HMS King George V - 1/350 Tamiya

[Caledonia]

Ron, have a look at this website, they do the 4 Rail Handrail. Have used them a few times. Used to be able to obtain them through White Ensign. They have a lot of interesting stuff.

http://northstarmodels.com/product-category/1350/page/11/

Derek

 

[Dave Garrett]

how do you get the main guns to move individually please on the pow they are moulded together ???

 

[Caledonia]

By chance today, we had some calm weather this afternoon and sunshine, so used a new technique for priming. I warmed up the aerosol primer cans, and dashed outside and sprayed the Ship and components individually. Gave each batch three light coats, leaving about 10 minutes in a warm room to dry. Seemed to work fine. Will leave the primer for at least 24 hours to cure.

View attachment 97863

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Funny how you don't spot small blemishes (on the hull) until you prime. Will repair after the curing period. Derek

 

[Caledonia]

how do you get the main guns to move individually please on the pow they are moulded together ???

Depends what you want.

If you want them raised at different elevations and static, then you can cut off the existing barrels and cement them at different radial locations around the original circular core, the same applies if you are using substitute metal ones, see below.

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If you want to be able to move them at different positions on the finished model, then you would need to drill a central hole along the circular section, insert a metal shaft or tubing and slice the four barrel hinges with a photo etch saw.

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Derek

 

[Dave Garrett]

thanks derek i will try that method as i have already glued all the metal barrels in place

 

[Graham D]

Regarding fixing the rails, I use a medium cyno and put spots along the length of the rail, just to hold it in place, then I either use thinned PVA with a brush so that it 'wicks' along the deck/rail join or I use thin cyno so that it also 'wicks' into the joint. The PVA does take longer to dry and isn't quite as strong, but I find it is easier to use than thin cyno.

 

[Caledonia]

Regarding fixing the rails, I use a medium cyno and put spots along the length of the rail, just to hold it in place, then I either use thinned PVA with a brush so that it 'wicks' along the deck/rail join or I use thin cyno so that it also 'wicks' into the joint. The PVA does take longer to dry and isn't quite as strong, but I find it is easier to use than thin cyno.

Problem Ron has is that his Handrails rest on the posts, and does not have a fourth rail to glue, hence wicking action is not possible. Derek

 

[Dave Garrett]

i have drilled a hole on the double main guns and im tying a metal rod and other material like cocktail stick plastruct one will work i'm sure.

i have another question to ask. can you remember what colour you painted the deck hatches as the colour that tamiya suggest bottom hull colour does not look right so i was thinking tamiya acrylic XF20 medium grey ?

 

[Graham D]

Problem Ron has is that his Handrails rest on the posts, and does not have a fourth rail to glue, hence wicking action is not possible. Derek

Ok, I missed that bit. Teach me to read a post properly!

 

[Caledonia]

i have drilled a hole on the double main guns and im tying a metal rod and other material like cocktail stick plastruct one will work i'm sure.i have another question to ask. can you remember what colour you painted the deck hatches as the colour that tamiya suggest bottom hull colour does not look right so i was thinking tamiya acrylic XF20 medium grey ?

Dave, At the moment I have only primed the vessel, but you will see the colours I have chosen in my posting #71. The effect I am trying to achieve is as the photo below. I will use the superstructure colours for all the deck fittings and handrails. I will not be using a different colour for the torpedo belt.

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Cheers Derek

 

[John Rixon]

Extraordinary work! That PE really looks the business, I'd really struggle with it, having only used it once on the Scorpion I'm building, scares the bejesus out of me:eek:. But, the crispness of it, once painted, cannot be underestimated, the person who puts an HD video of actually cutting this stuff up and sticking it together, will get an awful lot of views!

 

[Ian M]

Just had a catch up on this thread! OMG!

Some great work going on here. And You got Ron to buy PE!!!

Very neat and tidy.

Ian M

 

[flyjoe180]

Superb work Derek, great job with all that PE.

 

[Dave Garrett]

thanks derek i'll go for the lighter grey then.

should i do all the photo etch on the kit then prime it and paint it obviously leave the wooden deck till the last ?

 

[Caledonia]

thanks derek i'll go for the lighter grey then.should i do all the photo etch on the kit then prime it and paint it obviously leave the wooden deck till the last ?

There are no hard and fast rules Dave, some people like to paint a lot of sub assemblies as they go along, others like to do it in larger pieces. My problem is I don't have a dedicated modelling workshop, so every time I want to spray, I have to set up the equipment and clean up after, so its to my benefit to use as large assemblies as possible. Another thing to consider is the more bits you have finish painted, the more joints you may have showing. You will see how I have broken my model down for painting, and how I have fitted all the PE prior to painting. Note the superstructure is all cemented together with the boat deck but still not cemented to the ships deck so that I can fit the wooden deck, but the Captain's and Admiral's bridge are still loose as I need access for painting the steel decks a darker grey.

Recommend you do a detailed dry fit of your wooden deck, as it may need some trimming as mine did, as I reported in recent previous posts above. Derek

p.s. another photo showing the light grey deck fittings on the KGV

View attachment 98112

 

[Dave Garrett]

thanks again derek i guess what i'll do is to do all the brass work first and see where we go from there.

are you going to continue the build log to the very end of the build ?

 

[Dave Garrett]

by the way this is an amazing build you have done so far you have the patience of a saint with all that brass work involved.

 

[Caledonia]

are you going to continue the build log to the very end of the build ?

Hi Dave, Yes I will be posting to the bitter end. Have airbrushed the whole Hull with the Boot Stripe colour, and tomorrow I will be masking off and painting the upper Hull it's finished colour, full detail in my next weekly update. I won't be painting the lower hull 'red' as I plan to do a seascape like HMS Roberts http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/finished-hms-roberts-ww2-monitor-1-350-trumpeter.28092/ this is also why I am not fitting the Rudder and Props. For KGV I will attempt a North Atlantic gale with the ship turning to bring it's guns to bear. Derek

p.s. A word of advise, try to shape your PE exactly to the shape required, don't think that you can live with a little spring, it makes life very hard when it comes to glueing. Some people anneal their PE before bending, I have never found it necessary.

 

[Dave Garrett]

thanks for the advice i have made a start on the lifeboats i have the brass set that you have and they look amazing when they are done considering it's my first attempt at photo etch i think i've done quite well so far.

 

[Dave Garrett]

i look forward to your weekly updates derek.

how long has it taken you so far ?