Newbie dumb paint choice question
- Thread starter Stubod
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- Ron
Poor Stu.
When he reads the last few posts, he will probably feel awful.
I suspect, being a newcomer, he might not have realised this forum had a shop.
When he reads the last few posts, he will probably feel awful.
I suspect, being a newcomer, he might not have realised this forum had a shop.
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- Jakko
Annoyingly, Tamiya don’t appear to list these themselves anywhere that I’ve ever seen, and in their newer kits they even just give the aerosol can number without also providing the number for the equivalent paint in a glass jar
...yep feeling pretty crap now....not noticed the forum has a shop!!.....since lockdown use Amazon for pretty much everything, except the weekly Tesco online shop, (and Tesco don't do models...).
..currently saying a few hail Mary's as penance.....will use the shop in future, (assuming I have one), have spent the afternoon preping the back bedroom in readiness. Already considering a ship (Bismark?) as the next project as I had one in my yuff.
If the tank goes pearshaped I will blame everybody on the forum for their advise....it will be everybodys fault but mine....
..currently saying a few hail Mary's as penance.....will use the shop in future, (assuming I have one), have spent the afternoon preping the back bedroom in readiness. Already considering a ship (Bismark?) as the next project as I had one in my yuff.
If the tank goes pearshaped I will blame everybody on the forum for their advise....it will be everybodys fault but mine....
Last edited:
D
Deleted member 5496
Guest
I would first retire Tamiya as it really is a very nice paint giving a good finish. But only for airbrushing as it dries to quickly for hand brushing.
I would go for Vallejo Model Air. Designed for airbrushing but with a bit of technique does work well for hand brushing.
With hand brushing I would use their Vallejo Flow. This reduces the cure time while hand brushing & gives a much better finish. Do not use Vallejo thinner as this will enhance the drying time which you do not want with hand brushing.
http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php?manufacturers_id=8. This is a good conversion chart.
I used to get hung up about colours. Now I look at pictures & choose which ever seems to represent. If you take a pristine aircraft or armour vehicle the colour will be perfect but when used in theatre the colours are degraded by use & also the enviroment they are used in.
So you have a wide diversity. On top of that washes to weather etc again chainge the colour content. It is in fact your choice & that, for me, is where the artistic part of model making creeps in.
Laurie
I would go for Vallejo Model Air. Designed for airbrushing but with a bit of technique does work well for hand brushing.
With hand brushing I would use their Vallejo Flow. This reduces the cure time while hand brushing & gives a much better finish. Do not use Vallejo thinner as this will enhance the drying time which you do not want with hand brushing.
http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php?manufacturers_id=8. This is a good conversion chart.
I used to get hung up about colours. Now I look at pictures & choose which ever seems to represent. If you take a pristine aircraft or armour vehicle the colour will be perfect but when used in theatre the colours are degraded by use & also the enviroment they are used in.
So you have a wide diversity. On top of that washes to weather etc again chainge the colour content. It is in fact your choice & that, for me, is where the artistic part of model making creeps in.
Laurie
rtfoe
SMF Supporter
Hi Stu, I don't think I'll be much help since switching to an airbrush some 40 odd years ago.
For armour I use base colors like olive drab, German grey, dark yellow, desert yellow, brown and pea green over a primer of either white, black or brown. It covers large areas faster than a paint brush and I'm too lazy to wait for coats to dry and afraid to agitate the previous layer brushing on the next layer. You see with an airbrush the paint is laid on top in a blanket style. Also the solvents used dry quickly. If I brush paint, cobwebs would have formed on my kits already as most know I work at a snails pace.
However I will use a paintbrush for detail painting and weathering. Specific colors here are not necessary because I mix from a set of primary colors to get the shade I need. I use any form of medium but must remember what solvent or thinning liquid is required for each application. Lately Vallejo or AK is what I use, oils was my previous but now and then I will mix to get the effects I need.
Spend time experimenting with the different mediums as they produce great results when used altogether. Or you can find a medium you are comfortable with and stick with it. If anything goes wrong just re-do it. I realised early on when breaking a part it was no use fuming over it as the kit was in pieces in the first place...just stick it back.
Cheers,
Richard
PS: All suggestions above has been given freely and I will not be held responsible for any mishaps that should occur while executing the hobby.
For armour I use base colors like olive drab, German grey, dark yellow, desert yellow, brown and pea green over a primer of either white, black or brown. It covers large areas faster than a paint brush and I'm too lazy to wait for coats to dry and afraid to agitate the previous layer brushing on the next layer. You see with an airbrush the paint is laid on top in a blanket style. Also the solvents used dry quickly. If I brush paint, cobwebs would have formed on my kits already as most know I work at a snails pace.
However I will use a paintbrush for detail painting and weathering. Specific colors here are not necessary because I mix from a set of primary colors to get the shade I need. I use any form of medium but must remember what solvent or thinning liquid is required for each application. Lately Vallejo or AK is what I use, oils was my previous but now and then I will mix to get the effects I need.
Spend time experimenting with the different mediums as they produce great results when used altogether. Or you can find a medium you are comfortable with and stick with it. If anything goes wrong just re-do it. I realised early on when breaking a part it was no use fuming over it as the kit was in pieces in the first place...just stick it back.
Cheers,
Richard
PS: All suggestions above has been given freely and I will not be held responsible for any mishaps that should occur while executing the hobby.