of other threads concerning paint booths and smells (I share the room with SWMBO) I'm thinking of trying one of the recommended acrylic primers.
White spirit would only really clean up an enamel or oil based primer. Cellulose or acrylic wouldn’t be dissolved by it. I would expect the Halfords stuff to be acrylic these days, but could be wrong LOL. Most people seem to get on well with stynylres so I’d go with that if I were you.
 

andy55

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White spirit would only really clean up an enamel or oil based primer. Cellulose or acrylic wouldn’t be dissolved by it. I would expect the Halfords stuff to be acrylic these days, but could be wrong LOL. Most people seem to get on well with stynylres so I’d go with that if I were you.
Just tried the finger nail scratch test on the primer, not a mark, so don't know what it is. Certainly doesn't smell like cellulose.
OK just cleaned the brush I was using with it and it's cleaned, so must be acrylic. Shruggs shoulders...
 

andy55

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Just done the obvious, look on Halfords site, duh. It's acrylic base. So just need to perfect the decanting and jobs a good en. It does seem everyone has their go to primer. Had a look in the shop, and John say that the Stynylrez is discontinued.
Read a review on the Styn and they reckoned that the Mig One Shot was the same stuff...
 
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Andy T

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Read a review on the Styn and they reckoned that the Mig One Shot was the same stuff...
Yes, it's the same stuff in a different bottle. There's a video around somewhere of a Badger factory tour where they confirm it.

UMP have rebranded it as well. They call it their "ultimate primer"
 

andy55

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Yes, it's the same stuff in a different bottle. There's a video around somewhere of a Badger factory tour where they confirm it.

UMP have rebranded it as well. They call it their "ultimate primer"
So it's right. Never quite sure when you read these reviews just how old they are. A lot can change.
 

JR

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White spirit would only really clean up an enamel or oil based primer. Cellulose or acrylic wouldn’t be dissolved by it. I would expect the Halfords stuff to be acrylic these days, but could be wrong LOL. Most people seem to get on well with stynylres so I’d go with that if I were you.
Yes Tim it is acrylic.
 

andy55

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Keeping on this thread as its still about Halfords primer.
Decided to AB some bits with the primer that I'd decanted from the rattle can. Maybe not quite like water, but very close, more watery than milk.
It sprayed lovely. Just wondering if maybe I'm not thinning paint enough.
I know give it a try, but not been modelling again long enough to have built up spare plastic to try it on.
 

Tim Marlow

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Keeping on this thread as its still about Halfords primer.
Decided to AB some bits with the primer that I'd decanted from the rattle can. Maybe not quite like water, but very close, more watery than milk.
It sprayed lovely. Just wondering if maybe I'm not thinning paint enough.
I know give it a try, but not been modelling again long enough to have built up spare plastic to try it on.
Disposable cutlery makes a good substitute for practice in the absence of kit plastic Andy.
 

Mr Bowcat

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I like to thin rattle can paints a bit (albeit Tamiya TS paints). However this is more to add some retarder to allow the paint to settle before dying, rather than a necessity to thin the paint. I usually thin around 20%.
 

andy55

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I like to thin rattle can paints a bit (albeit Tamiya TS paints). However this is more to add some retarder to allow the paint to settle before dying, rather than a necessity to thin the paint. I usually thin around 20%.
lol, tell me about it, had a right job cleaning the AB when I'd finished. Though well pleased with the finish I got. The Ammo One Shot has arrived so going to give that a try. Cotton buds soaked in thinners at the ready...
 

Jim R

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Slightly off topic but many years ago someone on the old MM forum had a theory about primers. He said that acrylic primers relied on a glue like adhesion to stick to the plastic etc whereas lacquer primers actually ate into the plastic surface and bonded that way. I don't know how true that is but it sort of makes sense.
Anyone shed light on the veracity of the theory?
 

Scratchbuilder

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Just done the obvious, look on Halfords site, duh. It's acrylic base. So just need to perfect the decanting and jobs a good en. It does seem everyone has their go to primer. Had a look in the shop, and John say that the Stynylrez is discontinued.
Read a review on the Styn and they reckoned that the Mig One Shot was the same stuff...
I use some IPA (IsoPropylAlchohol) to take off the acrylic, just put some on some kitchen towel and rub off. Then wash your hands after.
 

Scratchbuilder

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Slightly off topic but many years ago someone on the old MM forum had a theory about primers. He said that acrylic primers relied on a glue like adhesion to stick to the plastic etc whereas lacquer primers actually ate into the plastic surface and bonded that way. I don't know how true that is but it sort of makes sense.
Anyone shed light on the veracity of the theory?
Jim, very true, lacquer (cellulose) is designed to eat into the surface. And Acrylic is designed to attache to the surface.
 
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