Heng Long 1/16th tanks

[Ancientmariner]

Seems now the max I can upload is 2M from my device, used to be 12M.

 

[Ancientmariner]

I would swap your Chally for the one I am attempting do at the moment...a 3D printed M41 155mm howitzer, the chassis is a bulldog, should be a Chaffee but, they don't do one. It will be my first and last, pain in the bum.

Anyway, James, I wouldn't worry about the colour too much, the paint used would fade with weathering. I am using Tamiya olive drab and has used a light olive drab to give that sort of effect. Saying that, you do not see many snow camo Challies, so might work rather well.

The challenger is actually desert, though it looks very light, probably compounded as it's sprayed over black undercoat.

The KT is going to be the snow one but I want to be able to see the camo through the snow top coat if that makes sense?

Did you do the 3D printing yourself? Looked at that a lot recently and would like to try and get I to doing some bits.

 

[eddiesolo]

The challenger is actually desert, though it looks very light, probably compounded as it's sprayed over black undercoat.

The KT is going to be the snow one but I want to be able to see the camo through the snow top coat if that makes sense?

Did you do the 3D printing yourself? Looked at that a lot recently and would like to try and get I to doing some bits.

Sorry, no idea why I thought the Chally was olive, I have seen it and replied LOL. I think the colour looks fine, it has that sun kissed, sand blasted weathered look.

I got a 3D part kits from someone who bodged it and the wiring, so a lot to sort out. The print has been done on a large printer at low res, the finish isn't great, loads of primer filler and it still looks crap. If you go down that route, get the best you can afford with a good thermal rating, large print bed, good software and top quality filament.

 

[Ancientmariner]

 

[eddiesolo]

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Nice job on the KT.

 

[Ancientmariner]

I am not sure whether to put another line on the right side, where it comes down the turret. It goes under across the back but from the side looks like a lines missing if you know what I mean?

 

[eddiesolo]

I am not sure whether to put another line on the right side, where it comes down the turret. It goes under across the back but from the side looks like a lines missing if you know what I mean?

Looks okay to me but, if it bugs you, it will always bug you. Better to do the job now before you start weathering and detailing.

 

[eddiesolo]

This is what I am working on at the moment. The M41 'Gorilla'.

I have moved on with paint and weathering and various details, just not got any newer pics.

 

[Ancientmariner]

That looks amazing!!! How hard is it to scan/design models to print? Is that solid?

 

[Ancientmariner]

Oh and what scale is that?

 

[eddiesolo]

That looks amazing!!! How hard is it to scan/design models to print? Is that solid?

Hi James, there are various software programs and downloads you can get. I got this from a guy who got it from somebody else, but he bodged it and left it.

3D prints are normally like a honeycomb, so strong and light but they can shear/shatter if dropped and are a pain to dril, you have to go slow. Again it depends on the size, quality of the printer then software that works with your printer and then using a good quality filament. Also the print time as you will need to leave it running all night for certain pieces.

 

[eddiesolo]

Oh and what scale is that?

This is 1/16 and will be RC.

 

[Ancientmariner]

Looks great! Might have to requisition a 3D printer next at now......

 

[adt70hk]

I am not sure whether to put another line on the right side, where it comes down the turret. It goes under across the back but from the side looks like a lines missing if you know what I mean?

I think another set of lines would look better.

 

[Ancientmariner]

So have put tracks on the KT and started chipping raised edges. Something I haven't done before but coming out ok. Not sure how it will look when I spray white over it all.

Anyway found chipping good but it's hard to get the point where's it's enough and not too much....
Tried to show where the wire has been dragged across and scuffed the paint. Pondering putting brown in to make it look rusted in parts.

 

[adt70hk]

I'm still learning in the chipping front too. I adopt the 'less is more' approach and when I think I could carry on and do a bit more, stop and put it to one side for a few hours. It's easy enough to add more but virtually impossible to undo....

Keep up the great work.

Andrew

 

[Ancientmariner]

I'm still learning in the chipping front too. I adopt the 'less is more' approach and when I think I could carry on and do a bit more, stop and put it to one side for a few hours. It's easy enough to add more but virtually impossible to undo....

Keep up the great work.

Andrew

I know what you mean. I am trying to envisage where the wires would scrape the paint and also where boots and tools getting on and off the tank would do the same.

As for the challenger not sure it's worth it with the light surface colour or maybe chip with red oxide?

 

[adt70hk]

As for the challenger not sure it's worth it with the light surface colour or maybe chip with red oxide?

James

Sorry can't help on that front. I know even less about modern armour than I do WW2 stuff.

Perhaps one of the others will know.

ATB.

Andrew

 

[eddiesolo]

Chipping can be awkward, you have to scale it and add it where it needs more or less. I have done chipping, used the salt method, liquid latex masking and the hairspray method. All have good and bad points.

The salt method is the easiest, drop your water on and sprinkle some fine salt then spray your top coat, use a stiff toothbrush to remove. Problem is for small detail areas, it can be problematic as you get clumping. A bonus to this method is that the salt helps to scour the surface and dull the paintwork giving that dull worn weathered look.

Liquid latex mask is handy but again it clumps and I found it unwieldy for delicate work. Slap on, let it dry and do your top coat then scrub the latex off, can be time consuming as it sticks all over and takes a fair bit of cleaning.

The Hairspray method is the best but you have a few steps to do. Your base/primer coat or weathering coat, then apply a varnish coat to protect the undercoat, then apply your hairspray (canned isn't always the best, you are better getting either a product ready made or decant some for use in your hairbrush but use quickly. Apply your top coat and then use a small stiff brush and water to dab away at the areas you have got the hairspray, it will come away with the paint, leaving the undercoat behind. When done, make sure you use a matt varnish to seal the model. I may have gotten the order wrong on this as it isn't something I use now and haven't done in a long time.

Also. wear is a important factor to look for, most tanks paintwork is pretty tough, it has to be, but you will get wear from hobnailed boots up and done, especially near hatches. Scrapes from foliage brickwork, hatche edges from closing and bringing in ammo, shells.

I also use graphite pencils to add a metallic wear sheen to top edges, hatches, you can add some and use your finger to smear and wear pattern. You just get a hint of metallic wear. Also, a black oil wash-oil paint and white thinners apply with a brush and use a makeup wedge sponge to dab, this will tone down the paintwork and make it look dirty.

This is my 1/35 'TANK OVERHAUL' dio using the liquid latex method. Red oxide, latex and then grey primer.

The 1/16 Tiger wear was all done by hand by scratching the surface with a very small screwdriver, never again as it took forever.

 

[Ancientmariner]

Love the rusting on that one, that is amazing!

It's too late for most of those methods now as I have already painted them. Will give the rusting a go though!