Neo refused to spray.

Andy T

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Andy and Barry , thank you .
I've some AK real colour and a bottle of their thinners , would this work with the MRP or the MR Colour . These are all " lacquer " as far as I can understand .
I'd certainly keep all my Acrylics for brush painting like Barry .
Any ideas ?
I'm not certain John as I haven't tried it myself, but my gut would say yes. I've certainly mixed mrp & Mr color together when I hadn't got the right colour for something.

Edit: I've just seen a video on AK's official channel where they test real color with Mr color thinner and it works fine, so my hunch was right.
 
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BarryW

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Andy and Barry , thank you .
I've some AK real colour and a bottle of their thinners , would this work with the MRP or the MR Colour . These are all " lacquer " as far as I can understand .
I'd certainly keep all my Acrylics for brush painting like Barry .
Any ideas ?
John. I should think that is fine. I would, however, as with any combination of products, do a test on an old kit, spoons or a plastic bottle.
 
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David Lovell

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John up till now you've got on fine with your third gen paints ,persevere with the airbrush problem first before knee jerk reactions jumping to a diffrent product. Get some mr hobby tool cleaner give the airbrush a proper soaking and scrub this stuff is the mutts for the price of a bottle mate if it dont work fair enough but changing all your paints come on buddy try and solve it first. Dont get sucked into the acrylic vs lacquer thing there's absolutely nothing to say same won't happen again. Dave
 

David Lovell

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John im pretty sure you can get your AB totally overhauled at the airbrush company Ltd ,iwata dealers got to be cheaper than changing all your paints AGAIN?!!!
I think airbrush company .com . I've bought hoses and paints from them good company to deal with. Dave
 
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JR

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I'm not certain John as I haven't tried it myself, but my gut would say yes. I've certainly mixed mrp & Mr color together when I hadn't got the right colour for something.

Edit: I've just seen a video on AK's official channel where they test real color with Mr color thinner and it works fine, so my hunch was right.
John. I should think that is fine. I would, however, as with any combination of products, do a test on an old kit, spoons or a plastic bottle.
John im pretty sure you can get your AB totally overhauled at the airbrush company Ltd ,iwata dealers got to be cheaper than changing all your paints AGAIN?!!!
I think airbrush company .com . I've bought hoses and paints from them good company to deal with. Dave
Thanks guys.
Yes Dave its a normal thing to jump out of the frying pan into the fire , Its just get me down that although I clean and do things right, it always seems to happen. Get to the point where I don't want to spray because it might happen . Never one to give up ! Looked at them last night as well . Thanks .
 

stillp

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John im pretty sure you can get your AB totally overhauled at the airbrush company Ltd ,iwata dealers got to be cheaper than changing all your paints AGAIN?!!!
I think airbrush company .com . I've bought hoses and paints from them good company to deal with. Dave
Not cheap though Dave - £54 plus parts. I'd expect them to change all the seals as well as the needle and nozzle, so they won't be cheap.
Pete
 

stillp

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I'm no airbrush expert, but what could possibly go wrong? If the needle and nozzle and seals are OK, then it can only be crud somewhere.
Pete
 

Tim Marlow

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I'm no airbrush expert, but what could possibly go wrong? If the needle and nozzle and seals are OK, then it can only be crud somewhere.
Pete
Totally agree Pete. An airbrush is basically an air tube and a paint path. The air mixes with the air as a vortex as the air goes past the paint path, and the nozzle on the end controls flow of the subsequent mix. It’s a simple idea, but the finesse of the engineering makes them as flexible and refined as they are.

Let’s try to analyse this…..if you can sort this yourself John you will not only save money, you’ll learn more about how your airbrush works…..and sort it out more quickly next time….

If you cant get air/paint out of the nozzle it must be caused by a blockage in the air/paint mix path. The blockage must be located in the body of the brush after the paint and airflow mix. If the blockage was further back in either path you would either get no air, or no paint. The paint and air paths themselves can therefore be taken as clear and working as expected.

If you are getting air back up the paint path into the paint cup then the blockage has occurred after the paint has been mixed into the airflow, and the air can only escape via the paint path.

The most likely place for the blockage is a very small crud lump in the nozzle, which is the most restricted part of the flow path. 0.2 is pretty small for general work, after all, and is better suited to inks (that have finer pigments) rather than paints. This is shown by your nozzle and needle change getting the brush back to working order.

I would definitely go with Dave’s tool cleaner suggestion. Soak all the air/paint path parts at least overnight and then scrub the large tubes out with the small bottle brushes you can get for the purpose. You can use an old nylon paintbrush to clean through the finer parts.

I would then try flushing through the nozzle with cellulose thinners using a pipette. Fill the pipette, push the pointed end of the nozzle into the pipette, and then expel the cleaning agent slowly backwards through the part using the pipette. Only clean it backwards! You don’t want to drive any blockage further in, especially if it is insoluble…..repeat this several times. Once you get easy flow through then the part is probably clean. Keep the flow slow and controlled. You want the solvent to dissolve away the blockage, not expel it by main force.

Clean the needle by drawing it through a fold of kitchen towel dampened with cleaning fluid. If the needle is dirty you will get a paint line on the paper. Repeat this until the fold stays clean.

Lastly, have a good look through the nozzle against a good light source using a jewellers loupe or such. You should be able to see light through the hole…..if you can’t, it’s probably still blocked. Repeat the processes above until you can see through it.

Lastly, I would rethink using a 0.2 nozzle for anything except really fine streaking or weathering. For the stuff we paint, it’s probably unnecessarily fine.
 

stillp

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Two comments Tim, if I may. I don't like the brushes that are sold for cleaning airbrushes as the twisted steel wire in the middle is likely to cause damage. I prefer to use interdental brushes, which are relatively soft and cheap as chips. Second, I've used a 0,2 nozzle for various acrylics and lacquers as well as Stynylrez. I have a 0,4 nozzle as well but don't find it any better for 1/72 aircraft.
Pete
 

Tim Marlow

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Two comments Tim, if I may. I don't like the brushes that are sold for cleaning airbrushes as the twisted steel wire in the middle is likely to cause damage. I prefer to use interdental brushes, which are relatively soft and cheap as chips. Second, I've used a 0,2 nozzle for various acrylics and lacquers as well as Stynylrez. I have a 0,4 nozzle as well but don't find it any better for 1/72 aircraft.
Pete
Agree ref interdental brushes, but I only meant using the bottle brushes for the large main body pathways Pete, not the finer ones in the nozzle or air distributor parts..
As to nozzles, if the 0.4 is no better, that makes it no worse by definition. It is much less likely to block as well, so why use the finer one if you don’t have to? In my case it would be laziness, but as I only have a 0.35 in my Iwatta I don’t have to switch anything anyway.
 
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Tim Marlow

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Fair enough mate. If it works for you why mess with it…..
Ive thought for ages that there are so many paint types, so many ways to thin it for airbrushing, and so many different brands of kit to use to apply it, all various combinations of which work for someone somewhere, that it’s really a pretty bulletproof process. Saying that, we don’t half make hard work of it at times :flushed:
 

JR

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Totally agree Pete. An airbrush is basically an air tube and a paint path. The air mixes with the air as a vortex as the air goes past the paint path, and the nozzle on the end controls flow of the subsequent mix. It’s a simple idea, but the finesse of the engineering makes them as flexible and refined as they are.

Let’s try to analyse this…..if you can sort this yourself John you will not only save money, you’ll learn more about how your airbrush works…..and sort it out more quickly next time….

If you cant get air/paint out of the nozzle it must be caused by a blockage in the air/paint mix path. The blockage must be located in the body of the brush after the paint and airflow mix. If the blockage was further back in either path you would either get no air, or no paint. The paint and air paths themselves can therefore be taken as clear and working as expected.

If you are getting air back up the paint path into the paint cup then the blockage has occurred after the paint has been mixed into the airflow, and the air can only escape via the paint path.

The most likely place for the blockage is a very small crud lump in the nozzle, which is the most restricted part of the flow path. 0.2 is pretty small for general work, after all, and is better suited to inks (that have finer pigments) rather than paints. This is shown by your nozzle and needle change getting the brush back to working order.

I would definitely go with Dave’s tool cleaner suggestion. Soak all the air/paint path parts at least overnight and then scrub the large tubes out with the small bottle brushes you can get for the purpose. You can use an old nylon paintbrush to clean through the finer parts.

I would then try flushing through the nozzle with cellulose thinners using a pipette. Fill the pipette, push the pointed end of the nozzle into the pipette, and then expel the cleaning agent slowly backwards through the part using the pipette. Only clean it backwards! You don’t want to drive any blockage further in, especially if it is insoluble…..repeat this several times. Once you get easy flow through then the part is probably clean. Keep the flow slow and controlled. You want the solvent to dissolve away the blockage, not expel it by main force.

Clean the needle by drawing it through a fold of kitchen towel dampened with cleaning fluid. If the needle is dirty you will get a paint line on the paper. Repeat this until the fold stays clean.

Lastly, have a good look through the nozzle against a good light source using a jewellers loupe or such. You should be able to see light through the hole…..if you can’t, it’s probably still blocked. Repeat the processes above until you can see through it.

Lastly, I would rethink using a 0.2 nozzle for anything except really fine streaking or weathering. For the stuff we paint, it’s probably unnecessarily fine.
Thanks Tim and the others who responded.
Since then I've received a needle set from Air Brush Net, it includes the needle , tip and nozzle for the Ultra, also bought a inner seal kit.Having the tool before made the job much easier. This is now spraying perfectly.
It appears the the Neo , which had a .34 in Tim sprays to one side. This could be dirt or in fact a bent needle. Not bothered at the moment about spending yet more money for a replacement. would rather attempt to clean as you guys have shown.The Neo is now back in the drawer.
 

Scratchbuilder

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John
Had the same problem with my Neo, stripped it all down and cleaned it. Then the same issue, so stripped it down again and left it to soak in IPA in a jar (Apple Sauce type with lid) for 24 hours and then did another clean, and the gunge that came out sorted the job.
Mike.
 

stona

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I'll just add that I agree with everything said about cleaning, some kind of crud or build up is invariably the root of this sort of problem.

I use cellulose thinners as my go to cleaner, but be sure that the seals of your particular airbrush can take it. Most decent brushes can.
 
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JR

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John
Had the same problem with my Neo, stripped it all down and cleaned it. Then the same issue, so stripped it down again and left it to soak in IPA in a jar (Apple Sauce type with lid) for 24 hours and then did another clean, and the gunge that came out sorted the job.
Mike.
I'll just add that I agree with everything said about cleaning, some kind of crud or build up is invariably the root of this sort of problem.

I use cellulose thinners as my go to cleaner, but be sure that the seals of your particular airbrush can take it. Most decent brushes can.
Have plenty of IPA will give that a try, either that or it will be

iu
 
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