The wording of the description that you posted was very vague ( not you
) , some of us thought it was solid, other like me thought ply.
I also thought it would be plywood, but following Peter’s comments I suspect it was planks. That could make a difference to the model, because with planks you might “have” to scribe the seams between them. OTOH, I’ve not been able to spot any in photos, so …
I'd guess the latter. The door hinges seem to be riveted to reinforcement bar (angle iron?) which wouldn't be necessary if there was already a steel frame.
Quite possibly, yes. Not that it matters for modelling, but it’s nice to speculate
As for the model … I thought I’d be clever and size the drawings to 1:35 scale, then print them out, so I have an easy reference that I can just measure in directly. But look:
I made a mistake somewhere, so that the drawings are too large
I guess I’ll have to give it a second try and return to the museum in Westkapelle to print them out again — the boat is big enough that you need an A3 sheet to fit it on, and I don’t have an A3 printer
You could of course print out both halves on A4 and stick them together, but a single sheet is easier to work with.
That slight setback discovered, I took another good look at the floor parts, and decided that I will need to replace the whole troop compartment floor. It needs to run from frame 5 to 16, but the kit floor goes from about 6.5 to 16. What I did was trace the kit part onto a piece of 1 mm plastic card using the tip of a knife:
The pencil line is how long the floor needs to be. After cutting it out:
Trying it in the hull, you can see it’s now the right length:
But it can’t fit between the frames, because it doesn’t have the cut-outs that the kit floor does. I first tried putting those in, but that’s fraught with problems. Then it hit me that I don’t need to add them at all, because I will be adding floatation cells between the frames — meaning I can just cut off the edges so the floor fits
between the upright parts of the frames. I put the kit floor onto my replacement again, held it down tightly and used a sharp needle to prick at the end of the cut-outs in the kit part. Then I could just connect the marks with a knife and steel ruler:
Marked at the bottom, cut at the top. That just left the front part, for which I just measured the distance between the ribs. With the sides cut off, the floor fits inside the hull:
And the difference with the kit part:
Then the planking. It turns out the kit’s planks are 4 mm wide, and I saw no good reason to deviate from that, so I just marked out the centreline and then a line every 4 mm:
All that was left to do was go over the lines with a
Tamiya plastic cutter/scriber/whatever:
I decided I could also salvage the forward part of the kit’s front floor:
I simply cut it off at the third frame, and will now have to build the sloping floor and the floors for the steering and MG positions as well.